【蜂首紀念】四天又四小時,景德鎮與有田告訴我的陶瓷故事(含景德鎮一日急行攻略)
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門口的大蒸籠熱氣騰騰,老闆躺在長凳上睡得深沉。
第二次到訪是隔天下午3點,竟然大門緊閉,無奈,大概是我們沒有緣分吧。
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小小的餃子粑可以一口一個,一口氣十個不費勁。
驚喜感不突出,不知沒嘗到的老店味道會不會更勝一籌。
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說起 景德鎮 的小吃,冷粉是很多當地人心中排在第一名的。這裡的米粉比較粗,口味咸辣。
漆氏冷粉,我在那段路來回兩遍才瞥到小店的門頭。
或者說這不是一家店,而只是一個大門洞。
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在我們“少辣少辣”的祈求下,老闆只好象徵性地抖一抖,但也是紅紅火火了。
![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/52/69/wKgBEFqUFF6AKJQpAApcv0qs_Lk19.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/52/6E/wKgBEFqUFGCAdva8AArGjBS95bM42.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
去老攤子吃特色小吃,在這種前提下,衛生啦、服務啦,變成了不重要的部分。
臨走跟老闆道一聲好吃,聽到一句聽不懂的方言,我就把它當作吃好就好、下次再來吧。
![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/52/70/wKgBEFqUFGGAKofcAA1W3Zfzoe089.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
下午5點到店,得到的答覆是賣!完!了!
![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/52/71/wKgBEFqUFGKAOrkIAA0caZ_fZG484.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
後來在附近的市場找到一個攤子,店主正翻得火熱。
和我之前認知的煎包不同之處在於餡料。
韭菜餡,分不辣和辣的。
辣的最值得嘗試,裡面有紅紅的辣椒,味道比不辣的更好。
![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/52/72/wKgBEFqUFGOAETqLAAoqxW02-Yo41.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
辣椒+糯米、辣椒+柚子皮、辣椒+南瓜……可以做成各種不同的辣椒粑。
但共同特征就是紅彤彤,味道咸甜咸甜有帶辣,很獨特,可能會吃不慣,可以各樣散成一點嘗鮮。
![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/52/73/wKgBEFqUFGSAX2S_AA8seUejkmc29.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
昌南閣是在 昌江 邊上的仿古閣建築,還未完全啟用。
![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/53/35/wKgBEFqUFNaAcdLpAA8qidRKQpQ34.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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這裡要贊客棧的阿姨,特地過來詢問而且幫我們鋪上電熱毯~
![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/53/23/wKgBEFqUFMuAKBUWAAkPZg4ly6k47.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
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除了冷粉還有水煮和油炸清湯。
水煮不清淡,是辣辣的,有點類似麻辣燙。
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冷粉不冷,推薦堂食。
![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/53/2A/wKgBEFqUFNCAU6EQAAiQ915c_vc27.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![景德鎮自助遊攻略](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/3D/C3/wKgBEFqkjaKANIbvAAHLbr7igec63.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fh%2F150%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
畢竟,誰還沒有精神跟隨小三爺和小哥下過鬥呢?
曙光路的古玩市場,最早只在周一凌晨開市,因而被稱為“鬼市”。
瓷片古玩,躺在攤位上,在黑暗中綿延,而看清他們的唯一方式是自帶手電筒。
來鬼市擺攤的人,有的本是農民工人,無意挖出了寶貝,發家致富。
來逛鬼市的人,不乏走南闖北的淘寶人,慧眼識真,轉手間獲益翻倍。
有人一夜暴富,有人血本無歸,種種起落都在此上演。
好吧,說了那麼多都是傳聞中的鬼市了。
現在的曙光路古玩市場聽說多為仿造做舊,並且常年開著,只不過周一的早晨還是擺攤最多的,直到上午再稀稀拉拉散去。
說去“鬼市”,不能說去,也不能說上,更不能說逛,得說“趟鬼市”。“趟”,就好像摸著石頭過河,水深水淺自己知道,畢竟這兒賣什麼的都有,真假難辨,全憑經驗判斷。
碰巧行程到這裡適逢周一,那麼就去趟鬼市吧。
曙光路的古玩市場大門即是一座仿古建築。
記住這裡的計價單位,1塊=100塊,就可以去淘寶了。
當然在逛的過程中也有很多商家按正常單位計價,總之一定要問清再買。
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鬼市的東西,就算是做舊也多了加土的過程,買來盛裝食物是不合適了,而這樣的圓瓷片,洗刷乾凈了,當個茶墊碗墊還是很ok啊。
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