暮色中行,摩洛哥
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沙漠中的瘋狂車手
炙熱的下午,漫無目的,在CAFÉ RESTAURANT MERZOUGA打點,這裡是進出Golden camp的集中地~
等到16:30,我選擇乘坐免費的越野車進入沙漠營地,而不是大多人選擇的駱駝騎行~
心裡一直有個疑問,這麼重的汽車是怎麼在柔細的沙子上行駛,現在即將解答,進入沙漠的入口就在昨晚酒店的旁邊~
我們的司機幾乎無話,看他氣定神閑的模樣,是個老江湖,只見他在沙丘間急速行駛,不帶半分猶豫,某些時候繞路而行,行車線路瞭然於心;最嚇人的部分,是沿著沙丘盤旋俯衝和上升,嚇得我反覆確認安全帶是否扣住,似乎每一秒都有翻車的可能~
然而,後排乘客緊張,前排司機還在不停地一邊抽煙一邊接聽電話~
這一趟比過山車還刺激的沙漠飛車,就算付費也是物有所值~
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沙漠中的營地
我倆是第一批到達Golden Camp的,這是一個處於沙漠深處的帳篷營地;喝過店家遞上的薄荷茶,我們拿到了1號帳篷~
以前,覺得在 撒哈拉沙漠 中留宿,只能睡在大通鋪內,沒水沒電沒網絡;現在,這個帳篷有大床有沙發,有電有熱水有Wifi,雖然只有Usb插口作為通電來源,但條件之優越超乎想象~
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沙塵暴來臨
附近一帶沙勢平緩,多家住宿營地都在此處建立,但因為如此,沒有了那種高低起伏一望無疆的大漠景觀,還好有了今早在沙丘頂端的收穫~
不經意之間,發現天空分成了兩邊,一邊天空爽朗,一邊則灰濛蔽日,甚為詭異;突然間,我們想到了傳說中的沙塵暴~
回到營地,見工作人員正在將所有地毯捲成一條,把柱狀物放倒在地上,有序不紊地進行著,看來沙塵暴對他們來說只是一個“常客”而已~
回到帳篷後,“灰雲大軍”很快駕臨,帳篷被風沙打得噼里啪啦響,但仍然穩如 泰山 ,沒有半絲動搖;帳篷外的世界正被狂風肆虐著,沙塵滾滾~
心想,正在騎駱駝前來的客人是怎麼度過的~
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寧靜的夜晚
營地的晚餐20:00才開始,沙塵暴早已過去多時,沙漠深處再度回歸寧靜~
帳篷餐廳的每張桌子都有燭光,按頭盤、湯、副食、主食、甜點的西餐順序遞上 摩洛哥 餐,一位名為默罕默德的先生見我鐘愛 摩洛哥 湯,給我添了第二碗,以致我沒有空餘的食量吃完主菜~
如此晚餐,即使身在大漠中也不失浪漫~
隔壁營地的篝火晚會早已熱火朝天,我們的才剛剛開始,這群柏柏爾人身兼多職,既是侍應也是演員,他們敲著 非洲 手鼓,唱著聽不懂的歌詞和飄忽的旋律~
我的焦點,還是離不開頭頂上浩瀚的星空,這種在房間門口就能看到清晰銀河的機會,在過往經歷中是絕無僅有的~
坐在沙地上,眼睛看著相機在長曝光連拍,嘴巴和來自 美國 舊金山 的Shoabe閑聊,竟然還由我教會了 美國 人一個單詞—dromedary~
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不完美而又完美的早晨
次日早,康同學不願起床,也是情理之中~
藉著電筒光離開營地,尋找日出觀賞點,等找到稍微理想的地點時,天色已接近全亮~
這是一個多雲的早上,太陽出來打完招呼後就躲進雲層之後整天不見人了,但走後留下了一片驚艷的火燒雲~
不完美的早晨,令這個撒哈拉的旅程完美了~
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