極夜繼行 | 挪威森與嶺
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極夜的確是摧殘駕駛員的。所以,如果我以後還要在極夜中連續數小時駕駛,我一定會多準備點紅牛和蹦迪歌曲,來保持興奮狀態。
其實本打算去 羅弗敦群島 這一程一邊開車一邊欣賞風景,但開到後半段,天已經完全黑沉下來,什麼也看不著,也不敢看,因為後半程公路大部分既靠山又靠海,不敢分心,生怕掉進海裡去。
\- “距離目的地還有40km,大約還需要42分鐘。”
聽到這句話的我,眼淚掉下來。
不久,遠處的雪山夾縫中開始出現絲絲燈光,繞開前面幾座雪山後,燈光再次出現,由遠漸近,我們終於駛出了黑暗,順利到達了雷訥。
大部分人,如果提前做過功課,在雷訥應該會想住靠海的紅色小木屋,但我們這次並沒有選擇。首先,小木屋需求很大,需要提前很早預訂,其次我覺得小木屋價格偏虛高,內部設施可能也比較陳舊。所以,我們選擇了僅僅距離海邊小木屋幾米後的公寓民宿,叫做May's Apartment,梅姨的公寓。相比小木屋,公寓的房間就顯得十分寬敞明亮,帶陽臺的視野很好,屋內設施很新,價格也低不少。
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衛生間里的洗浴用品也很很有品位,全部選用的是 荷蘭 小眾品牌RITUALS的。
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決定今晚不出門的我們,以黃黃做的香噴噴的紅燒雞腿麵結束了今日行程。
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雖然我們住在雷訥,但我們計劃今天先去附近不遠的奧鎮,所以雷訥的照片會放在後面。
出發時,在車後的雪地里找到了昨天意外走丟的半隻手套,一夜洗禮,它已經凍成了“鐵”手套。
從雷訥出發,開車再沿E10公路往前走約十五分鐘就是奧鎮。
奧鎮, 挪威 語原名為Å i Lofoten,“Å”音譯為“奧”,是“小河”的意思。這裡其實不是 挪威 唯一的奧鎮, 挪威 境內就有近十個叫做Å的小鎮,另外在 丹麥 、 瑞典 也有,所以,通常會加後綴i Lofoten,來表示這是羅浮敦群島上的奧鎮。不知道為什麼,奧鎮這個名字讓我總覺得這是Pokemon裡面的某個鎮子。
奧鎮是一個很小的村莊,但來這裡的看點並不少。首先,它是“奧拉夫五世國王公路”E10公路的終點(沒錯,E10公路的 挪威 段就叫奧拉夫五世國王公路 King Olav V's Road, 挪威 公路的名字都比較有氣勢,名如其表嘛),所以這個村也算是一個很有紀念意義的地標了。其次,奧鎮還有一個 挪威 漁村博物館,以及周邊也有著很多條規劃好的徒步路線,夏天沿著海岸線徒步,非常的舒服(推薦《Hiking the Lofoten Islands》這本書作為徒步參考, 歐洲 亞馬遜商城有售)。最後,這裡還有一家擁有150多年曆史的麵包店,他們的肉桂捲可是享譽全 歐洲 。
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喜歡這張,如電影鏡頭一般。
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