去往『貝加爾湖』的無盡之境,抵達漫長歲月前的『北海北』
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/18/CB/wKgBEFrHZlyAR-qoAA8dCjlMUjg55.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
旅館在早上9點才開始供應早餐,10點才準備出發去往北線一日游。在 俄羅斯 的七天,沒有一天有過早起的困擾。
果醬薄餅、兩顆煎蛋加國內帶來的榨菜,再加一盒 俄羅斯 水果酸奶,成為在胡日爾村每天早餐的標配。
附加一句,在 俄羅斯 什麼最好吃?酸奶。從便利店買來各種口味的酸奶,無一踩雷。
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/2B/AD/wKgBEFrHdT-AFtJYAA4suGm3FCs35.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/29/5E/wKgBEFrHc0-AKOrpAAtzDROippM83.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
不過,眼睛享受美景的同時,身體就莫在奢求舒適了。
曲折而顛簸、甚至有點危險的路途,加上內設簡陋的 俄羅斯 麵包越野車,讓車程的舒適度化為0。
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/24/A5/wKgBEFrHb8aAImTNAA5Bp_UwVhk24.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/31/72/wKgBEFrHebWAKbBTAA1PiY3lVEg48.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/2B/F4/wKgBEFrHdW2AdT1cAAgq1uQRuAs70.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
遠遠望去,逆光下的冰掛晶瑩剔透,折射著耀眼的小光圈。
司機會適時選擇停靠,我們便可以下車走近冰柱,甚至走進冰洞。
離得越近,效果越震撼。頭頂懸掛著鋒利的冰錐,腳底踩著堅硬的冰塊,通往西伯利亞深處的秘密。
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/33/7D/wKgBEFrHe1OAGiA-ABettDYVnS402.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/16/38/wKgBEFrHY8uAD9FNAAmdlaXqksM37.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/2A/2A/wKgBEFrHc9OABsMEAAbJThdjo-875.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
在數月內都保持著生前最後的狀態,直到第二年春季湖水解凍後沉入湖底。
關於百年前西伯利亞 “死亡遷徙”的傳說,誰知真假。
但逃亡於雪窖冰天的 貝加爾湖 ,的確要靠一場看似迷茫的運氣。
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/41/83/wKgBEFrHhoaAFtoSAAc594aZ-j470.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/2A/2D/wKgBEFrHc9WALJXDACKgsM0EWjY42.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://n4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/41/80/wKgBEFrHhoSAavfEAAoK0nQbwIc49.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
晝夜溫差導致湖水的壓縮與膨脹,才雕刻出這神奇的景觀,賦予了大自然如此的魔力。
各不相同的紋路把每一條裂痕都變成了一件藝術品,在湖面蔓延開來。
廣闊的冰面,游走的流雪,如同一幅畫捲鋪開在這冰封的世界。
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/18/33/wKgBEFrHZcOAQTPDABaRA58Uoko73.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/32/45/wKgBEFrHemKAYy1KAAzeAC_e8WY77.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/2F/D0/wKgBEFrHeGeADZS6AAtIim3dEdA32.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/19/25/wKgBEFrHZr-AI1YFAAqGqzUsAMk78.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
縱然雙腳難以到達那遠方,可雙眼能夠記錄此刻的美好也是多麼難得。
看著這晶瑩剔透的冰面,就可以想象冰封下的湖水有多麼清澈透亮。
待春光灑滿時,厚厚的冰層崩裂,化為輕柔的湖水,那才是李健歌聲里的 貝加爾湖 吧。
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/33/A8/wKgBEFrHe3OAJwV2ABCNLj5Uj2079.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/18/2F/wKgBEFrHZcCADcqsABFh4NjD72c82.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/15/DF/wKgBEFrHY2yAVVYAAAbpvnbnQ_g84.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/32/92/wKgBEFrHeo6AWxsbAA2zenKvbOI20.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
因為已經有足夠的心理準備,這頓飯吃得還挺愉快,在冰天雪地的無人之境,能有一口熱茶已然值得感恩,不是嗎?
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/42/03/wKgBEFrHhuSAOmqzAAplhEBcZXs44.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/18/8A/wKgBEFrHZhaAOybEABi-zRAlAbE38.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/3B/77/wKgBEFrHgVOAbBM8AAu65jSMH1Y16.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
車子一停,瘋跑下去就是埋頭苦找,結果並不遂願,根本不是想象中的氣泡冰,偶然發現的也只是零星一兩個小泡泡,不足為奇。
就在我們已經放棄尋找的時候,看到車窗外的冰面上三五成群地趴滿了人。看來,是氣泡冰!
沒有雪覆蓋的冰面很滑,心急卻只能小心挪著步子,去找尋一片又一片的氣泡冰。
湖水被凍結成冰時,湖底沉積物釋放的氣體中一部分因逃逸失敗而被囚禁於其中,於是形成了氣泡冰這樣的奇景。
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/16/C5/wKgBEFrHZFCAYg3VABP2VCO0Ovo20.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/16/C1/wKgBEFrHZE2AEpjJAA0weAp_3zc98.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/15/55/wKgBEFrHYvCAGwl5ABBUc9RpaEs46.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/15/4D/wKgBEFrHYuWAatnhABGw0V8NPQw42.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/15/51/wKgBEFrHYuuAF_xpABUzzoRcjsU05.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
可若不是這樣,又有誰能留得住那轉瞬即逝的冰潔容顏。
俯下身子,急不可待地貼向冰面,看著無數渴望冒出湖面的泡泡被凝固在冰層的另一面,可憐又可愛,仿若一個遍佈藍色星球的銀河系就在眼前。
![貝加爾湖自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/15/63/wKgBEFrHYvuAPmHlABBOeLyQ4oM28.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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