非洲之巔·環游世界200天 坦桑尼亞 游記+攻略【中英】Tanzania
這是我2016年環游世界的第三部分，為新來的童鞋們我把前面部分的鏈接都寫在了下麵。
This is part 3 of my journey through the world in 2016. For the newcomers, I have prepared portals to the other journals written before.
第一部分： 澳大利亞 西部北部/Part 1: West Australia, North Australia
http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7279190.html
第二部分： 肯尼亞 大草原/Part 2: Kenyan savannah
http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7344302.html
註：
英語和中文由於翻譯原因內容可能不完全一致
攻略在游記最後，但是游記裡面也有大量實用信息，強烈建議先閱讀游記（無恥推銷）
Note:
Due to translation, English and Chinese contents may not exactly agree.
The guide is at the end of the journal, but since the journal itself also contains a lot of useful information, I highly suggest you read the journal first.
↑坦桑尼亞 人們都說，你有夢想是好的。但是對我來說，實現夢想才是最高尚的。人往高處走水往低處流，我要做一件事情就要做到最好，所以咱們再來挑戰世界之最吧： 非洲 最高峰， 乞力馬扎羅 。
People always say: it is good to have dreams. However, to me, realizing a dream is the mightiest of them all. People always strive forward, and if I want to do something, I want to do it to the best. Now let's challenge another wonder of the world: highest peak in Africa, Mt. Kilimanjaro.
行程：
上接： 肯尼亞
第一天：坦肯邊境---> 阿魯沙
第二天： 阿魯沙 \---> 乞力馬扎羅 山國家公園
第二天到第七天：通過Lemosho爬山道登頂 乞力馬扎羅 山
第八天： 阿魯沙
第九天： 阿魯沙
第十天： 阿魯沙 \--->達埃斯 薩拉 姆
第十一天：達埃斯 薩拉 姆
第十二天：達埃斯 薩拉 姆---> 盧薩卡
下接： 贊比亞
Itinerary:
previously from: Kenya
Day 1: border of Kenya and Tanzania--->Arusha
Day 2: Arusha--->Kilimanjaro National Park
Day 2-7: summit attempt of Kilimanjaro via Lemosho trail
Day 8-9: Arusha
Day 10: Arusha--->Dar Es Salaam
Day 11: Dar Es Salaam
Day 12: Dar Es Salaam--->Lusaka
continue to: Zambia
擁擠不堪的巴士緩緩地在泥濘的 阿魯沙 城停了下來，Yin和我一下了車便被事先安排好的本地接待員帶到了我們的賓館。這個賓館只是一個市中心繁忙街角一處的矮破小高層，而它的一樓就是負責我們的旅行社，所以我們很快便確定了接下來的行程。Yin會繼續深入 塞倫蓋蒂國家公園 繼續草原冒險，而我則畫風一轉，準備爬上 非洲 之巔 乞力馬扎羅 山。在賓館裡面我們又遇到了Ausarine和Joao（見 肯尼亞 篇），於是便一同前行去 阿魯沙 的歪果仁餐廳藍魚鷹吃披薩，結果發現實在是太尼瑪好吃了啊啊啊啊啊。
The crowded shuttle bus came to a halt in the muddy town of Arusha. Yin and I were greeted by the local operator and shuttled to our hotel, a bleak building on the corner of a relatively central street. The tour agency we were associated to was at the bottom floor of this hotel, and we quickly figured out our itinerary. Yin was gonna continue with even more safari, while I switch my gears and would climb Mountain Kilimanjaro. We met up, AGAIN, with Ausarine and Joao, and decided to go for some pizza in the local expat restaurant called Blue Heron. It was simply OUT OF THIS WORLD.
↑阿魯沙 上圖：當你有披薩吃的時候，誰還要女朋友之類的生物呢？
Above: girlfriend? who needs that when you have pizza?
餐館的花園非常漂亮，服務生也很友善，更何況還有一個很不錯的露天用餐區。但我們也不管那麼多了，直接如猛虎撲食一般把整隻整隻的披薩吞了下去，之後摸著圓圓的肚子回到了賓館準備明日的各自行程。晚餐我們則選擇了賓館樓下有點坑歪果仁的餐館，嘗試了各種本地菜之後，我們還一起幹了一瓶 乞力馬扎羅 牌啤酒！這瓶啤酒是我給自己 成功 登頂的提前獎勵，當然在以前這種提前獎勵從來都沒有發揮過它應該發揮的作用。。。
The restaurant had a great garden, awesome staff, and a chic outdoor seating area. We could not care less as we were all starving, and munched down entire pizzas with no issue, later returning to the hotel preparing the next parts of the trips by ourselves. We met again downstairs for our dinner, and decided to go lazy and just eat in the slightly overpriced, okay, quite overpriced, in-hotel restaurant. We had a great dinner, with all kinds of random local food, and of course, the famous Kilimanjaro beer! Now that is some reward I gave myself before I finished climbing that mountain, and it is called preward! (which never worked)
下圖： 阿魯沙
Below: Arusha
↑阿魯沙 
第一天：熱帶乾燥草原--->高山雨林
Day 1 : tropical drylands ---> alpine rainforest
爬升高度：550米/1800英尺
elevation gain: 550m/1800ft
隔天一大早，我和Yin,Ausarine和Joao到了別，他們要一同去賽倫蓋蒂，而我則要去登頂 非洲 。我和我的嚮導Frank，一個被歲月滄桑拂過臉頰，戴著一頂老舊的登山帽，穿著一雙更老舊登山靴的中年人，見了面。他絲毫沒有緊張或者是激動，所以他肯定在這一行做了很多很多年了。我們倆和一起負責登山隊伙食的廚師，還有兩個背夫一起登上了麵包車。我難以按耐住內心的雞凍，萬一我在接下來的這幾天在一同的登山隊裡面遇到一輩子的好朋友呢？
Upon morning, I had to bid farewell to Yin, Ausarine, and Joao. They would continue to Serengeti, while I head west for the highest point in Africa. I met with my guide Frank, a slightly weathered man with a lot of wrinkles on the side of his eyes. He bore an expedition hat, and some long boots. The fact that he seemed very calm made me suspect he had done this business for many years. We hopped onto the transport along with my gears, and I was beyond excited for who would be joining me in the climb of lifetime. What if I make a best friend out of this experience? 但是我實在是錯得不能再錯了。
那之後我的帳篷，食物，煤氣爐，登山杖，都被拿了上來，我們也遍上了路。
“還有其他人嘛？”我隨口問了一句。
Frank笑了笑：“啊哈，就只有你一個人。”
噢，原來是這樣的啊。
我原本算得好好的，如果我故意選擇最便宜的 乞力馬扎羅 山項目，那我肯定可以遇到其他人，因為很多便宜的團喜歡把好幾個地方報名的人集合到一個團裡面，呵呵，我見過的最貴的團也一般都至少有5個人。和我之前的十幾年一樣，我又要一個人繼續我無比孤獨的旅程了。我們的麵包車在一個大路口停了下來，大家一起吃早餐，之後由於我選擇了一條比較少人使用的線路，我們要從西面繞到步道口。很快水泥路變成了土路，所有的東西都被甩得在車廂裡面亂撞，當然，在我們的一個輪胎爆掉了之後一切都停了下來。
I WAS WRONG. I WAS SO GODDAMN WRONG.
