檳城 | 旅行新定義:專屬這座城的色彩情緒
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那個場景十分值得回味,好像把50年代的 香港 放到密封袋里保存起來,帶著上個世紀的古樸和生機,扔到這座小城,讓他們在這裡生根一樣。
這裡的煙火氣是帶有點年代的煙火氣,時間在這裡自有一套運行的原理。
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![檳城自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/E3/51/CoUBGV2xRK6AeLqfABEe8KjZ9SI243.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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![檳城自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/F3/C4/CoUBGV2xSXmAFKopAA6KoBmqjTo687.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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![檳城自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/F3/CF/CoUBGV2xSX6ASYIpAAy-mZNNznI068.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
語氣溫和但是十分固執地同我們說:“這個真的好吃的,不嘗一下會很後悔的。”或者說:“這是我們家招牌啦,你一定要點啦。再或者,像吃 海南 雞飯的那家老闆乾脆說:”我把所有好吃的都給你們切一點吧,不用菜單啦。“我們於是任由擺佈地等待著,等待著不知道怎樣的菜餚會被擺上飯桌。
但的確,從來沒有什麼讓我們失望的菜品,老闆在旁邊沾沾自喜地笑著,問我們:”好吃吧?“我們只好誠實地點點頭,或者因為沉溺於美食,而抬不起頭。
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我們點了面吃,他們就在旁邊有一搭沒一搭地和我們聊天。兩人國語不算很好,許多我們說的話,他們也一知半解,只是始終笑著,大力地點頭。
我問:“你們的店剛開啊?”
老闆自豪地點點頭,說:“剛買下的店鋪,以前是個小攤。”
老闆娘也承接地說:“是的。我們叫”緣記“。真不好意思,牌子還沒掛上去。”
我笑著擺擺手,說:“這有什麼關係嘛。哪個”源“呢?”我以為大抵是姓袁的一家人,誰料老闆娘組織了一下語言,慢吞吞但是認真地說:“是”緣分“的”緣“。來這裡吃飯,是緣分。”
她的聲音很輕,很甜,像六月份的小溪水打在光滑的石頭上一樣。 人間食客檳城 的美食文化吸引了絡繹不絕的食客到此參觀,一飽口福。這些食客,時聚時散,三人成對,五人成群地坐在迴廊的餐桌上,或者是形單影隻地躲在角落裡。他們因 檳城 的美食慕名而來,卻不小心成為瞭如我一樣的游客眼中的 檳城 一景。頗有些你在橋上看風景,我在窗前看你的韻味了。
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![檳城自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/F3/AF/CoUBGV2xSXGANn-VAAsawjNmHh0226.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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毫無防備的,身後用粵語聊著閑天兒的老頭突然轉用國語,問我:“小姐你這樣坐會不會很辛苦啊?要不把椅子放下來吧,待會吃東西也不方便啦。“
趁我還沒太反應過來之前,他起身,幫我把椅子放好,高興地說:“你看這樣,就不辛苦啦。”
我笑著道謝,他也友好地對我點點頭。
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老頭又幽靈似的突然出現了,說:“哎呀不是這麼吃的啊小姐。這個雞蛋要全裹在麵包上才可以的啊。”說著,他從餐桌上掏出一個乾凈的刀叉,得到我們的允許後,幫我們攪拌起來,讓每一塊麵包都蘸上雞蛋液,接著熟練地抹一把 伽耶 醬,舉到我面前,說:“這樣才是真的美味。我們 檳城 的麵包特別好吃。”
我們咬下一口,連連贊賞,老頭才總算放下心來,重新躲回他從前聊天的陰影中去。
![檳城自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/F3/BB/CoUBGV2xSXWAGW2MAAlhjKtZ-2Y284.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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我聳聳肩表示不知道,心想著,這些食客有著小精靈般的可愛與魔力,大概說他們多長了眼睛和嘴巴也不足為奇了。 紙醉金迷檳城 的娘惹博物館是我們難得的去的另一個景點。它是 檳城 專屬的綠房子。實際上還有另一個景點建築,稱為藍房子,也就是張居正故居,但是似乎只能跟著導游一趟一趟地進去,因而捨棄了。選擇娘惹博物館,與其說被它獨一無二的景色吸引,不如說是被其內外的反差和其中的故事吸引。
娘惹博物館的外觀被粉刷成青色,頗有點蒂凡尼藍的氣質,但實際上更接近青綠色。像一塊透徹的青翠寶石蒙上一層無關痛癢的灰塵。那是一種典型的屬於 檳城 街區的顏色——總帶有一點屬於夢境的甜度。
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