L&P的藝術旅行|托斯卡納的藝術洗禮
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坡路見緩,便騎上車,一鼓作氣沖向 Panzano。在途中,老闆看我在去 Panzano 的路上,便給我推薦了三家餐廳(以下為推薦語):餐廳1:Antica M ace lleria Cecchini (Via XX Luglio, 11 Panzano in Chianti),吃 Fiorentina Steak, 人均50歐元有點兒貴,很多道菜和牛排,非常好吃而且超飽,吃不完;餐廳2:Osteria Le Panzanelle (Località Lucarelli, 29, 53017 Radda in Chianti),最好吃的 意大利 面!!也可以吃到 Fiorentina Steak;餐廳3:Cantinetta Sassolini (Piazza Ricasoli, 2, 50022 Panzano),地道的小餐館。
正是午餐時間,這推薦來得及時。最終我選擇了第三家,原因很簡單——距離最近!地方並不難找,門前停滿了汽車。一走進去,便被那朦朧的綠蔭小院吸引住了。站在院中的老者禮貌地招呼我們,還是那種談不上熱情卻很真誠的淺笑。我們坐進再往裡走的小院子,那是一處被正午的驕陽遺忘的角落,眼前是無盡的柔光,坐下來的一瞬間便知道自己選對了地方。
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這還不是重點!這裡的T骨牛排,就算是不愛修辭的 Lamtty 也忍不住說著好吃到想哭。三五分熟,外焦里嫩,汁水充足,入口即化,說好吃到想哭一點不為過。相比在 Firenze 吃的T骨而言,不知美味多少倍。(之前還懷疑 意大利 的T骨牛排並沒有相傳的那麼好吃。)
後來和 Firenze 房東聊起這件事,他說像這樣的小鎮,一般會在清晨宰殺一兩頭小牛,由當地的餐館瓜分,每日量不多,才保證了食材的絕對新鮮與烹飪時的匠心,這是 大城 市的西餐店無法比擬的。我們想著若是在接下來的幾天還想吃這樣的牛排,就還回 Panzano 來。
吃飯時有個笑話不得不講。當時我們旁邊陸續來了19個加州人,旅行團的樣子。離我們最近的那個人,見我們桌上吃剩下的T骨,便打算借去捉弄他的朋友。被捉弄的女生贊嘆一聲就要開吃,隨即一陣哄堂大笑……加州人的吵鬧,打破了所有人的拘謹與得體,令人哭笑不得。他們也覺得自己丟臉,噓了一通後忽然舉杯:To Canada!爆笑全場。相信所有人對他們都是又愛又恨的複雜心理吧!
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從 Cantinetta Sassolini 出來,能看到盡頭的小教堂。我倆推著車,走上前閑逛。教堂的左側緊鄰著一片荒郊,嬌嫩的淡黃色野花鋪滿眼前的山坡,陰涼處的石頭小路點綴著斑駁的苔蘚,即使正值午後,此處卻是無盡的涼爽。
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