DAY 8 在路上,邂逅安達盧西亞的醇美與熱烈——慄子姐兒倆15天西葡兩國自由行紀行
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忽然看見街邊把角兒有個小餐吧,好些當地人在吃早餐,於是決定先吃早餐再好好逛。小餐館也就擺著三四張小桌,大部分人都擠在吧臺上坐著高凳子吃。看看好象每個人都點了乾白麵包片外加一碟西紅柿醬和橄欖油,我倆以為是當地特色早餐,在吧台邊坐定,也就跟著點了。兩個伙計很和善,手不停地倒咖啡烤麵包遞水收錢,熟練得一塌糊塗。吃著乾麵包片加西紅柿醬覺得很寡淡,小慄遍尋四周,發現旁邊小桌子一女子正在吃肉夾饃,就是麵包片加火腿片,於是立刻跟伙計說要火腿片,指著那女子嘴裡的食物說半天,也不知火腿 西班牙 文怎麼說,正著急,小慄急中生智,指著吧臺上吊著的一大塊火腿,右手手指併攏對著左胳膊開始做片肉的動作,伙計立馬明白了,用血乎刺啦不堪忍受的表情阻止小慄的血腥動作,笑呵呵地切了盤薄薄的火腿片。小慄為自己的行為藝術洋洋自得,大口地開吃,透明的火腿片在嘴裡溢出最鮮香的味道。
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早飯完畢,開始舊貨市場旅程。好大一片街道,曲里拐彎地全佈滿了地攤。擺攤的感覺有很多外國人, 東歐 的 非洲 的,反正比較窮的樣子,用小本錢躉點便宜貨來賣,還有一些老者,看著像是當地居民,可能是長期從事這種交易。貨的品種真是繁多,什麼破玩意都有,粗看一遍,有一部分也是像國內舊貨市場里的假造舊貨,批量生產,再埋地里潑點尿什麼的做舊吧, 比如 差點買的一 個舊 銅熨斗,挺沉,但看著真像尿鹼銅銹,沒買就對了。還有一些比較獨特的,二慄感興趣的, 比如 舊郵票啦燈啦銅製品呀,不過一問價,還真不比 北京 的那家舊貨網店便宜呢,燈什麼的起步價就是四五十歐,銅勺子鐵鑰匙也得20多歐,尤其一把很精美的理髮小剪子,也要50多歐呢,這麼貴也沒特喜歡的,也就算了。
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最後買了一些舊郵票(1歐50張,很值),兩塊手繪的弗拉門戈舞者的小瓷磚(顏色很艷麗,畫面逼真,真是漂亮,最喜歡的戰利品,5歐一塊),一塊舊懷錶(10歐,這個倒很便宜,可以做個別緻的項鏈墜)還有8 個舊 銅大頭釘(很簡潔的設計,質感很棒,小慄說以後裝修時肯定很出彩,2.5歐一個)。有個老者賣的綠玻璃銅臺燈品相還可以也不貴,15歐,不過太難帶了,只能算了。就這麼逛了一上午,轉了兩遍,也算不虛此行吧,看著花花綠綠的小玩意,二慄心滿意足啊。
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小慄說要回小農貿市場買水果,沿原路返回,在水果攤上挑了無花果和紅莓黑莓。都不貴,2歐左右1公斤,看著很新鮮,顏色也漂亮。轉著轉著,發現這市場最後一溜是大排檔,賣鮮榨果汁和現炸海鮮。攤邊一排塑料桌椅,客人隨便坐著喝啤酒吃燒烤。呵呵,這不錯呀,街邊小吃一定別有風味。
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二慄開始仿照別的客人點了啤酒和炸小魚,後來明白了,開始隨心所欲瞎點,炸魷魚,炸大蝦,西紅柿腌肉,麵包塊,橄欖,哎呀,太豐盛了,味道也特別鮮美。尤其是炸魷魚和腌肉,特合二慄口味,最後再來點飯後水果,剛買的無花果,真甜,這品種是 歐洲 的,國內沒見過,個兒很大,紫紅的皮,淡紅帶青色的瓤。紅莓黑莓也都很甜,隨便洗洗就生吃了,也沒見大慄拉肚子。這會兒正是 西班牙 小黃瓜大腸桿菌泛濫的消息甚囂塵上之時,大慄以身體力行粉碎了這個謠言, 西班牙 食品乾凈得很,Nothing can stop us!
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酒足飯飽,二慄暈乎乎地走在 塞維利亞 的午後街頭,居民區里街靜人稀,公共汽車在綠蔭里駛過,商店關門開始下午休息,只有接孩子的母親在車站等車。那份安靜與舒適,有點像八十年代的 北京 衚衕,陽光斜斜地撒在街道上,讓人覺得時光好象就是這樣用來被懶洋洋地消磨掉的。
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