My porters got onto the van a few minutes later, and then my chef, and then their gears, and then the stove, the food, the tent, the trekking pole, and we were on our way, riding off on the Tanzanian highway. "Are we expecting anyone else?" I asked. Frank replied with a smirk:"No, it is just you."
OH.
Of course, the best experience in my life always just consist of me, myself and I. I went for the cheapest option out there for a Kilimanjaro climb, and normal logic goes that the cheaper it is, the more people they will try to cram into one group. Heck, even all the other expensive groups were more than 5 people usually. Maybe it was because I am just too ugly or had such a bad attitude, people went out of their ways to avoid being in the same group with me, how do I know! Anyways, this was gonna be an extremely lonely journey as well, just like all of my previous experiences with life, which did not forbode well. (much lonely, very complain, wow) The minivan carrying my expedition team made a stop for breakfast, then continued west, instead of everyone else's north, because I wanted to take a different route for the summit, which I will talk about later. We traded the highway for a narrow road, and then for a dirt one, and then for a dirt one that has more craters than the moon. Everything was tossed around in the vehicle, until one of our tires busted.
↑坦桑尼亞 上圖：在 非洲 修輪胎/Above: fixing tires in Africa
整整20分鐘浪費在了修輪胎上面，要爬山了我還是很激動，只不過有一點小小的惆悵，這次在山上我要一個多禮拜孤獨地行走了。由於備用輪胎無法承受太大的壓力，我們只好慢慢的開往國家公園。我們耍大牌一般的姍姍來遲，抵達了混亂不堪的Londorosi大門。游客們剛吃好午餐，背夫們正在按照國家要求每個人稱重20公斤，由於以前背夫背50多公斤上山總是會出事掛掉。而嚮導們則忙著填表彙報，司機們努力地抓緊時間搬東西。
It took us some good twenty minutes to fix up the tire with the backup one. I was still excited, don’t get me wrong, but I was just a bit dejected for being so lonely. This time it would be on a mountain above clouds, for a solid week. We then slowly made our way to the Kilimanjaro National Park, since the backup tire could not take too much pressure. We arrived fashionably late at the Londorosi Gate, which was absolutely a mess during this hour. People were finishing up lunch, and the porters were busy weighing their bags, since park regulation restricts the weight each person can carry to 20kg. The guides were busy filling up the forms for park entry, and drivers were busy loading/offloading goods and gears.
下圖：大門已經是2250米高了！
Below: the gate is already 2250m amsl!
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 上圖：背夫們/Above: porters
幸好越小的團隊過關越快，所以我們一個小時後，大概下午一點時分，便繼續向西前行了，這個大門只不過是所有人做入園報告的地方，而我的路線Lemosho登山路要從半小時開外的Lemosho大門門口開始。這個大門門可羅雀，由於這條線路是最長的，但是是最美麗的風景線路，而趕時間的匆匆看客或者對登山不熟悉的人都只會走更短的線路。
We stayed for about an hour there since it was faster for smaller groups, and we were able to get back to the van around 1 pm. This was not the gate we were heading out for, but used for all the formalities. After about half an hour, we were at Lemosho Gate, where my route, Lemosho Route, officially began the climb. This gate was much quieter, since Lemosho was the longest route and most scenic, all people here were hardcore climbers, as others prefer shorter routes.
下圖：激動地無法自拔
Below: excited as fuck
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 這座聖山絕對不是徒有虛名。 乞力馬扎羅 山是 非洲 最高峰，矗立5895米，坐落在 坦桑尼亞 北部，作為一座死火山，它也是離赤道最近的有終年積雪的地方，而且它還是世界上最高的獨立山，也就是說它不屬於任何的山脈系列。氣候跨越了山腳的熱帶一直到山頂的極地氣候，所以爬一次山也像是去世界旅行了一番。國家規定要登頂的人一定要請嚮導和背夫，一般兩到三個人需要一個嚮導，而每個登山者需要4個背夫來攜帶需要的食物，登山用具，帳篷，餐具等等。這個就導致了常常五個人的團隊就有整整一巴士的背夫：不要忘記了，背夫和嚮導也需要帳篷和吃喝的東西！背夫們一般白天像閃電一樣往上爬，這樣子他們可以提早來到營地支帳篷和煮飯。每個團隊裡面有一個背夫是侍者，負責端茶送水還送送飯什麼的，但是不負責點外賣，而還有一個是負責煮飯的廚師。這個廚師一定要收到過訓練，原因就在於很多人高原反應時根本沒有任何胃口。
Before I actually start detailing the journey to the top of Africa, I think I shall entertain you with some background information. The Kilimanjaro mountain is sitting at 5895m/19300ft in northern Tanzania. It is a volcano but is long dead. It is also the closest pl ace to equator to have permanent snow, as well as the tallest free standing mountain, meaning that it has the biggest prominence of any mountain. The climate ranges from tropical in the bottom to polar at the peak, which makes climbing itself a trip around the world as well. To reach to the top, one has to hire a guide and porters. Usually, every two to three people need a guide, and each person needs at least 4 porters to carry the food, the pots and utensils, the tent, the gas tank and other utilities. This results in a huge number of staff travelling with a group, sometimes a bus full of porters and guides just for a group of 5: remember, the porters and guides need their food and tents as well. Thus, in most of the time, you just see porters going fast and passing you, with very few climbers on the way. They usually go very fast ahead of the climbers, so they could reach the camp to set up the tent and cook for them. The porters used to be able to carry 50kg+, until some ugly accidents prompted the park to limit the weight to 20kg. One porter also functions as a waiter for the group, serving the climbers their food, water and warm water for washing. Another one is the chef, who has to prepare meals which can be tricky, since some affected by altitude sickness may lose their appetite.
