南極—那至今未知的大陸,究竟能窺探到什麼?
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有30多個衝動的人參加了,結果是女子跳水隊完勝男子跳水隊,姑娘們的韌性在極端環境中充分體現,男人們下水大多呲牙咧嘴,姑娘們還能舒展的游幾米,這大概就是以柔克剛的良好詮釋,女人們的力量不同於男人,卻不一定會弱。
在跳水隊施展的時候,附近來了一隻企鵝,海水清澈,可以非常清楚的看到它在水中圓滾滾而靈活的身軀快速閃回,時不時衝出海面蹦躂一下,那個欠欠的樣子就像一種挑釁:“看這裡看這裡,這樣才是跳水。”
當天的登陸可以登高,每一次登高對我來說都有驚喜,總有一種偷瞄一眼上帝視角的竊喜。
“天高地迥,覺宇宙之無窮;興盡悲來,識盈虛之有數”。
高處的空氣總是更清新,高處的視野漸次展開。不同於城市或山林, 南極半島 上的登高,遠處儘是飄渺的冰山被霧氣縈繞,天色如畫,不仔細看很難辨別真與畫。
立定後被冷空氣和雪山包圍,時間開始往回倒,歷史,人生甚至宇宙的空曠感紛至沓來,再睜眼好像已經激烈的跑過了一大段時光,留下一些渾身舒透的冷靜。
南極的生物間廝殺相較於 非洲 草原要 和平 多了,賊鷗有時偷吃企鵝蛋,豹海豹偶爾以企鵝充饑,虎鯨捕食海豹……,雖然萌萌噠的企鵝看上去是最無辜的,但所有原住民面臨的最嚴酷的生存挑戰是自然環境。
在寒冷和冰凍面前,所有激烈衝突好像都被冰封了,大家都用盡渾身力氣各顯神通以活下去,看上去靜謐的環境,卻能讓人感受到非常強烈的求生欲。
當天天氣不錯,聖誕大餐就在甲板上BBQ了,華哥鐘情於烤羊排,連吃了兩盤之後再去要,廚師說你太厲害了,但羊排沒啦。
大家也都學會了辨識黑冰,即百萬年擠壓形成的 高密 度冰塊,光線通過率高而在海面上似乎泛黑的透明冰。華哥咬了一口,咬不動而且沒什麼味道。後來坐衝鋒舟巡游的時候,大家都會帶一些黑冰回船,每晚去酒吧的同志們就在甲板上取一小塊黑冰,泡酒喝。
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不愛告別,所以我一個人獃在圖書館里,享受了一段眾人出游我獨享一段偷來時光的快樂,繼續漫游了一段波瀾壯闊的前人奔赴南極之旅。
我們一共登陸和巡游了11次,皮划艇1次,露營1次,行程安排的很豐富。探險隊員也足夠專業和熱心,儘量滿足各種奇形怪狀的問題,尤其是語言無法溝通的時候,很多大哥就靠著“GOOD”和“YES”溝通了全程。
我們採訪了很多探險隊員為什麼選擇在南極工作,幾乎可以收穫每個人發自內心的熱愛,他們對南極都是真愛。
還有船上的一對皮划艇嚮導Ewan和Sophie,鐘情於自然間的生活。當我們聊到如何決策一個定居地的話題時,他們倆問我們:“首先,你喜歡熱一點的氣候還是冷一點的氣候?其次,你們喜歡山還是水?“,我跟華哥愣了一下,我突然意識到我們默認人是居住在城市裡的,而抉擇一個城市的因素可能是城市的人、城市面貌、就業機會、房價、教育水平……。
他們倆一下提醒了我們,我們看待問題的出發點就不同,這也是很多溝通誤差的起點。
然後我們順著自然、城市、文化差異聊了一晚上。
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