緣聚眾神環抱的凈土,尼泊爾飛梵之旅
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走進一家唐卡店,別看這裡人這麼多,可大家都在忙著念經,來店里逛的只有我一個,老闆很熱情地過來招呼我,知道我是 北京 來的客人,竟然開始用中文介紹起唐卡來,親切熱情,見我喜歡還讓我拍照。
下麵這張圖中,深藍色的不知道是神還是什麼,代表時間,懷抱圓盤中代表天道、阿修羅道、人道、畜生道、惡鬼道、地獄道,六道輪迴。
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來 加德滿都 ,我很想親眼見見傳說中的活女神——庫瑪麗,據說她是力量女神的化身,也是 加德滿都 的守護神,小女神必須是處女,來自釋迦族,有著釋迦摩尼後人的血統,從兩三歲時,通過32條標準,才能被祭司選中,這32條規定相當嚴苛, 比如 要從沒流過血,從沒生過病,出生時的星象要吉祥,頸項如海螺殼光滑,身體像榕樹挺拔,睫毛如母牛濃密,腿如小鹿健美,前胸像 獅子 ,說話聲如鴨子般響亮……總之,小女神必須健康,而且是個標準的小美女才行。
當上了女神從此雙腳就不能占地了,出門要有人抬著,不過出門的機會也只有因陀羅節的第三天,女神在守護神加奈斯和拜拉布的陪同下乘高大木輪車巡游全城供人們膜拜,平時她只能獨守在寺廟中,不能像其他女孩子一樣上學,玩耍,也不能被人碰到,女神要絕對的純潔。
不光是要純潔,還要相當鎮定,不能輕易流露出情感,從選拔女神的時候,就要求小姑娘面對奇怪大叔的凶悍表情毫無懼色才能入選,當上女神後,她便要無悲無喜。在接受信徒參拜時,如果她微笑、說話或動作,信徒都會認為預示不詳。所以能看到網上庫瑪麗女神的照片,都是一張美麗精緻的撲克臉,這樣才最吉利。(下圖來源於網絡)
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“庫瑪麗”在梵語和 尼泊爾 語里是處女的意思,小女神自女孩子時被選中,直到月經初潮任期結束,再由新選的女孩接任。我們來得真是太不湊巧,也是太湊巧了,本屆9歲的小女神來大姨媽了,剛纔的“看門大爺”就是她爸,所以她現在“不潔”了,不是女神了,所以不能再見人,新的女神要下周才上任。
咔嚓一個雷在我腦子裡響起,怎麼這麼巧的事都能讓我趕上?!註定和女神無緣相見了。
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當然,那是不可能的。
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樓下的環境讓我震驚,太普通了,不,應該說是太簡陋了,退了牆皮的牆上只有一張曬得發白的女神照片,看不到真人只能看看照片了,真是個漂亮姑娘,可她是女神?!供人朝拜的神!怎麼住成這樣?不是 印度 教嗎?女神照片旁邊還有個大肚 彌勒 佛?寫著“笑口常開”?我腦子裡有些凌亂,心說真是個混搭的房間。地上有些小孩子的玩具,呼啦圈和皮球,不知道是不是女神平時能玩的?
雖然很遺憾不能相見,可我突然覺得為這個姑娘慶幸,她不再是女神了,可以過普通女孩的日子了,可以有小伙伴,也可以笑,可以玩了,9歲,還不晚,正好是上學的年紀,從此她就自由了。祝福她,願她今後人生都笑口常開。
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從 加德滿都 到這隻有200多公里的距離,開車沿山路顛簸卻要7、8個小時,我們一早出發,到了落腳的酒店,已經是傍晚時分,趁著太陽還沒落山,大家決定溜達去納拉亞尼河Narayani River邊欣賞夕陽。
走出酒店,就看到一片花開得正好的油菜花田,四周雞鳴狗吠,一片自然田園風。
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