下圖：晚飯~！/Below: dinner!
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 想要爬上 非洲 之巔，那你的荷包就要減重了。一般的價格大概在2000到3000左右美金，然後再加上給所有嚮導和背夫的小費，一般是一背夫一天10美金，所以你有十幾個背夫的時候這個加起來就也是一筆不小的開支。其他的就都是包括了的，嚮導費用，車費，食物，公園管理費等等，不過登山用具要自行解決。一些高端的5000+美金的團隊還有專門的背夫背馬桶和吃飯用的公用大帳篷，而我這個窮學生只好找了最便宜的團走最長的路了，儘管全程大部分時候都沒有特別困難的地方，個別路線還是需要一定的基礎技巧的。總共登頂有5條線路，而最受歡迎的也是最短的Machame線路，只需要花一個老奶奶6天即可。
Climbing the roof of Africa is not cheap. The normal price ranges from $2000 to $3000, and on top of it, tip for every porter involved in your group. The standard is $10 per porter per day, so it can add up significantly if you have a bus full of them. Other than that, it is all inclusive, as the guide fee, the food, transportation, park entrance, and tent are all included. Gears are up to you, though. Some high end tour agencies, usually charging over $5000 per person, will have extra porters carrying toilets, and communal dining tents for the group. I, of course, went for the cheapest I could find on the longest route, which ended up as about $1500. The climb is mostly just flat walking, and depend on the route, some harder sections. No advance techniques are required. There are more than 5 routes, and the most popular route is Machame, which can be done in 6 days even by my grandma. I chose Lemosho because it is supposed to be the longest but most beautiful, and I can say it was a great decision.
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 上圖：我的帳篷/Above: my tent
由於大部分時間都是在海拔3500米以上的地方度過的，一定要小心高原反應。喝大量的水，不要做不必要的耗體力的事情，以及一定要慢慢來，這在本地語言裡面叫做Pole Pole，幾乎是 乞力馬扎羅 山上的金科語言。你要是猴急網上跑，那你就很快會喘不過氣，頭痛無比，然後你就無法睡覺，也沒辦法吃東西，最終就是倒地暈厥。
Since a lot of the days will be spent above 3500m/11000ft, the prevention of altitude sickness is crucial. Drink lots of water, avoid physically strenuous activities, and most importantly, do not rush. In the Kili dictionary, it is Pole Pole, which means slow in the local tongues. This was almost regarded as the golden rule on this mountain. If you rush, you will found yourself out of breath, with severe headache that prevents you from sleeping, loss of appetite, and even fainting as you gasp for the thin air.
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 上圖：Mti Mkumba營地/Above: Mti Mkumba camp
回到正事上面，第一天就是在亞熱帶雨林裡面的泥濘小道上漫步，大門已經是2100米了，所以也就是一些小小的上坡下坡而已，Frank走的特別慢，看來他從第一天就要把Pole Pole進行到底。
Now let’s get back to the adventure! The first day was mostly damp temporal rainforest, as the gate was already sitting at 2100m/6900ft. The walk was very pleasant, just moderate ups and downs, and the mud trail was not especially slippery. Frank walked especially slow, as he was implementing the Pole Pole policy from day 1.
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 3小時的登山其實更像是在後院裡面繞圈子，我們可以聽得到迷霧深處猴子的叫聲，也看到了很多野豬挖出來的洞，我們在雲端深處也發現了很多種蘭花。
The 3 hour trek felt almost like a walk in the park. There were monkeys howling in the distance, and tr ace s of holes dug by boars could be seen everywhere. Different kinds of flowers and orchids were competing for my attention, and the thick fog signified that I was walking in the depth of the clouds.
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 四點之前我便走到了一片空地上，意識到這是我第一天的營地！這個地方叫做Mti Mkumba，意思是 大樹 之地，原因就在 大樹 把這塊地方像城牆一樣圍了起來，在管理員處登記入住之後，我坐在冰冷的水霧之中等待著我的帳篷被支好。由於我比Frank想象的快了1個小時到達，什麼都沒有的營地顯得百般無聊。
Before the clock stroke 4, I walked into a cleared piece of land, and I realized we were at the first camp! The name is Mti Mkumbwa, and it means giant trees, as they surround the campsite like a fortress wall. I had to register at the ranger post, and my tent was being set up. It was very chilly in the soggy mist, and I had absolutely nothing to do, since we arrived 1 hour earlier than Frank predicted.
