走著最佛系的路,卻有一顆貪戀美景的心~西藏阿裡行
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今天將是激動人心的一天,因為今 天等 著我們的是那至高無上的神山聖湖——【 岡仁波齊 】與【瑪旁雍措】(海拔4700米)。沿著2010年剛剛通車的 阿裡 南線的柏油公路一路前行抵達 仲巴 縣城,看得到 雅魯藏布江 的上游馬泉河。向前經過帕羊鎮(海拔5000米),這裡極具民族韻味的藏族居民。繼續向西翻過馬攸木拉山口(海拔5200米),公路左邊會出現碧藍的【公珠錯】,湖邊草地肥沃,牛羊成群。經過公珠錯之後,很快就可以看見納木那尼峰, 岡仁波齊 (Mt. Kailash)就近在咫尺了。 岡仁波齊 在藏語中意為“神靈之山”,據說佛教中最著名的 須彌山 也就是指它。渾然如金字塔的冰雪之冠,雖然不高,卻有讓人屏息的氣魄。 岡仁波齊 與它相依偎的是聖湖瑪旁雍錯和鬼湖 拉昂 錯(Lake Rakshas,海拔4700米),兩座緊緊相連卻風景迥異的姐妹湖——瑪湖波平如鏡,浩瀚湛藍,湖邊有許多轉湖的信徒(歷來朝聖者都以到瑪湖轉經洗浴為人生最大幸事);一丘之隔的鬼湖卻波濤洶涌,鬼魅異常,湖邊空無一人。其實這兩個湖本是一體,因為氣候變化湖面退縮,才變成兩個湖。
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早晨的時間自由安排,可以爬上後山的山坡靜靜等待瑪旁雍措的日出,左手邊不遠處就是神聖的 岡仁波齊 。山坡上還有一片壯觀的瑪尼石堆和經幡陣,不妨順時針繞著走三圈為自己和家人祈福。來得及還可以轉轉山坡頂上的齊烏寺。可以沿著湖邊漫步,等待【納木納尼峰】被第一縷陽光打亮。吃過早餐後離開聖湖,經過 岡仁波齊 山腳下的草原,幸運的話能見到珍稀的黑頸鶴,也可能是孤獨的野狼。此時再回望一下雄偉的 岡仁波齊 ,她將會賜於你無窮的神奇力量!沿著 盤山 公路而上,幾個小時之後到達【 札達 土林】,你的心靈將會被眼前的景色所震撼,驚異於大自然造物之神奇,這是地球嗎?猶如置身於外太空的星球,荒蕪,雄壯,不可思議的造型。一路都是壯觀的土林,傍晚到達 阿裡 腹地— 札達 縣。前往參觀【托林寺】。好好在滿天繁星的註視下睡上一覺吧。