冰火仙境與世界盡頭之十二(秘魯·庫斯科Cuzco)
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下圖果品小袋中裝的,就是曬乾後的古柯葉。
隨後的兩天里,試著沖泡和咀嚼了若干。體驗是,高反依舊是高反,這需要時間適應。而不是你帶著 西藏 的紅景天,或者是這南美的古柯葉。
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從機場到這家叫做 La Quinta Restaurant的店里享用午餐,四下窗臺的小擺件,滿滿的南美風情。
細嚼慢咽虹鱒魚之餘,當初 西藏 和 香格裡拉 的高反感覺終於來襲。喝水吃飯說話總是引起咳嗽,還有腰膝酸軟和瑟瑟寒顫。
後悔昨日猶豫了一下,還是把布洛芬寄存在了 利馬 的酒店里。看來你又高估了自己的身體。
飯店一側的馬路旁,是一家叫XIMA的酒店,那是兩天后從馬丘比丘返回之後的宿處。
飯後的第一站,太陽神殿。
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太陽神殿
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古印加帝國其主體民族的印加人,是美洲三大文明之一——印加文明的締造者。印加文明與瑪雅文明、阿茲特克文明並稱為"印第安三大古老文明"並稱為 中南 美三大文明。
去年讀《槍炮、病菌與鋼鐵》,那些改變和征服,那些血淚死亡和融合重生,無外乎賈雷德·戴蒙德在這部鴻篇巨著中總結的這三個原因。皮薩羅也不例外。
太陽神廟早已在 西班牙 人來到以後變得滿目瘡痍,能保存下來已經是奇跡。 這得益於 西班牙 人並沒有把印加人的神廟城牆完全銷毀,而是在它們的基礎上再建自己的教堂,修道院。而這裡原本所有的金碧輝煌都轉移到了在隨後建立的天主教堂里。
坐在晴空之下的神廟迴廊間,穿越時空,和改變了這個世界的皮薩羅腳印重疊。
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第二站武器廣場。
在南美,每一個首都,乃至每一座城市幾乎都有一個武器廣場(Plaza de Armas)。當初 西班牙 人在拓展殖民地的過程里,每建立一個城市都是建立起一個武器廣場而逐漸以此為中心發展起來的。廣場上一貫的建築首先是教堂,其次是市政廳總統府類似的行政建築。
大教堂內的金碧輝煌不能簡單以金碧輝煌來形容,其涵蓋的歷史和文化意義非同尋常。內部不允許拍照,之於這篇游記的受眾,只能從門票上一窺其端倪。這裡最著名的藏品,莫過於“最後的晚餐”,不過不是達 芬奇 的原畫,而是Marcos Zapata的模仿之作創,耶穌和他門徒面前的餐桌上擺的竟是印加人的佳餚—豚鼠 。
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