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 上圖：登記處
Above: signing in
我四處張望著，希望找個人可以聊天，但是這個陰冷的下午怎麼會有人來找我這麼醜的人呢。我最終跑到了Frank和我們幾個背夫的帳篷裡面，發現他們那裡簡直是溫暖的像墜入愛河一般。一個小小的火爐上面架著我的晚餐，一些煎雞肉和魚排，所有人則在地面上鋪開的行囊上面休息聊天。在這個小帳篷之中，Frank和一行人吃喝拉撒睡全部解決，然而在我還沒有完全熱起來之前，那個作為服務生的那個背夫告訴我晚餐快好了，讓我回到我的帳篷裡面等待，他要開始把東西帶給我了。我爬回我冰冷的帳篷之後一會兒之後，湯，土豆，牛油果，魚，一道一道菜都很快呈現在我的面前。哆嗦了那麼久之後能吃到這些實在是太高興了!我把盤子也都添了個乾凈之後很快便倒在了睡袋裡面。我把所有不必要的東西全部都留在了 阿魯沙 ，所以沒有書可以讀，沒有手機可以玩（沒電又沒網），沒有隊友可以聊天，也沒有女朋友可以談情說愛，只不過我已經完全習慣沒有女朋友了。
I stood around, shivering in the wet cold; it was not the most comfortable afternoon in my life. I eventually walked into the tent that Frank and all other porters shared. It was WARM LIKE FALLING IN LOVE. A stove was going on, with my dinner. Some chicken and fried fish-bubbling on it, and everyone sat on the bags and on the ground. The porters and guides sleep, eat, and cook in it. One of them, the waiter, told me he would bring me my food to my tent, so I crawled back into my cold tent. After shivering for another while, I was served a great soup, and then a hearty meal with potatoes and fish. Oh boy that was so great… I wiped the plate clean, and asked for some more. I passed out quickly after, since the sky got quite dark and there was nothing to do. I left all unnecessary items back in Arusha. No books to read, no internet (no phone signal and no electricity), no tentmate to talk to, and no girlfriend to cuddle with, ok I am joking I already got very used to the last one. 第二天：高山雨林--->高地灌木原
Day 2: alpine rainforest —> highland moorland
爬升高度：1200米/4000英尺
elevation gain: 1200m/4000ft
我在日出之前的清晨被一陣喧鬧吵醒，Frank告訴我今天我要比其他人起得早，這樣子我就可以在所有人之前出發，享受最純凈的早晨。只有我的這幾位背夫完全忙開了，剩下其他人的那些才剛剛起床，或者還是呼呼大睡，一頓簡單的早餐之後，我快快的把行囊裝好，成為了離開營地的第一個人。迷霧已經在晚間緩緩地移動到了更低窪的地方，所以我可以看得很遠很遠。我們所經之地，猴子們都悉悉嗦嗦地跳了開來，而這片原始森林早已充滿了早起鳥兒的清脆叫聲，叮咚跳躍的小溪，還有無數的蝴蝶。
I was awoken by the commotion in the camp before dawn. Frank had told me that I would have to wake up earlier than others, because I am just awesome, or so I could enjoy the trail without disturbance. Only the tent of my group of porters was bustling at that time, as everyone was still either waking up or dead asleep. I quickly had my breakfast, which consisted of some pancakes and other stews, and packed my things. I could leave my tent behind as the porters were in charge of assembling and taking it apart, so I could get under way as the first person leaving the camp. Interestingly, I did not have to sign out of the ranger station, so I was walking on the trail with Frank just after sunrise. The fog/cloud had retreated to lower altitude already, so I could see very far. Monkeys scurried away as we moved past their territory, and the pristine forest was filled with bird chirps, tiny streams tingling with water, and butterflies.
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 第一個小時是很簡單的上坡路，之後我們走出了樹木線， 大樹 緩緩地被一種特殊的低矮灌木而取代，而視野也變得格外的寬闊。我可以一路看到山底的小鎮子。
The first hour went by as a very easy uphill walk, until we walked out of the tree line. The trees slowly gave ways to a special kind of bush land, and the views became much wider. I could see all the way downhill to the towns.
下圖：高山雨林導致樹上長滿了苔蘚
Below: high humidity caused proliferation of mosses on trees
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 在那之後，爬升開始變得比較艱難了，接下來兩個小時坡度一下子陡增，到十點鐘時候，我們來到了一個自帶內部天氣的超深峽谷，需要我們先下到最下麵然後再爬上另外一邊。十一點時分，我便已經累得不行了，看起來午餐地還有很遠一段距離，“再堅持15分鐘就好了！”Frank告訴我。其實他就是在騙人的！
Then the climb became very gruesome. The altitude kicked in, and the slope became significantly steeper for the next good two hours. By ten o’clock, we were in the middle of a huge valley which itself had some unique habitats. We had to climb down the valley and climb up the other way. By 11 a.m., I was exhausted already, but it looked like it was still a long way to the lunch stop. “Just 15 more minutes!” Frank said. Well, he lied.
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 我花了整整一個小時來到了Shira一號營地，儘管比大家都提早了一些，有一些背夫已經在路上超過了我們，但是他們都像沒了命一般地跑，完全不顧體力流失，原因就在於他們的團隊今日的終點就是這裡，但是超級牛×的我只是把這個地方當做午餐地而已，而在下一個營地安營扎寨。
It took me a good 1 hour of walking to get to Shira I camp. Quite a handful of porters had already taken over us despite our headstart. However, they ran like crazy, and their actual destination for the day was this camp, while our goal was to skip this camp so we could speed up the climb. The other climbers I met yesterday were all heading this way, and their porters were busy building their tents, while I was just this good that it became my lunch spot.
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 上圖：Shira 一號營地/Above: Shira I camp
我們一行人在Shira一號吃了一頓現煮的午餐，休息了一個小時之後繼續往上。到這個時候已經有一些其他的登山者來到了營地了，但是等待著他們的是很多個小時的孤寂，對於他們來說他們今日的目標已經達成了，而我才剛剛走了一半。在路上我甚至還超過了一些今天早上從Shira一號出發的一些人呢！灌木植被很快被小小樹叢代替了，這個朝南的山坡上又冷風又大降水也少，所以對植物來說是很不利的地點。我為了營造氣氛開始聽起了音樂，這樣子我就不容易註意到其實那時候我已經非常的疲憊了。
We had an awesome hot lunch at Shira I, and after a good hour of break, I was ready to continue. By that time, some of the climbers also had reached the camp, but that was their end of ascent that day, while I was barely half way. I continued climbing, and before too long I even overtook a few people who had departed Shira I camp this morning! The bush quickly disappeared as this side of the mountain has much harsher winds and less precipitation. I had reached some kind of grasslands which is absolutely stunning. I turned on my phone with some Imagine Dragon songs, and the climb became really pleasant. It was very gentle, but I had some large distances to cover.
