西行記——你眼中的美,足以讓海浪沙灘從記憶里忘懷
![青海自助遊攻略](https://b4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/91/CB/wKgBZ1n9b8iABf9XAA8pmVORXrQ08.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://p3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/91/CE/wKgBZ1n9b8uAcH3HAAnrF24ggPw06.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/91/C4/wKgBZ1n9b7-AJ5BXAA4dkjfTrSw89.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/23/wKgBZ1n9cYmABXDeAA196_bSq7o06.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
Des3:秦始皇陵兵馬俑
旅行的條件,簡單苛刻:下雨麻煩,大太陽心煩,最不濟的是穿了雙不舒服的鞋子頂著烈日走遠路。逛秦始皇陵兵馬俑絕對是這樣一種體驗,兵馬俑好歹在室內,請問秦始皇陵你知錯嗎?!在一個大園子里繞來繞去,除了一塊老少皆明的四字碑,剩下的都看不出與秦始皇有什麼關係 。唯一的亮點是導游的講解,清晰不乏幽默,隨走隨停,輕鬆愉快,不然我真要對這地方發差評了!
![青海自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/5D/wKgBZ1n9ccSAfkrSAA2yOmdjH3864.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/5E/wKgBZ1n9ccaAWXaZAAgT8MOiPNg72.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/89/wKgBZ1n9ce2AHXG4ABCv73evSos66.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/8C/wKgBZ1n9cfKAEiHbAA8m810I7GU24.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://p3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/8F/wKgBZ1n9cfWAMCiFAAwltKSvooY57.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/AE/wKgBZ1n9chKAWyciAAk0C57Mvfg17.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/B0/wKgBZ1n9chaALd-9AAnc3l3yGOw70.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/B5/wKgBZ1n9chmALUH5AAkItRJRWA826.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/B8/wKgBZ1n9chuAFfkOAAryutUd5zY07.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/93/BA/wKgBZ1n9ch2ATPVYAAbCJ7bJsbY47.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
Des4:鐘鼓樓、回民街
鐘鼓樓也是 西安 一景,不看絕對遺憾!不過請相信我,真的看看就可以啦,上古城牆俯瞰 西安 市的幸福絕對可以替代上鐘鼓樓眺望的快感,尤其是晚上!
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/94/76/wKgBZ1n9cwKAYSg2AA2K2epBKM058.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/94/C6/wKgBZ1n9c2aAMaCjAAusj6slivw59.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
由於這裡已然進入 西北 的地界,飲食偏重麵食,重油重鹽;不知是不是共飲一江 黃河 水的緣故, 陝西 麵食一樣重醋偏酸,長江流域沿線及以南偏食清淡的游朋友嘗嘗就好啦哈哈,連我這個在江浙滬大包郵區生活了6年的北方人都一時半會兒無法習慣呢。
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/91/13/wKgBZ1n9bs6Aa_epAAbm4IZjYFg22.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/91/12/wKgBZ1n9bsyAHWwmAAlaMiQ5dwo30.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/91/12/wKgBZ1n9bs2ATsQtAAj0Dpl9Djc60.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://b4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/95/DD/wKgBZ1n9dN-AVUkcAAjimxtobVE49.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/0D/E4/wKgBZ1n8P1-AbwgAAAZ9qubRtbE61.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
下圖就是 大名 鼎鼎的biangbiang面,至今我都可以唱出關於這個字寫法的歌謠:一點飛上天, 黃河 兩頭彎,八字大張口,言字往進走,你一扭我一扭,你一長我一長,中間加個馬大王,心字底月子旁,掛個丁丁叫馬扛,坐個車車到 咸陽 (演員李琦版的,電視劇《 西安 老虎家》片尾曲)。與面相配的是冰峰汽水,雖然已經被現代各式各樣的高級飲料替代,但如同 太原 的太鋼汽水,總是 西安 一代人的記憶。
最棒的是,這家面館有生蒜!吃面的時候就著,估計只有上了年紀的晉陝人民才會這麼吃了吧。咬一口,是不同於辣椒的一種清洌的辣,顧不得口氣是否清新,此刻我只希望在這味道中找尋過往,找尋 西北 人最純正最完整的飲食文化。
![青海自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/0D/E3/wKgBZ1n8P1-AfvFyABNsldvJZdw27.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
Des5:城牆騎車
城牆是 西安 城另一道靚麗的風景線,幾個城門接連著整個城牆,在 西安 老城區內以長安街為對稱軸畫了一個大大的矩形。勻速徒步一圈,目測兩小時以上。城牆也有多種玩法,或走,或停,或拍照,或觀景,最浪漫不過租輛雙人自行車騎行。
城牆騎車最好在晚上,白天頂著烈日騎上長長的一圈是作死曬黑的節奏。但是!以為安排完美的我們,對一切毫不知情的我們,最終還是因為城牆上不知從何而來的外事活動打亂了計劃。不過旅行儼然玩的是個心情,儘管毒日當頭照,我們只要把自己包裹得嚴嚴實實,塗上厚厚的防曬霜,就可以且走且停,甚至不顧城牆上的規定飆車 (朋友們別模仿這個錯誤示範)。似乎大晴天,古老的城牆與雙人騎行更配哦…
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/94/F7/wKgBZ1n9c7CABLMSAA2Rg0N9vtg22.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/95/4A/wKgBZ1n9dBiAetn6AAtpvK2Gx_M53.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/95/4C/wKgBZ1n9dBuAM8MQAAxyGQNDohM04.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/95/50/wKgBZ1n9dB6APn_kAAqAZLBAMwQ21.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
唯一的遺憾是,走街串巷,想聽一場青曲社的相聲或一嗓子秦腔的我,因為時間不夠未能如願。那也還是留待下次吧!
![青海自助遊攻略](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/95/0A/wKgBZ1n9c8mAYOV2AAusx978hOo37.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
早上7點,列車停靠 西寧 站。第一印象:冷。第二印象:天好藍。第三印象:街上好多戴白帽,戴頭巾的回民。
這就是我日思夜想的 青海 啊!天空高遠清透,方言好似來自另一種語系,就像進入另一個世界。不敢跑跳,不敢快走,據說會有高原反應。
坐了一夜硬座的我們整個上午在賓館不省人事,把午飯都睡過去了,第一天行程不能太滿。棄掉了民國建築,選定了東關清真大寺。事實證明,不枉此行!作為 西北 最大的四座清真寺之一,這裡接受遠近伊斯蘭教徒最虔誠的膜拜。從早4點到晚近10點,一天5次禮拜,據說重大節日的時候,前來朝拜的教徒可以從 西寧 火車站排到寺內!院內一塊塊的小花毯正是承載他們禮拜的全部。上了年紀的教徒留著白白的鬍子,在不禮拜的空當,三三兩兩坐在毯子上曬太陽聊天,他們可能就這樣在清真寺里待上一整天。
![青海自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/97/3D/wKgBZ1n9dnCATI5mAAupemKM4Jw72.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/97/31/wKgBZ1n9dmSAfS2hAAxBNnmW_ok65.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![青海自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/97/37/wKgBZ1n9dmyAC5DyABkih_DxKCk28.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)