非洲之巔·環游世界200天 坦桑尼亞 游記+攻略【中英】Tanzania
我驚叫著說：“這是給誰用的？？？”
“在這座山上，每個禮拜都有人死呢，很多人真的很會作死，有些時候我們就要用這些擔架把他們抬到直升機停機坪讓家人給他們收屍。”
我勒個去。
兩小時之後，我們來到了今晚的休息地，千禧營地，幾乎所有人都用這條線路下山，所以這個營地也很大很大，但是當我在管理員處報到的時候，突然聽到了外面一陣喧囂，我和管理員跑了出去一看究竟。
“This is for dead people.” Frank said.
“this is FOR WHAT!?” I was taken aback.
“People die on this mountain all the time. Some people just like to push themselves. So we use this to carry their bodies and wait for a helicopter to pick it up.”
“Well, fuck.”
“Yeah, in my 30 years I have seen a lot of dead people on this mountain. When I was a ranger, it happened almost every week.” Frank casually explained.
We continued the pleasant walk for another two hours before we reached Millennium Camp. It was the primary descent route camp, so it was quite large as well. However, as I was ready to sign into the ranger station, I heard some commotion on the other side of the camp. I ran there with Frank and the ranger to see what happened.
Well, apparently Frank was right. All four porters greeted Frank like he was their father. 30 years on the mountain surely gets you something amongst the people. He examined this older white dude on the mountain ambulance, and apparently he got snow blindness. It is a very dangerous phenomenon that happens to some people when you look at way too much bright white things, and can easily faint you when coupled with altitude. He was given permission to keep going down to Mweka camp and even more until he reach a park maintenance road so that he could be transported to a hospital. Quickly the commotion calmed down, and I settled into my tent.
我在營地裡面找到了另外一群和我一起在山頂看日出的澳洲人，由一個叫做Nathan的志願者團體組織者領隊，他們邀請我一起共進晚餐，寂寞孤獨好多天的我當然同意了，我突然意識到了在一個桌子上吃東西是多麼美好的一件事情，他們團隊裡面的兩個女生還給我看他們在山頂的時候脫光身子拍的照片，澳洲人真尼瑪奇怪。
I found a neighboring group, a few crazy Aussies and a local Tanzanian, along with an OZ businessman Nathan who was in charge of a charity-based tourism agency. They invited me to eat with them, so I had to move my dinner finally to a table they had in their dining tent! It was a great experience actually eating on a table, who would know! We talked for almost forever, and then two girls showed me how they stripped naked (oh yeah, naked. did I mention this blog is not for kids?) on top of the mountain. Man, those Aussies are hella weird.
我最後給Frank和我的幾位背夫付了小費，儘管非常貴，但是為了我這次平安無事的登頂 成功 也是值了。他們都非常的高興，所以大家圍成了一圈開始即興唱歌，他們唱了關於我這次“英雄事跡”的偉大壯舉，從我的理想到我的每一天努力攀爬，而嘹亮的歌聲把正要休息的鳥兒們都嚇得往遠處飛去。我真的很開心，我能夠達到我心中的夢想，有很多人有這點錢可是還是沒有這點勇氣。我愛高山，我的最終夢想是爬上世界七個大洲的最高峰，叫做7 Summits，而我已經把我的第一座山拿下了。
沒有夢想，我們活著和死著有什麼區別呢？
I went and paid the porters and Frank their tips. It was costly, but I believed we were a great team working together, so I tipped them a lot. They all became quite elated, and started a song. It started with my motivation to climb the mountain, and how beautiful this holy volcano is, and my detailed itinerary, my “heroic” summitting experience, and my generosity. The song echoed around the bushes and cliffs, slowly disappeared in the cloud forest far away. It was a great night, and I was so happy that I made my dream come true. I always loved climbing mountains, because that is challenging myself to reach literally new heights, thus I wanted to do 7 summits. This marked my first of the seven summits, and I will do everything I can to achieve my dreams. Without dreams to pursue, what is the difference between living and dying?