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 上圖：在山澗裡面打水
Above: fetching water in streams
這樣子的行走又持續了4個小時，最後一段還變得特別陡峭。 大樹 從變成了小樹叢，而小樹叢也很快變成了迷你樹叢，沒過很久只能看得到一小坨一小坨的雜草了。由於Shira二號營地沒有水源，我還要像最早探險這一部分的探險者一樣從山澗裡面打雪山 融水 ，不過我最終還是踏上了在山脊上坐落著的Shira二號營地。
The climb continued for a good 4 hours, and the last stretch suddenly became very steep. Big bushes gave way to small bushes, and small bushes gave way to tiny bushes, and quickly there were only tiny blobs of grass left. Since Shira II had no water, I had to get some water for myself on my way up the hills. I filled up my bottle with fresh snow water, just like the early explorers did, and I eventually reached the camp, which was located on top of a ridge.
下圖：Shira二號營地
Below: Shira II camp
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 上圖：這可能是世界上最高的游客反饋箱！
Above: this may be the highest suggestion box in the world!
一開始，景色也就是和我之前看到的沒什麼差太多，雲霧遮蓋著若影若現的山巔，和前幾天一樣。我找到了一群其他人，發現他們也是 加拿大 人，女兒也在 美國 讀書，他們的團隊是一個高級登山隊，還有專門的餐廳帳篷，而我只能坐在睡袋裡面獨自吃著一個人寂寞的晚餐。。。他們的晚餐煮好了，所以不得不離開我，但是與此同時我發現雲霧不知道在什麼時候消散了，所以我一個人看到了這幅壯麗的景象。
The view was pleasant initially, but there were clouds covering the peak of the mountain. I talked with a few other trekkers who turned out to also be Canadians, and their daughter was also studying in USA. They were on a luxury trek, which included a public tent for all their members of the team. Well, and look at me, just a small tent with incalculable amount of solitude. They eventually had to leave me be as they had to eat dinner, and I found out that the clouds cleared out. The view of the peak was simply breathtaking.
下圖： 乞力馬扎羅 山巔
Below: Kilimanjaro peak
↑乞力馬扎羅國家公園 從我的小小帳篷裡面慢慢目送了太陽下山之後，寒冷的山風把我逼進了睡袋裡面，我睡得很香，夢見了我並不是一個人爬這座山，讓我嘴角微微一揚。。。
After watching a glorious sunset from my tent, it became really cold so that I had to retreat into my sleeping bag. I had a great night of sleep, and I dreamt not being alone on this climb, and that made me smile in my slumber.
This is part 3 of my journey through the world in 2016. For the newcomers, I have prepared portals to the other journals written before.
第一部分： 澳大利亞 西部北部/Part 1: West Australia, North Australia
http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7279190.html
第二部分： 肯尼亞 大草原/Part 2: Kenyan savannah
http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7344302.html
註：
英語和中文由於翻譯原因內容可能不完全一致
攻略在游記最後，但是游記裡面也有大量實用信息，強烈建議先閱讀游記（無恥推銷）
Note:
Due to translation, English and Chinese contents may not exactly agree.
The guide is at the end of the journal, but since the journal itself also contains a lot of useful information, I highly suggest you read the journal first.
People always say: it is good to have dreams. However, to me, realizing a dream is the mightiest of them all. People always strive forward, and if I want to do something, I want to do it to the best. Now let's challenge another wonder of the world: highest peak in Africa, Mt. Kilimanjaro.
行程：
上接： 肯尼亞
第一天：坦肯邊境---> 阿魯沙
第二天： 阿魯沙 \---> 乞力馬扎羅 山國家公園
第二天到第七天：通過Lemosho爬山道登頂 乞力馬扎羅 山
第八天： 阿魯沙
第九天： 阿魯沙
第十天： 阿魯沙 \--->達埃斯 薩拉 姆
第十一天：達埃斯 薩拉 姆
第十二天：達埃斯 薩拉 姆---> 盧薩卡
下接： 贊比亞
Itinerary:
previously from: Kenya
Day 1: border of Kenya and Tanzania--->Arusha
Day 2: Arusha--->Kilimanjaro National Park
Day 2-7: summit attempt of Kilimanjaro via Lemosho trail
Day 8-9: Arusha
Day 10: Arusha--->Dar Es Salaam
Day 11: Dar Es Salaam
Day 12: Dar Es Salaam--->Lusaka
continue to: Zambia
The crowded shuttle bus came to a halt in the muddy town of Arusha. Yin and I were greeted by the local operator and shuttled to our hotel, a bleak building on the corner of a relatively central street. The tour agency we were associated to was at the bottom floor of this hotel, and we quickly figured out our itinerary. Yin was gonna continue with even more safari, while I switch my gears and would climb Mountain Kilimanjaro. We met up, AGAIN, with Ausarine and Joao, and decided to go for some pizza in the local expat restaurant called Blue Heron. It was simply OUT OF THIS WORLD.
Above: girlfriend? who needs that when you have pizza?
