“摩”幻北非——摩洛哥半月談
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整裝結束,先在小廣場的銀行換了匯率上佳的迪拉姆,再步行出發前往清真寺。Xu帶著我們倆穿過了麥地那,緊趕慢趕,畢竟是周五穆斯林的禮拜日,擔心錯過下午四點那一場就再無機會入殿參觀,走了十多分鐘,終於趕在四點前步入清真寺地下一層的售票點,此行最貴的一張門票就出自於此。
等候講解員的短短空檔,就已被這座清真寺的大氣磅礴震撼,這一座世間唯一建在海邊的清真寺,只緣於國王哈桑二世的一個夢,夢 中國 王獲得安拉的真言“真主的寶座應建於水上”,醒來的國王興舉國之力,化為一束光,將夢想照進現實。
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作為世界第三大清真寺,由360度無死角的彩色 馬賽 克和 大理 石雕花打造而成,牆面 馬賽 克鑲嵌到柱體石膏裝飾都極盡華美精細之能事,主色調綠色和米白色相輔相成,可同時容納10萬人做禮拜。清真寺被浩瀚的大西洋海水溫柔環抱,以大海為背景,寓意著 摩洛哥 的阿拉伯人祖先自海上而來,如遇海上起霧,那清真寺便如海市蜃樓,如夢似幻。建築是凝固的詩,那麼這一首無疑是信徒獻給真主最夢幻的詩篇。
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殿內昏暗,地板光滑,花窗外的光透進來,將花窗映在地板上,產生水波倒影的奇觀,至此才覺得這一張門票值回了票價,只為這一抹剪影。
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殿內面積很大,雕梁畫棟,巨大的水晶吊燈投射下來的光由於高挑的主梁仍顯得微弱,寧靜而神秘。由於伊斯蘭教禁止偶像崇拜,殿內未供奉任何雕像、畫像和供品,只有圍繞的一根根巨型廊柱,抬頭望見上方的木雕,精緻典雅,事後才知竟是兩扇活動屋頂,只要按動電鈕,頂部就會自動開啟,難以想象禮拜日的夜晚,當璀璨的星光傾瀉而下,落在虔誠祈禱的穆斯林肩上,那該是一幅如何令人震撼的畫捲。
一切精神文化,都需要物態的載體,無疑,這是一座充滿了誠意的伊斯蘭文明的載體。
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然而,設計師是非穆斯林的 法國 人,多少帶了點 歐洲 大教堂的影子,處處可見奢華的堆砌,幸而,這麼華麗的存在得以向眾多非穆斯林開放,這種允許是難能可貴的。
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全程參觀約40分鐘,有法語、 西班牙 語、阿拉伯語或英語講解員,能候著哪一場全憑運氣,只不過中間留給游人自由拍照的時間只有不足五分鐘,我們這三個“叛逆分子”逮著空就見縫插針地拍照,連我們的講解員講的是哪國語言都沒註意。
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走遠幾步,是圍繞著清真寺而修建的堤壩,傳來一片歡聲笑語,年輕人打著赤膊在海邊嬉戲,其中也不乏一家三口悠閑得漫著步。