Above: never stop, for the dream
第六天
Day 6
我又早早起床，和Nathan以及一行人道了別，然後開始沿著美麗的步道一蹦一跳地向下走，很快樹木重新出現了，我也在9點來到了Mweka營地，小歇一陣之後繼續往下，走入了雲霧之中。在雲裡面行走就是在山雨里前行，我一步一步地在兩個小時裡面下降了1000多米，淋得完全濕透，但是還是看到了很多的野生動物在泥濘的高山叢林裡面繁衍生息。
I woke up for an early morning, and departed from Millennium Camp after bidding farewell to Nathan and his fellas. The walk was very nice, as grass gave way to bushes, and bushes gave way to trees. I reached Mweka Camp around 9 am, and continued down into the dense forest. As I slowly walked downhill, I got closer and closer to the clouds, and eventually, after so many days, I finally re-immersed myself within them. The cloudiness turned into gloominess, and before too long I was walking in a drizzle. Not your normal chocolate drizzle, real tropical forest drizzle. I descended more than 1000m in two hours after that, and the muddy condition made it incredibly slippery and dangerous. The view was stunning, though, as I was back in the lush green forest along with a lot of wildlife.
I finally reached the maintenance road around 10:30 am. And I saw the “mountain ambulance” abandoned by the side of the road. Hope that guy was alright. Then I walked along the road for another half an hour, and I reached the gate of the Mweka route. I did it! I made to the top of Africa and back! I finished a route that usually takes more than 8 days in 6 days, and with relative ease and no altitude sickness. I also could not wait to be part of civilization again.
回去的路上，幾個背夫們一個一個領了薪水然後回到了家，終於可以見到家人們然後用這些工資來好好享受一番，而我在一頓午餐之後，很快便發現只有Frank是和我一起同行回到 阿魯沙 的。
On the way back, the porters were dropped off around the town, and I bid farewell to them as well. They now got their paycheck and my tip, and could enjoy some quality time with their families. I was glad that everything went smoothly, and I found myself driving back with just Frank after the local lunch.
下圖：本地午餐/Below: local lunch
I made it all the way back to Arusha. Frank and I walked into the agency, and we shook hands as he handed me my summit certificate. It was great to know such a nice guy who was so experienced that almost everyone knows him on the mountain. Despite he had conquered this mountain 300+ times, he said I was the fastest on this route. I learned some important things. I got to learn the love of nature, and now I love it so much, I fear it. I admired its stars, reveled at its snow and ice, humbled by its clouds and bushes, and dreaded its sheer cold. It was probably one of the best weeks I have had in my life, and that made me a better human being.
Above: never knew that I can get even uglier by not showering for 6 days
我再次感謝了Frank，和他道了別。由於我提前兩天完成了登頂任務，我有兩天的空閑時間在 阿魯沙 安排我的未來行程，洗衣服，整理東西等等。我還抽空去了 阿魯沙 很有名的一家路邊燒烤店叫做大汗家，這家店白天是汽修店，晚上是燒烤店，所以那些工作人員的襯衫正面是汽修店的名字，到了晚上他們把襯衫倒過來穿，露出反面的燒烤店名字即可。一頓超級美味的燒烤只要13000先令，大概是40元。
I thanked Frank again, bidding him farewell. Since I finished climbing 2 days too early, I had 2 days free in Arusha. Next day, I woke up to organize my stuffs for the whole day. I had to do laundry, reorganize my bags, and plan future travels. Same thing happened for the next day. Notably, I visited the most reveled local restaurant called Khan’s BBQ. It was very interesting. The store is an auto repair shop in the day, and by night, it turns into this delicious barbecue meat house complete with a side dish buffet, all by the street. The workers wear shirts that have “Khan’s Repair Shop” in the front, and by night, they simply switch to the other side which says “Khan’s BBQ”. The food was absolutely delicious and incredibly cheap as well, costing about 13000 Shillings/6 dollars for a full blown meal.
下圖：這家店的兩個身份
Below: the two identities of this shop
Another interesting yet annoying thing is about the local mosques. Please do not hate me on this, but I found them extremely annoying. Just as a disclaimer, I accept all religion, and I believe no religion can be based upon hatred or violence, so please read this part before lynching me on a McDonald’s sign. In Arusha, there are at least 5 mosques spread across the area. The hotel happened to be beside one of them, like right across the street. However, as instructed by Qu’ran, all Muslims have to pray several times a day. Usually they do so in silence, as I have seen and experienced on some flights, in some pl ace s, etc. However, in the case of Arusha, it is kinda the opposite. For some weird reason that I suspect that may be competing mosques or with other religions, they broadcast their praying with motherfucking loudspeakers. Not your normal Africa type of loudspeakers mounted on Toyota Hilux, the extra huge ones mounted on their towers. Ever seen a loudspeaker used to broadcast air sirens? Yeah, that kind. If this happens around noon or so, that would be fine, but the earliest prayer is fucking 5 am! 5.A.M!!! WHAT THE ACTUAL FUCK!!! And it is not just one mosque beside me, all of them! ALL.OF.THEM! And the prayer is not just something short, it lasts well over 20 minutes! 20 M.I.N.U.T.E.S!!! And it is not continuing talking. It is like a short prayer, then 1 minute of silence, and then another short prayer, and repeat! It was almost a torture every day in the morning! The last one is around 9 pm, which can potentially annoy some early sleepers. Before you guys staple me to the fucking wall, I need to clarify that I am all up for prayers and practices of religions, but when it severely disrupts others’ daily life, then I am sorry. I hated these mosques to guts, given that I had 4 mornings contemplating my life and my failures to even get a girlfriend FUCKING 5 AM IN THE MORNING WITH JUST 3 OR 4 HOURS OF SLEEP. Allah fucking damn it.
