釜山、慶州、大邱——五年簽韓國第一站(老游記搬遷馬蜂窩,2016年)
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海印寺:躲過美軍轟炸的八萬大藏經 海印寺在地理位置上屬於 慶尚南道 ,其所在山區是一個道立公園。不過海印寺周圍的 大城 市最主要的就是 大邱 ,而且從 大邱 有直達車。
海印寺是 韓國 第一批世界遺產,1995年入選,和佛國寺與石窟庵同一年,這一年入選的還有位於 首爾 的宗廟。但海印寺不是普通的寺廟,這座寺廟的價值主要在於其收藏的完整的高麗大藏經,共計80000多塊木刻經板。由於極重要的文獻價值,2007年,高麗大藏經又入選了聯合國世界記憶文獻遺產。 韓國 還真是一個熱衷申遺的國家。
存放大藏經的是一組四合院式的經庫,建於15世紀,位於海印寺最高處的臺地上。經板轉移儲存至此地後就再也沒有移動過。經庫的四座建築並不聯通圍合,而是互相獨立的,有各自的地基。正面和後面兩座單體建築開間很闊,寬達幾十米,兩側則是兩棟相對較小的屋子,兩開間寬數米,共同圍出一個長方形的院子。經庫建築全純木結構,單層,牆面下部有柵欄式樣的透窗,始終開通,儲存經板的空間完全接近自然狀態,只是沒有雨雪入侵。 韓國 政府曾建造過恆溫恆濕的實驗性館舍試圖轉移保存經板,結果經板反而出現了發黴現象,只能放棄嘗試讓大藏經繼續留在海印寺。經庫內部是不允許游客進入的,只能從正門或透窗里一窺經板的儲藏方式:密密麻麻擱在多層的木架子上。經庫外有個小櫥窗展示了兩塊雕板樣品,一塊是純文字的心經,一塊是有圖樣的。如果願意花錢,還可以買張拓片回去。此外還有兩面很大的照片牆,這是供游客留影,彌補不能進室內之遺憾的。離海印寺不遠處的山腳下,有一個海印寺博物館,裡面展示了較多的經板以及不少海印寺的文物,也可以付費拓一張心經帶回家。這裡也展示了木板雕刻印刷的全過程,但對 中國 人來說並不陌生。
現存的高麗大藏經是13世紀高麗末年(相當於元代)復刻的,目的是祈望通過此舉扭轉 蒙古 人的入侵,當然目的並沒有達到,但給後人留下了一部厚重文獻。此前,高麗王朝曾兩次刻印大藏經,目的類似——祈望扭轉契丹人的入侵。高麗大藏經的母本是宋代刻印的大藏經《開寶藏》,補充了一些高麗和契丹的經藏。現在來看,13世紀的完整雕版,可能是保存至今的最早最完整的大藏經了,畢竟宋代的大藏經連紙本都所剩無幾。值得一提的是,高麗大藏經完全是中文文獻, 韓國 近年來推行去漢字化,固然能強化自身的民族獨立性,但對歷史文化的傳承研究,無疑也多了一層障礙,祖先的書籍如今只能靠翻譯才能閱讀了。
高麗大藏經遷移至此地後,海印寺曾遭遇多次火災,但經庫均安然無恙。韓戰時期,海印寺有游擊隊駐扎,聯合國方曾下令轟炸,但執行任務的軍官違背軍令,僅僅掃射敷衍。這位軍官的相片如今陳列在道立公園山道一側。
Tips: 大邱 地鐵一號線到聖堂池站,出站後到 大邱 西部客運站有長途車直達海印寺,窗口買票,下車的地方是一個有旅游服務的小山村,沿指示到寺里大概還要走1公里多。海印寺無須門票,捐贈入內參觀,海印寺博物館2000韓元好像,周一閉館。
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