被叫先生的男孩與凌冽北歐
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在 法羅 開車對於認不 清道 路的人來說特別的友好,因為所有通向人類居住較為密集村鎮的道路,只有一條,僅有托爾斯港擁有向內延伸的三條公路之外,其餘地方都是一條主路,即使不開導航,只看路牌都是可以順利到達的。
有一條跨海底隧道從Vagar島通往Streymoy島,往返一次收費100克朗,但由於Gin的牌照和車主都來自Streymoy,每趟能夠減免一半,僅收50克朗。
每次通過這條隧道都會讓我產生恐懼,尤其碰到前後視線里沒有其餘車輛的時候,隧道兩旁由亂石堆砌,頂端安裝了供照明用的LED燈,但是隧道在海底呈一個“U”字型,也就是進入隧道後一路往海底行駛,車燈打在兩邊亂石上會出現灰褐色的反光,前方是一條看不到盡頭的洞穴隧道,並且隨著越走越深,耳膜的壓強變得越來越大,伴隨著一大段時間的輕微聽力失真,才慢慢向上爬行,直到看到遠方的亮光處。
走出隧道的一剎那我們都長舒一口氣,不知道Gin此時是啥心情,從長時間的陰暗中走入了曠世的風景里,我覺得像是經歷了從地獄到天堂的過程。
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雙車道對於 法羅 來說是很奢侈的,大多數路程中多以繞山為主,所以雙車道只存在於地勢比較平坦的地區,靠海的一側每隔幾百米會有一個臨時停靠點,可以隨時在這裡停車,並欣賞風景。
在路程的一半過後,奢侈的雙車道變為了單車道,只是雙側都修築了停靠點,剛開始行駛時有點不習慣,漸漸地已經能夠像當地人一樣在會車時讓車了。
我本身開車比較慢,再加上Gin的動力比較現實,所以不論前方會車還是後方有速度更快的車輛,我基本都是第一時間避讓。
Funningur的存在令周邊的海洋和峭壁都增色了不少,我們到來時,只看見村裡一個中年人帶著他兩歲的兒子和他的貓在草坪上踢球,我們走近時,他熱情地主動向我們打招呼。
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![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s14/M00/7E/AD/wKgE2l1hSRqAEtHWAAj6mKFaNBs654.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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他的妻子是 菲律賓 人,所以他的小兒子眉眼之間多少帶著點東方味道。小6喜歡小孩,就一直在陪他踢球,馬格努森則跟我善意地展示他天賦滿滿的聊天技能,當說到這裡的天氣,以及今天氣溫極低時,馬格努森突然抬起胳膊,大笑著像天空展示他的肌肉,並詼諧地對天空喊到“We are in Summer!”。
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幾個警察途徑此地,閑來無事拿起相機拍鴨子,在 法羅群島 做一名警察似乎也是一件非常無聊的事,整個國家安全的像一家人,所有車輛都不上鎖,無論車內放置什麼樣的貴重物品,都不會有另一隻手伸向他們,甚至車主離開後,車鑰匙也一併留在車內。
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s14/M00/7F/9D/wKgE2l1hSW-AOj8VAAgv_nLtT00640.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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Gjogv的規模更大,甚至可以說這裡是整個國家最美的一個小鎮了,溪水蜿蜒著流淌,與主路並行,在這裡有許多青旅和民俗,以及商店咖啡館,海浪拍打岸邊的聲音甚至能夠清晰地傳到村子里。
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s14/M00/80/44/wKgE2l1hSaKAH9SZAAkK5tIyBas362.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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Gjogv的西邊有一條並不出名的徒步線路,依舊是私人領地,我們往木箱子里投了兩個人的徒步費用,一路向上攀爬。但我們偷了個懶,基本只走了半個小時便返回了Gjogv。
Gjogv在當地語言里是峽灣的意思,這裡有一處有名的落差極大的峽灣,峽灣下麵是古老的碼頭,自維京時代開始,漁民們就開始依靠這裡出海和返航。
這裡的綠色頂棚教堂至少從外觀上根本看不出他已經有一百年曆史,在他建造之前,Gjogv當地的村民都只能走到戈壁的Funningur去禱告。
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