餐館的花園非常漂亮，服務生也很友善，更何況還有一個很不錯的露天用餐區。但我們也不管那麼多了，直接如猛虎撲食一般把整隻整隻的披薩吞了下去，之後摸著圓圓的肚子回到了賓館準備明日的各自行程。晚餐我們則選擇了賓館樓下有點坑歪果仁的餐館，嘗試了各種本地菜之後，我們還一起幹了一瓶 乞力馬扎羅 牌啤酒！這瓶啤酒是我給自己 成功 登頂的提前獎勵，當然在以前這種提前獎勵從來都沒有發揮過它應該發揮的作用。。。
The restaurant had a great garden, awesome staff, and a chic outdoor seating area. We could not care less as we were all starving, and munched down entire pizzas with no issue, later returning to the hotel preparing the next parts of the trips by ourselves. We met again downstairs for our dinner, and decided to go lazy and just eat in the slightly overpriced, okay, quite overpriced, in-hotel restaurant. We had a great dinner, with all kinds of random local food, and of course, the famous Kilimanjaro beer! Now that is some reward I gave myself before I finished climbing that mountain, and it is called preward! (which never worked)
下圖： 阿魯沙
Below: Arusha
Day 1 : tropical drylands ---> alpine rainforest
爬升高度：550米/1800英尺
elevation gain: 550m/1800ft
隔天一大早，我和Yin,Ausarine和Joao到了別，他們要一同去賽倫蓋蒂，而我則要去登頂 非洲 。我和我的嚮導Frank，一個被歲月滄桑拂過臉頰，戴著一頂老舊的登山帽，穿著一雙更老舊登山靴的中年人，見了面。他絲毫沒有緊張或者是激動，所以他肯定在這一行做了很多很多年了。我們倆和一起負責登山隊伙食的廚師，還有兩個背夫一起登上了麵包車。我難以按耐住內心的雞凍，萬一我在接下來的這幾天在一同的登山隊裡面遇到一輩子的好朋友呢？
Upon morning, I had to bid farewell to Yin, Ausarine, and Joao. They would continue to Serengeti, while I head west for the highest point in Africa. I met with my guide Frank, a slightly weathered man with a lot of wrinkles on the side of his eyes. He bore an expedition hat, and some long boots. The fact that he seemed very calm made me suspect he had done this business for many years. We hopped onto the transport along with my gears, and I was beyond excited for who would be joining me in the climb of lifetime. What if I make a best friend out of this experience? 但是我實在是錯得不能再錯了。
那之後我的帳篷，食物，煤氣爐，登山杖，都被拿了上來，我們也遍上了路。
“還有其他人嘛？”我隨口問了一句。
Frank笑了笑：“啊哈，就只有你一個人。”
噢，原來是這樣的啊。
我原本算得好好的，如果我故意選擇最便宜的 乞力馬扎羅 山項目，那我肯定可以遇到其他人，因為很多便宜的團喜歡把好幾個地方報名的人集合到一個團裡面，呵呵，我見過的最貴的團也一般都至少有5個人。和我之前的十幾年一樣，我又要一個人繼續我無比孤獨的旅程了。我們的麵包車在一個大路口停了下來，大家一起吃早餐，之後由於我選擇了一條比較少人使用的線路，我們要從西面繞到步道口。很快水泥路變成了土路，所有的東西都被甩得在車廂裡面亂撞，當然，在我們的一個輪胎爆掉了之後一切都停了下來。
I WAS WRONG. I WAS SO GODDAMN WRONG.
My porters got onto the van a few minutes later, and then my chef, and then their gears, and then the stove, the food, the tent, the trekking pole, and we were on our way, riding off on the Tanzanian highway. "Are we expecting anyone else?" I asked. Frank replied with a smirk:"No, it is just you."
OH.
Of course, the best experience in my life always just consist of me, myself and I. I went for the cheapest option out there for a Kilimanjaro climb, and normal logic goes that the cheaper it is, the more people they will try to cram into one group. Heck, even all the other expensive groups were more than 5 people usually. Maybe it was because I am just too ugly or had such a bad attitude, people went out of their ways to avoid being in the same group with me, how do I know! Anyways, this was gonna be an extremely lonely journey as well, just like all of my previous experiences with life, which did not forbode well. (much lonely, very complain, wow) The minivan carrying my expedition team made a stop for breakfast, then continued west, instead of everyone else's north, because I wanted to take a different route for the summit, which I will talk about later. We traded the highway for a narrow road, and then for a dirt one, and then for a dirt one that has more craters than the moon. Everything was tossed around in the vehicle, until one of our tires busted.
整整20分鐘浪費在了修輪胎上面，要爬山了我還是很激動，只不過有一點小小的惆悵，這次在山上我要一個多禮拜孤獨地行走了。由於備用輪胎無法承受太大的壓力，我們只好慢慢的開往國家公園。我們耍大牌一般的姍姍來遲，抵達了混亂不堪的Londorosi大門。游客們剛吃好午餐，背夫們正在按照國家要求每個人稱重20公斤，由於以前背夫背50多公斤上山總是會出事掛掉。而嚮導們則忙著填表彙報，司機們努力地抓緊時間搬東西。
It took us some good twenty minutes to fix up the tire with the backup one. I was still excited, don’t get me wrong, but I was just a bit dejected for being so lonely. This time it would be on a mountain above clouds, for a solid week. We then slowly made our way to the Kilimanjaro National Park, since the backup tire could not take too much pressure. We arrived fashionably late at the Londorosi Gate, which was absolutely a mess during this hour. People were finishing up lunch, and the porters were busy weighing their bags, since park regulation restricts the weight each person can carry to 20kg. The guides were busy filling up the forms for park entry, and drivers were busy loading/offloading goods and gears.
下圖：大門已經是2250米高了！
Below: the gate is already 2250m amsl!
幸好越小的團隊過關越快，所以我們一個小時後，大概下午一點時分，便繼續向西前行了，這個大門只不過是所有人做入園報告的地方，而我的路線Lemosho登山路要從半小時開外的Lemosho大門門口開始。這個大門門可羅雀，由於這條線路是最長的，但是是最美麗的風景線路，而趕時間的匆匆看客或者對登山不熟悉的人都只會走更短的線路。
We stayed for about an hour there since it was faster for smaller groups, and we were able to get back to the van around 1 pm. This was not the gate we were heading out for, but used for all the formalities. After about half an hour, we were at Lemosho Gate, where my route, Lemosho Route, officially began the climb. This gate was much quieter, since Lemosho was the longest route and most scenic, all people here were hardcore climbers, as others prefer shorter routes.