在 阿魯沙 的第二天晚上，我乘了一個小時計程車來到了 乞力馬扎羅 機場，登上了前往 達累斯薩拉姆 的飛機，這個 坦桑尼亞 （前）首都和上一篇的 內羅畢 和其他一些 非洲 首都一樣，並沒有太多的東西可以看。
At night of the second day back in Arusha, I took an arranged taxi to the Kilimanjaro airport, which is about 1 hour away from the city. I cleared the immigration to board a Fastjet flight to Dar Es Salaam. The capital of Tanzania has almost nothing to offer, just like Nairobi, and a lot of other African capitals.
下圖： 乞力馬扎羅 機場的 荷蘭 皇家航空
Below: KLM airline in Kilimanjaro airport
I was picked up by another pre-arranged ride, and I was in my hostel around midnight. I had 3 days here in this city, but since there is not too much to show, I will skim over this city. I visited the Seacliff Hotel and Resort slash shopping mall slash casino, had a lovely yet costly Lebanese food, then Slipway shopping center (Seriously, that is the only thing you can do here) for a beer by the ocean, finally a restaurant called Cape Town Fish Market, an lovely and expensive pl ace for foreigners.
Founded as a city of the Khaliphate of Zanzibar, Dar Es Salaam means "House of Pe ace " in Arabic. Later, it was ruled by the German and English, and is now the biggest city in Tanzania.
下一站： 贊比亞 ！
回想起來， 坦桑尼亞 的這幾天真的讓我感覺到驕傲。儘管非常的寂寞和孤獨，但是我不但有很多時間可以獨自思考人生，又達成了我登上 非洲 之巔的夢想，下一次我應該去去看 桑給巴爾島 ，然後再去看看 坦桑尼亞 南部。
我的飛機於半夜一點緩緩降落在了 盧薩卡 國際機場，儘管外面一片漆黑，我卻雞凍無比，我又要達成我的人生目標之一了，我要去看世界之最： 維多利亞 大瀑布。人家稱這是天堂一瞥，我也想去看看到底天堂是長什麼樣的。
（感謝大家閱讀本篇游記，希望大家喜歡！這是我2016年環游世界的第三部分，你可以在本文開頭找到前往前兩部分的鏈接，如果有童鞋英語好，可以去我個人介紹裡面的全英文博客看看，有所有本次旅行23篇的游記，全部更新完畢。大家有什麼建議，意見，想法和感觸，都可以在評論區給我留言喲！也請大家多多關註我，這樣子的話下一篇 贊比亞 新鮮出爐的時候，你們可以成為沙發！）
At the 3rd night, I again went to the airport, and boarded a Fastjet flight to Lusaka.
Next stop: Zambia!
Looking back, Tanzania was probably holding one of my proudest moments by climbing on top of Africa It was a lonely 10 days, I know, but it was okay since I got so much time to reflect and think. Next time I should take a look of Zanzibar as well since there are simply way too much to explore in this country other than the Northern side.
My plane was almost empty, and I had a whole row. So when the plane slowly landed at Lusaka Airport at 1 am, I was woken up from my sleep. It was pitch black out there, and I knew it will be another one of my dreams coming true: Victoria Falls, the wonder that used to belong to heaven, here I come. (please wait patiently for my next installment, or you can visit my English blog at Beyounged.wordpress.com for complete journeys.)
