【嘗一口乞力馬扎羅的雪 畫一幕東非大草原的魅】附超詳登山攻略 游獵指南 DIY旅行畫冊
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登山時間7小時
行走距離5公里
海拔上升1312米
從山頂(5985米)回到Barafu營地(4673米)再繼續下行到Mweka Camp(3069米)
下山時間10小時
行走距離10公里
海拔下降2916米
從前一夜十點說起,大家整裝待發,把所有禦寒的衣物統統穿上,我上裝五件(速乾保暖+輕薄羽絨+兩件抓絨+軟殼衝鋒)下裝四件(速乾保暖+抓絨+軟殼衝鋒+硬殼衝鋒,另加防雪綁腿)襪子兩雙(smartwool的,有雙最厚的據說可以去南極用)帽子兩頂(薄+羊毛厚)、手套三雙(露指+抓絨+滑雪)……把它們一件件套在身上就花了足足一個小時,然後呢……我幾乎動彈不得!最後又減去了一條褲子、綁腿、一頂帽子、一雙手套、一雙襪子……
除了我們四人外,兩個嚮導和一個營地主管,一組七人就是最終的登頂陣容。出發前Viviano將大家團抱在一起,關掉頭燈,用斯瓦西里語念了一段禱告詞,那種對大自然的敬畏之心猶然而生!我又一次熱淚盈眶(MD,隨時都在熱淚盈眶)接著所有人打開頭燈、背上行囊、拿起手帳,正式出發(11:40pm,比預計時間已晚了40分鐘)
從一開始就是一段沒有盡頭的斜坡,角度很陡(20-45度之間),因為高海拔+寒冷,每一步都是舉步維艱,Viviano走在最前,像第一天那樣,邁著緩慢而有節奏的步子,讓我們跟著他polepole(慢慢)挪步……
登頂的隊伍一路有很多,多的一組二三十人,走著走著,我們就在一片沒有盡頭的的斜坡上連成了一串串斷斷續續的閃著夜光的珠簾,與蒼穹中千百萬顆璀璨的繁星連成一片……
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隨著海拔的提升,大家呼吸愈發急促,Viviano和Aden是空手出發的,他們讓大家把背包都給他們,減輕我們的負重,其他三人立馬卸下行囊,我卻說I want to by myself!(說完就想打自己一耳光!)MD,繼續上路,我試著努力調整呼吸,把所有的意念都集中在邁步和呼吸上,感覺極限在一點點向自己逼近……
寒風刺骨,手指已凍得麻木,路邊開始出現積雪(確切地說是冰)。我很想拍下遇見的第一攤 乞力馬扎羅 的雪,只是想想罷了,根本沒多餘的力氣去脫手套摸手機。在整個登頂過程中有四個點可以小憩,每次都是使勁往嘴裡塞士力架,那時根本不會考慮胖不胖,想的只是活不活……
當第一次遇到路邊的垃圾,我猶豫了零點零一秒,吃力的撿起塞進背包側袋里,後來又撿了兩次,Aden勸我不要再撿,上面的停靠點會有更多,根本撿不完!我只想盡綿薄之力讓雪山更純凈一點,也希望大家知道 中國 人有丟垃圾的,也會有撿垃圾的。儘力而為吧!
漫漫長路無邊無際,從來沒有如此清晰而深刻得感受過行走的力量,積跬步,至千里,每一步都是奇跡!整整430分鐘,有太多尋常環境下絕對沒有的感受,這些感受會激發出難以想象的力量,大概這就是極限挑戰的意義,可以更加深刻得認識生命,認識自己!一想到夢想即將照進現實,我又開始激動不已,為了不打亂呼吸,我努力剋制自己的情緒。一會兒想想家人,想想朋友,想想那個原本可以跟我一起體驗這段人生極致體驗而最後沒能成行的那個她……一會兒想想這一路走來的各種奇遇和不易……一會兒想想下一站是不是該輪到勃朗峰了......一會兒又進入神游狀態……就這麼交替進行……
當到達最後一個停靠點:Stella Point,至此所有登山線路的部隊都在此匯合,稍做調整後將向最高點Uhuru Peak挺進。不知道什麼時候我們團隊的營地主管已經提前抵達這裡,為大家遞上一杯紅糖薑湯!我發誓,這是我這輩子喝過最好喝的薑湯!
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(那個熟悉的橘紅色球球從東邊地平線上緩緩升起的照片都來自於同伴手機,我當時已經完全獃住)
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