下圖：激動地無法自拔
Below: excited as fuck
Before I actually start detailing the journey to the top of Africa, I think I shall entertain you with some background information. The Kilimanjaro mountain is sitting at 5895m/19300ft in northern Tanzania. It is a volcano but is long dead. It is also the closest pl ace to equator to have permanent snow, as well as the tallest free standing mountain, meaning that it has the biggest prominence of any mountain. The climate ranges from tropical in the bottom to polar at the peak, which makes climbing itself a trip around the world as well. To reach to the top, one has to hire a guide and porters. Usually, every two to three people need a guide, and each person needs at least 4 porters to carry the food, the pots and utensils, the tent, the gas tank and other utilities. This results in a huge number of staff travelling with a group, sometimes a bus full of porters and guides just for a group of 5: remember, the porters and guides need their food and tents as well. Thus, in most of the time, you just see porters going fast and passing you, with very few climbers on the way. They usually go very fast ahead of the climbers, so they could reach the camp to set up the tent and cook for them. The porters used to be able to carry 50kg+, until some ugly accidents prompted the park to limit the weight to 20kg. One porter also functions as a waiter for the group, serving the climbers their food, water and warm water for washing. Another one is the chef, who has to prepare meals which can be tricky, since some affected by altitude sickness may lose their appetite.
下圖：晚飯~！/Below: dinner!
Climbing the roof of Africa is not cheap. The normal price ranges from $2000 to $3000, and on top of it, tip for every porter involved in your group. The standard is $10 per porter per day, so it can add up significantly if you have a bus full of them. Other than that, it is all inclusive, as the guide fee, the food, transportation, park entrance, and tent are all included. Gears are up to you, though. Some high end tour agencies, usually charging over $5000 per person, will have extra porters carrying toilets, and communal dining tents for the group. I, of course, went for the cheapest I could find on the longest route, which ended up as about $1500. The climb is mostly just flat walking, and depend on the route, some harder sections. No advance techniques are required. There are more than 5 routes, and the most popular route is Machame, which can be done in 6 days even by my grandma. I chose Lemosho because it is supposed to be the longest but most beautiful, and I can say it was a great decision.
由於大部分時間都是在海拔3500米以上的地方度過的，一定要小心高原反應。喝大量的水，不要做不必要的耗體力的事情，以及一定要慢慢來，這在本地語言裡面叫做Pole Pole，幾乎是 乞力馬扎羅 山上的金科語言。你要是猴急網上跑，那你就很快會喘不過氣，頭痛無比，然後你就無法睡覺，也沒辦法吃東西，最終就是倒地暈厥。
Since a lot of the days will be spent above 3500m/11000ft, the prevention of altitude sickness is crucial. Drink lots of water, avoid physically strenuous activities, and most importantly, do not rush. In the Kili dictionary, it is Pole Pole, which means slow in the local tongues. This was almost regarded as the golden rule on this mountain. If you rush, you will found yourself out of breath, with severe headache that prevents you from sleeping, loss of appetite, and even fainting as you gasp for the thin air.
回到正事上面，第一天就是在亞熱帶雨林裡面的泥濘小道上漫步，大門已經是2100米了，所以也就是一些小小的上坡下坡而已，Frank走的特別慢，看來他從第一天就要把Pole Pole進行到底。
Now let’s get back to the adventure! The first day was mostly damp temporal rainforest, as the gate was already sitting at 2100m/6900ft. The walk was very pleasant, just moderate ups and downs, and the mud trail was not especially slippery. Frank walked especially slow, as he was implementing the Pole Pole policy from day 1.
The 3 hour trek felt almost like a walk in the park. There were monkeys howling in the distance, and tr ace s of holes dug by boars could be seen everywhere. Different kinds of flowers and orchids were competing for my attention, and the thick fog signified that I was walking in the depth of the clouds.
Before the clock stroke 4, I walked into a cleared piece of land, and I realized we were at the first camp! The name is Mti Mkumbwa, and it means giant trees, as they surround the campsite like a fortress wall. I had to register at the ranger post, and my tent was being set up. It was very chilly in the soggy mist, and I had absolutely nothing to do, since we arrived 1 hour earlier than Frank predicted.
Above: signing in
我四處張望著，希望找個人可以聊天，但是這個陰冷的下午怎麼會有人來找我這麼醜的人呢。我最終跑到了Frank和我們幾個背夫的帳篷裡面，發現他們那裡簡直是溫暖的像墜入愛河一般。一個小小的火爐上面架著我的晚餐，一些煎雞肉和魚排，所有人則在地面上鋪開的行囊上面休息聊天。在這個小帳篷之中，Frank和一行人吃喝拉撒睡全部解決，然而在我還沒有完全熱起來之前，那個作為服務生的那個背夫告訴我晚餐快好了，讓我回到我的帳篷裡面等待，他要開始把東西帶給我了。我爬回我冰冷的帳篷之後一會兒之後，湯，土豆，牛油果，魚，一道一道菜都很快呈現在我的面前。哆嗦了那麼久之後能吃到這些實在是太高興了!我把盤子也都添了個乾凈之後很快便倒在了睡袋裡面。我把所有不必要的東西全部都留在了 阿魯沙 ，所以沒有書可以讀，沒有手機可以玩（沒電又沒網），沒有隊友可以聊天，也沒有女朋友可以談情說愛，只不過我已經完全習慣沒有女朋友了。
I stood around, shivering in the wet cold; it was not the most comfortable afternoon in my life. I eventually walked into the tent that Frank and all other porters shared. It was WARM LIKE FALLING IN LOVE. A stove was going on, with my dinner. Some chicken and fried fish-bubbling on it, and everyone sat on the bags and on the ground. The porters and guides sleep, eat, and cook in it. One of them, the waiter, told me he would bring me my food to my tent, so I crawled back into my cold tent. After shivering for another while, I was served a great soup, and then a hearty meal with potatoes and fish. Oh boy that was so great… I wiped the plate clean, and asked for some more. I passed out quickly after, since the sky got quite dark and there was nothing to do. I left all unnecessary items back in Arusha. No books to read, no internet (no phone signal and no electricity), no tentmate to talk to, and no girlfriend to cuddle with, ok I am joking I already got very used to the last one. 第二天：高山雨林--->高地灌木原
Day 2: alpine rainforest —> highland moorland
爬升高度：1200米/4000英尺
elevation gain: 1200m/4000ft
我在日出之前的清晨被一陣喧鬧吵醒，Frank告訴我今天我要比其他人起得早，這樣子我就可以在所有人之前出發，享受最純凈的早晨。只有我的這幾位背夫完全忙開了，剩下其他人的那些才剛剛起床，或者還是呼呼大睡，一頓簡單的早餐之後，我快快的把行囊裝好，成為了離開營地的第一個人。迷霧已經在晚間緩緩地移動到了更低窪的地方，所以我可以看得很遠很遠。我們所經之地，猴子們都悉悉嗦嗦地跳了開來，而這片原始森林早已充滿了早起鳥兒的清脆叫聲，叮咚跳躍的小溪，還有無數的蝴蝶。
I was awoken by the commotion in the camp before dawn. Frank had told me that I would have to wake up earlier than others, because I am just awesome, or so I could enjoy the trail without disturbance. Only the tent of my group of porters was bustling at that time, as everyone was still either waking up or dead asleep. I quickly had my breakfast, which consisted of some pancakes and other stews, and packed my things. I could leave my tent behind as the porters were in charge of assembling and taking it apart, so I could get under way as the first person leaving the camp. Interestingly, I did not have to sign out of the ranger station, so I was walking on the trail with Frank just after sunrise. The fog/cloud had retreated to lower altitude already, so I could see very far. Monkeys scurried away as we moved past their territory, and the pristine forest was filled with bird chirps, tiny streams tingling with water, and butterflies.
