聖城奶與蜜,石路風逐沙:(超全乾貨攻略+游記)記兩個弱雞的以色列+約旦十日
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在三路買票,買了28號去eilat的票。大叔人很好,說有票,買了七點的。本來想買八點的,被告知現在只有7點或者10點的,中間8,9點的都沒有了。
然後去買公交卡坐公交去酒店。我們碰到一個幫忙游客的志願者說公交都要用卡(其實後面發現也有人用現金),而且辦卡還要照相。我還沒來得及把頭髮整理好,就被咔嚓照了相。弄了半天,終於搞定了。不確定存多少錢進去,就只存了30謝克爾。
出來找了半天公交車,用google地圖,又問了幾個人,最後等到了巴士。
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快到站的時候,我們站起來到門邊,司機卻沒有開門,可能因為我我們沒有按stop。我們就這麼被坐過站。
只好拖著行李箱往酒店走。上坡下坡真是好累啊。到了酒店,說下午兩點才能入住,我們只好先存了行李,少帶點東西出門溜達。
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離開酒店,第一件事是要換錢。聽說雅法門那邊沒有手續費,我們就往那個方向走。
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十幾分鐘的路,還沒走到雅法門,就被路過的一個mall攔下了(貌似叫Mamilla Mall)。進去吃了午飯。可能因為過節,裡面好多人啊。感覺有點步行街的fu。
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然後就開始亂轉了,決定先去苦路十四站,從聖墓大教堂開始吧。
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來段馬蜂窩的介紹:
“聖墓的各個部分被基督教的不同分支教派所控制,基督教主要分為七個教派,其 中希腊 東正教派、 亞美尼亞 教派和 羅馬 天主教主要瓜分了聖墓教堂的各個財產。由於教派紛爭厲害,爭鬥不止,1757年國際仲裁組織判定,以當時爭端發生時的範圍為永久範圍。
教堂內每一釘子、蠟燭、石頭都登記在案,分歸各個教派所有,還有些是共管區。從教堂正門望去,前面的院子是屬於 希腊 東正教的,而通往前院的樓梯屬於 亞美尼亞 教派。樓梯最後一級臺階是屬於院子的延伸部分還是樓梯,兩派爭執從未停止,甚至在1920年有2位教士因此被殺。
關於教堂內部各部分的歸屬之爭更是變本加厲,到目前為止還毫無休止的跡象。各派長年爭鬥的結果就是聖墓教堂大門的鑰匙是掌管在阿拉伯望族手中,每天早晨由其負責打開大門。”
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進入聖墓大教堂,我都完全忘了耶穌死後給他抹油膏的石板就在這裡。於是一進去看到這個,感覺簡直太快進入高潮了吧,一點準備也沒有。人也不算很多,很多教徒虔誠的跪在那裡摸石板。感覺這麼幾千年下來,這塊石板不知道被多少人摸過啊。看上面還有一點紅色的印跡,不知道是不是耶穌的血呢?
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