去你的,天竺。(更新中)
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向小樂確認了夜祭開始時間是晚上七點一刻,便在酒店點了餐。還沒等餐食上桌,突然間就下暴雨了,沒錯,是暴雨。服務生幾乎找不到一塊完全淋不到雨的地兒擺下餐桌,最後,我們一邊就著 印度 雨神的恩賜,一邊從容享受了這與眾不同的晚餐(桌子有三分之一露在外面)。。。 天色已晚,擔心來不及,想走捷徑去到夜祭的地方,小樂的員工表示願意親自帶路(後來居然小費也沒要,絕對是 印度 人當中的一股清流)。由於剛下了一場暴雨,老城裡根本沒有排水系統,剛跨出酒店,發現水漫 金山 了!髒水直接蓋過了小腿的一半,明顯能看到一些類似塑料袋的漂浮物,超級噁心。可是又能怎麼辦呢,潔癖TMD就在第一天被治好了,我們決定閉著眼睛忍著髒水踩到馬路對面去,那邊淹得較淺。跟著小黑走了約15分鐘,他帶我們到了一個平臺,俯瞰下去,一排鐵架,像烤全羊一樣的,這是燒屍廟!可愛的人啊,居然誤解我們的意思了,帶我們來了燒屍廟,還很得意的介紹這可是觀看燒屍的最佳地點。怪不得剛剛他和某個當地人說了幾句,才放行讓我們進來。這真是意外的驚喜! 但夜祭馬上就要開始了,我們逗留了幾分鐘,馬不停蹄的往不遠處夜祭的主碼頭衝去。
夜祭是 恆河 邊雷打不動的保留項目,已經延續了2000多年,每晚1小時。六名婆羅門祭司一字排開,面向 恆河 ,伴隨著經文音樂,以器具執行著神聖的儀式。我不覺得這是一場秀,整個過程充滿了神秘感與能量感。
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今日行程:早上七點看 恆河 晨浴,八點到火車站,乘坐到 阿格拉 的火車。延誤三小時,晚上11點半到達 阿格拉 ,休息。
交通工具:突突車、火車、出租車
住宿:嘉華旅館 HOTEL RAJNI GUEST HOUSE
景點: 恆河 晨浴 TIP1:晨浴每天早晨六點多開始,可以在6點半至七點乘坐一小時的小船看 恆河 日出,1500盧比一艘船,單人約150-200盧比。註意,在心理預設一個價格和你遇到的第一個船夫直接談好,不要試圖和不同的船夫講價,他們都隨時串通好的,非常狡猾。
TIP2: 印度 的火車站有時候會標錯站台,建議拿著車票確認單在進站口的屏幕上對照一下車次和站台。我們就差一點上錯車,票上寫的4站台,實際上是5站台。
TIP3: 阿格拉 不能用Uber,半夜從火車站到酒店一輛小轎車約500盧比。晚上不建議坐突突。
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粉色小船夫是個打工仔,他的老闆負責收錢。所以他本人話語是不多了,我們自然也不給小費了,哈哈。
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