下圖：沒事做在青旅裡面玩貓
Below: nothing to do, so play with cats in the hostel
2000 坦桑尼亞 先令=1美金
1人民幣=300 坦桑尼亞 先令
建議拜訪日期：
六到八月，雨季剛結束，旺季還沒開始，適合去草原以外的所有地方
一到二月最適合去塞倫蓋蒂等草原地點，大遷徙時間，這是夏天時間所以註意防暑
簽證：港澳居民不需要，中美加英護照入境可以落地簽，90天單次出入50美金，90天多次出入100美金
進入 坦桑尼亞 ：
飛機：總體上來說 歐洲 過去便宜， 非洲 過去貴，其他地方過去一般般。
乞力馬扎羅 國際機場是最適合游客看大草原和爬 乞力馬扎羅 山的，飛這裡的航空公司有：Condor（ 法蘭克福 經 蒙巴薩 ）， 埃塞俄比亞 航空（ 亞的斯亞貝巴 ）， 肯尼亞 航空（ 內羅畢 ）， 荷蘭 皇家航空（ 阿姆斯特丹 經 基加利 ）， 卡塔爾 航空（ 多哈 經桑給巴爾）， 土耳其 航空（ 伊斯坦布爾 經 蒙巴薩 ）
桑給巴爾機場也是度假地首選，除了上面提到的航空公司以外還有很多季節性的 歐洲 航班（ 意大利 德國 波蘭 俄羅斯 以色列 等），所以桑給巴爾也是飛機票非常便宜，但是住宿和消費貴。飛這裡的有：Condor, 迪拜 航空， 埃塞俄比亞 航空， 馬拉維 航空（利隆圭）， 卡塔爾 航空， 阿曼 航空（慕斯卡特經 達累斯薩拉姆 ）， 土耳其 航空。
達累斯薩拉姆 機場是國家首都機場， 非洲 直航多，有 毛里求斯 航空， 津巴布韋 航空（ 哈拉雷 ）， 埃及 航空（ 開羅 ），艾提哈德航空（ 阿布扎比 ）， 阿聯酋 航空（ 迪拜 ），Ewa航空（藻德濟，法屬 馬約特 群島，如果你去過請私信我，我特別想去）,Fastjet（廉價航空， 盧薩卡 ， 哈拉雷 ），Int Air Isles（莫洛尼， 科摩羅 群島）， 南非 航空（ 約翰內斯堡 ）， 肯尼亞 航空， 莫桑比克 航空（ 馬普托 ）， 馬拉維 航空， 荷蘭 皇家航空， 阿曼 航空， 卡塔爾 航空， 盧旺達 航空， 土耳其 航空， 瑞士 航空（ 蘇黎世 ）。
巴士：國內巴士系統很一般，長途巴士基本上都只有 達累斯薩拉姆 有，也有來回 達累斯薩拉姆 和 內羅畢 、 馬拉維 、 贊比亞 的巴士
時間：本地人認為6點是一天的開始，所以本地人交流時候說的早上5點實際上是我們的11點，所以要問清楚他們到底說的是幾點。
衛生和安全：全國9%患有艾滋病，請做好防蚊準備，這裡瘧疾和黃熱病還是有的（請打好疫苗，入境時候會查黃熱病疫苗證明），吃乾凈食物以防傷寒症，雨季桑給巴爾有些時候有霍亂。報警打112。
尊重當地：桑給巴爾和一些地區是穆斯林為主，所以女生不要穿的暴露，也請不要在特別公眾地方給他人發狗糧（作為一個單身汪我希望大家不管在哪都不要發狗糧）
乞力馬扎羅 （見游記）：你一定要嚮導和背夫才可以上去，整座山不是特別特別困難，但是絕不是散步。
選擇登山路線：你的登山公司會有不一樣的路線，我游記裡面選擇的是最長的Lemosho線路，最短也是最便宜的是Marangu。請註意，這裡真的是一分價錢一分貨，你挑便宜的，你就要在外面石頭上或者是睡袋裡面吃飯，你的帳篷可能就不是這麼高級，也沒有英語好的嚮導，可能他還會催你早點完成，下麵的價格都是最便宜一般人可以弄到的，奢侈版本的就會帶移動廁所餐廳帳篷以及會更多天數，人數也一般有限制，一般價格乘以一點五。
八條線路：
Machame （威士忌線，景色美人多，7天，1500美金，難度：中上）
Marangu （可口可樂線，最受歡迎路線，6天，可以住小房子裡面而不用搭帳篷，1200美金，難度：中）
Rongai （6天，人少，1500美金，難度：中）
Lemosho（8天，2000美金左右，景色超美，難度：難，個人推薦，見游記）
Umbwe （7天，幾乎沒人，難度：很難）
Shira （7天，1900美金，難度：難）
