登頂“赤道雪山”乞力馬扎羅山—11歲女孩獻給自己成長中的禮物
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晚飯後6:45回到帳篷,鑽進睡袋翻來覆去睡不著,綿羊數個遍……淺睡眠狀態中聽見waiter喊起,經過幾天的訓練,我們已經能夠熟練地在狹窄空間穿戴整齊,然而高海拔讓每一個動作都很吃力,走出帳篷都會深深地喘口氣!
10:00叫起床,喝熱茶吃餅干,11:00出發沖頂!三個嚮導和一個背著8磅熱水瓶的背夫總共四人帶領我們四個隊員Twende Twende,我們出發啦!照例助理Stuward走在前面,小妖緊跟其後, 海倫 ,Micheal,我…
大家各自戴著頭燈,頂著滿天星星,伴著睡意,踩著月光走在陡峭的懸崖壁上,開啟了我們的夢游旅程!一路上不停地聽到PolePole(慢點慢點)。隨著海拔的不斷提升,我們機械地挪走、緩慢地移動,起初,東西姐玩笑說:像不像第五元素里的!不一會,只見Micheal左攔右擋,原來倆姑娘邊走邊睡,左搖右晃,我趕緊插上去轉身對Micheal說,我護小妖,你護 海倫 ;之後,我就跟一母雞式的張開雙臂,小妖往右倒,就伸右手擋,往左晃,又伸左臂攔……這種狀態起碼持續了兩小時。接著小妖開始喊頭有點疼,我摘下手套,伸進口袋抖抖索索地摸出昨晚偷偷省下來的最後一 包頭 痛粉,背夫及時拿杯子倒了開水兌好,我問 海倫 :你怎樣?小姑娘輕輕說:我頭也有點痛。那就一人一口share。繼續Pole Pole,山越來越陡,依舊之字形來回攀援,此時不停有後面其他team的人趕超,周圍黑黢黢,只有頭燈在移動,我們借助頭燈的光亮看好腳下稍稍側身避讓,然後繼續堅持僵屍走。不知道走了多久,小妖說:媽媽,我覺得頭不那麼疼了,但好想哭,聽罷,我安撫她:別哭,再堅持一下,你和 海倫 非常棒!說這話的時候我按捺不住內心的激動哭出聲來,淚點太低,的確是感動孩子的頑強!但瞬間意識到這個時候哭也是很耗氧的,硬生生的把哭泣憋回肚里!隨著海拔上升到5300左右,狀態最佳的我開始感到太陽穴一緊一抽,雖不至於頭痛欲裂但明顯感覺到緊箍咒的威力,但堅持吭聲,心裡明白此時任何一句泄氣的話和舉止都會動搖軍心。堅持堅持再堅持!一搖一晃地挪動腳步,沒有停歇。一時忍不住仰頭遠望,遠處高掛的星星和前方登頂人流的頭燈混雜在一起,哇嗚!怎麼還那麼高那麼無止境,移動幾個小時還望不到頂,恍惚間意識到不動的是星星,晃動的是登頂的人兒。仰頭帶來的後果是頭痛加劇,接著開始犯暈,但意識是清醒的,於是開始胡思亂想:我的心跳加速啦,會不會出意外啊……這樣高海拔高寒地帶會不會突然心梗倒地?簡直是自己嚇自己!多次抬腕看表,按出心率113上下,沒超120,這才踏實地低頭繼續挪步子。期間2:30、4:50看了兩次表,期盼黎明到來!天亮就能到頂!
迷糊中眼前地面開始隱隱見白,啊啊啊!雪!上雪線啦!此時天際露出魚肚白,精神為之一振,倦意消除大半,以為快到山頂!殊不知,最後在覆蓋著薄薄積雪的峭壁上繼續爬行了1小時,終於在6:18 分到達STELLA POINT5756,整個人立馬興奮起來。儘管這個火山口的風像刀子一樣刺扎在裸露的皮膚上,還是情不自禁摸出手機拍下美麗的霞光和日出,小妖和 海倫 則帶著哭腔對我說:不想走了,太冷了。
哦哦,峰頂在5895,還有約140米的海拔,放眼望去,滿目碎石和冰川,轉彎山脊上整整齊齊的一隊人馬緩慢地堅定地邁向最後的制高點!此刻,非常清楚按我的狀態與速度繼續前行約1個半小時能到UHURU PEAK5895,往返需要3個小時,我非常想繼續朝前,轉身看見拍完照的倆丫頭坐在岩石旁避著風,兩個嚮導分頭在替他們搓手、哈氣保暖,再次感動小姑娘的堅持與勇敢,實在不忍再拖著他們走完最後一段,東西姐上前說,你讓嚮導帶你繼續,我陪倆孩子跟助理先下撤。快速地內心爭鬥一番,非常明白只要再堅持一下就可以圓滿,而且,最後這一小段就是靠心懷“堅持”,但是,最終決定同進同撤!為不留遺憾,脫掉上衣穿著運動BAR秀了幾張,很有“山登絕頂我自為峰”的快感!就此,我的人生高度刻畫在 乞力馬扎羅 的5756米!
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