沒有25℃,一樣可以在黔東南爽一“夏”
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我們通過 肇興 客棧老闆,聯繫了一輛當地車,花費100元,直接帶我們往返 堂安 侗寨。當然也可以買大巴票前往。車子在 盤山 公路上繞行,隨著海拔的升高,我看到了雲霧。當車子停下,我打開車門的瞬間,我真的被眼前的美景徵住了,我的眼睛目不轉睛地盯著,生怕打個盹,天上的雲就飄走了,霧就散了,美景就不在了。“值得了,值得了。”我心滿意足地欣賞著綠色與白色、梯田與雲朵的雙拼畫。相機咔嚓個不停,但是怎麼能與肉眼相比。往前走,有個平臺,類似觀景台,對面有家銀鉓家,大家都去看銀飾,只有我,一個人留在觀景台。銀飾,很多地方都可以看,但是這自然的美景,我想有那麼多地方我沒有去過,應該不會再到此一游了,我想一次看個夠。另外,我也有個小想法,一進侗寨,我就想拍侗族姑娘,但是剛纔都沒有碰到,所以我想在這裡碰碰運氣,遺憾的是,這裡只見到幾個老嫗,沒有見到年輕的侗寨女孩。同樣是侗寨,這裡更加原生態,不像 肇興 侗寨那麼熱鬧繁華,一進侗寨就是沿街一溜煙的客棧飯店,居然還有KTV。即使走進深處,也透著濃濃人氣。但是 堂安 ,就真的是居偏遠處的少數民族的寨子,現代化、商業化的氣息不濃。
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停留加游玩一個小時後,我們又驅車返回 肇興 侗寨,感覺像立馬回到大都市。連看了幾天的少數民族,有點審美疲勞,所以當我知道明天我們將前往 大名 鼎鼎的 鎮遠 古鎮時,居然有點小確幸。這個古鎮也是旅游指南推薦的“明星”,明天就要去目睹真容,希望不會失望。
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鎮遠 ,2200多歲,雲貴高原上歷史最悠久的名城,它不僅擔負著“湘黔咽喉”“滇楚鎖鑰”“水陸要衝”的要職,也有著名剎古寺、宮殿園林、戲樓會館、碼頭驛道等景點。
“ 鎮遠 古城風貌沒有遭到破壞,推薦的歷史名城往往有個遺憾,就是高樓多了,煙囪多了,污染也嚴重了,而 鎮遠 沒有這個缺點。”從現代的眼光撩望, 舞陽 河兩岸雖然客棧縱橫、商家林立,但是不雜亂、不鬧心,安安靜靜地演繹著盛世繁華。
追尋古代的足跡回眸,《明史》記載:“ 貴州 為內池,當自 鎮遠 始矣。”到了明清時期, 鎮遠 駐軍的大量軍需,使無數商人涌入 鎮遠 ,商賈雲集,車水馬龍,貨物聚集,為西南一大都會,成為 湘西 和整個 貴州 的商品集散地。各路商人齊聚 舞陽 河畔,這幅雲貴高原上的“清明上河圖”商業繁榮在滇黔首屈一指。
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