北環線 （10天，2400美金，景色超美，幾乎沒人，難度：難，個人推薦）
Mweka (只能回程使用)
選擇登山公司：一定要選收到國家批准的正規公司，否則偷工減料很容易出事。游記裡面我的朋友Nathan有做登山和志願者二合一項目，我很推薦（請搜Adventure Out Loud，也代我和他打聲招呼！）。當然也可以到了當地找，會便宜點，也有很多公司會 乞力馬扎羅 和塞倫蓋蒂一起賣。
最佳時間：推薦登頂月份是1,2,7,8,9,10，爬山前後最好各留上2天以防航班延誤，以及最終準備
裝備：你需要適應最高等級的睡袋，帳篷，衝鋒衣，登山杖，帽子手套頭燈水壺鞋子襪子等等等等，你的登山公司會給你發一張清單的，不要買質量不好的東西，你會後悔的。不要帶電腦，手機帶的話要註意沒有電也沒有信號，所以當做相機帶的話請也帶上充電寶，最好不要帶。註意高山極寒，確認電子儀器是否可以承受最低-35°C的環境。
準備工作：請看一下前往 坦桑尼亞 所需的疫苗，不要太累，代號需要的文件和裝備，買好保險，提前3個月開始練練跑步和鍛煉腿力，最好可以去高山先走走，到了當地之後最後檢查一下你的所有裝備，不需要的所有東西留在賓館裡面。
小費：除了小費，你的團費應該所有東西都包了。小費標準僅供參考。你的團隊人數可以這麼算，每三個登山者需要一個嚮導，每十個登山者需要一個廚師，每個人需要2.5個背夫，每團一個侍者一個背馬桶的背夫，但是人少的團隊要額外加背夫。
領隊嚮導：20美金/天
普通嚮導：12美金/天
侍者和背夫：6美金/天
廚師：12美金/天
高原反應：不要逞強，3000米以上75%的人會得高反。一旦有頭痛噁心沒食欲呼吸困難的話和其他人講，別忍著不說。當你感覺要嘔吐的話一定要特別小心了，再不認真對待的話你就要掛了。一旦有任何癥狀，請慢慢爬升高度！治療高反的唯一途徑就是下山，所以真的不行了就和嚮導說在原地等一天或者是下山休息一天再試試。不要浪費不必要浪費的體力（沒事在營地亂跑啊什麼的），也千萬不要喝酒抽煙！！！高反時候喝酒是要嗝屁的！唯一可以服用的藥物是一種預防性的藥物，對治療沒有任何效果。（商品名是丹木斯，醫學名是乙酰唑胺 Acetazolamide）
下圖：八條線路示意圖 （credit to: Ultimate Kilimanjaro）
阿魯沙 ：一個旅行者們準備行囊準備去大草原或者是 乞力馬扎羅 的地方。唯一一個可以去看的地方是市場（市中心，要討價還價的）。這裡可以找到很多旅游公司幫你安排各種東西，滿足你的一切需求。這也是離 梅魯 山最近的城市，可以去爬，4667米，需要嚮導，2-4天。
達累斯薩拉姆 ：沒什麼有趣的，真的。一般人在這裡轉機倒時差停留兩天。乘出 租車 比較貴，但是可以試試看本地人的巴士Daladala，或者是叫 印度 三輪車Bajaj。真的要看什麼東西的話有一個略貴的海灘叫做Kigamboni，在去桑給巴爾船的隔壁坐船，然後叫出 租車 去海灘，然後由於大部分海灘都是私人的你還要出錢才能進去，一般單程所有東西要15000先令。
多多瑪和 蒙巴薩 ：去那裡乾啥？真的，你要是去的話和我說，我很好奇那裡有什麼東西。 謝謝大家閱讀！我正在努力搬磚，把我的英文游記翻譯成中文，我的中文和英文都不是最好，所以有什麼紕漏也請原諒並指出！如果希望看到我更多的東西的話，也請多多關註！
下一篇 贊比亞 /Next in Zambia：
我去到世界聞名的 維多利亞 大瀑布/I visited the world famous Victoria Falls
我和一隻猴子自拍/I took a selfie with a monkey
我和三個 愛爾蘭 妹子莫名其妙被卷入了當地政壇/3 Irish girls and I got involved in local politics
請戳這裡： http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7587191.html?h=37873910