The first hour went by as a very easy uphill walk, until we walked out of the tree line. The trees slowly gave ways to a special kind of bush land, and the views became much wider. I could see all the way downhill to the towns.
下圖：高山雨林導致樹上長滿了苔蘚
Below: high humidity caused proliferation of mosses on trees
Then the climb became very gruesome. The altitude kicked in, and the slope became significantly steeper for the next good two hours. By ten o’clock, we were in the middle of a huge valley which itself had some unique habitats. We had to climb down the valley and climb up the other way. By 11 a.m., I was exhausted already, but it looked like it was still a long way to the lunch stop. “Just 15 more minutes!” Frank said. Well, he lied.
It took me a good 1 hour of walking to get to Shira I camp. Quite a handful of porters had already taken over us despite our headstart. However, they ran like crazy, and their actual destination for the day was this camp, while our goal was to skip this camp so we could speed up the climb. The other climbers I met yesterday were all heading this way, and their porters were busy building their tents, while I was just this good that it became my lunch spot.
我們一行人在Shira一號吃了一頓現煮的午餐，休息了一個小時之後繼續往上。到這個時候已經有一些其他的登山者來到了營地了，但是等待著他們的是很多個小時的孤寂，對於他們來說他們今日的目標已經達成了，而我才剛剛走了一半。在路上我甚至還超過了一些今天早上從Shira一號出發的一些人呢！灌木植被很快被小小樹叢代替了，這個朝南的山坡上又冷風又大降水也少，所以對植物來說是很不利的地點。我為了營造氣氛開始聽起了音樂，這樣子我就不容易註意到其實那時候我已經非常的疲憊了。
We had an awesome hot lunch at Shira I, and after a good hour of break, I was ready to continue. By that time, some of the climbers also had reached the camp, but that was their end of ascent that day, while I was barely half way. I continued climbing, and before too long I even overtook a few people who had departed Shira I camp this morning! The bush quickly disappeared as this side of the mountain has much harsher winds and less precipitation. I had reached some kind of grasslands which is absolutely stunning. I turned on my phone with some Imagine Dragon songs, and the climb became really pleasant. It was very gentle, but I had some large distances to cover.
Above: fetching water in streams
這樣子的行走又持續了4個小時，最後一段還變得特別陡峭。 大樹 從變成了小樹叢，而小樹叢也很快變成了迷你樹叢，沒過很久只能看得到一小坨一小坨的雜草了。由於Shira二號營地沒有水源，我還要像最早探險這一部分的探險者一樣從山澗裡面打雪山 融水 ，不過我最終還是踏上了在山脊上坐落著的Shira二號營地。
The climb continued for a good 4 hours, and the last stretch suddenly became very steep. Big bushes gave way to small bushes, and small bushes gave way to tiny bushes, and quickly there were only tiny blobs of grass left. Since Shira II had no water, I had to get some water for myself on my way up the hills. I filled up my bottle with fresh snow water, just like the early explorers did, and I eventually reached the camp, which was located on top of a ridge.
下圖：Shira二號營地
Below: Shira II camp
Above: this may be the highest suggestion box in the world!
一開始，景色也就是和我之前看到的沒什麼差太多，雲霧遮蓋著若影若現的山巔，和前幾天一樣。我找到了一群其他人，發現他們也是 加拿大 人，女兒也在 美國 讀書，他們的團隊是一個高級登山隊，還有專門的餐廳帳篷，而我只能坐在睡袋裡面獨自吃著一個人寂寞的晚餐。。。他們的晚餐煮好了，所以不得不離開我，但是與此同時我發現雲霧不知道在什麼時候消散了，所以我一個人看到了這幅壯麗的景象。
The view was pleasant initially, but there were clouds covering the peak of the mountain. I talked with a few other trekkers who turned out to also be Canadians, and their daughter was also studying in USA. They were on a luxury trek, which included a public tent for all their members of the team. Well, and look at me, just a small tent with incalculable amount of solitude. They eventually had to leave me be as they had to eat dinner, and I found out that the clouds cleared out. The view of the peak was simply breathtaking.
下圖： 乞力馬扎羅 山巔
Below: Kilimanjaro peak
After watching a glorious sunset from my tent, it became really cold so that I had to retreat into my sleeping bag. I had a great night of sleep, and I dreamt not being alone on this climb, and that made me smile in my slumber.
