親歷天堂·環游世界200天 贊比亞【中英&附攻略】Zambia & Victoria Falls
小時候的一首古詩說“疑是銀河落九天”，我也真的是不知道為什麼他會這麼描述瀑布的，但是我在看過其他人對 維多利亞 大瀑布的描述之後才意識到他們的表達方式都太差了，還是我們 中國 人對這種壯麗的景象描述的更好一些。
本篇游記是我的環游世界200天的第四部分，我強烈推薦先去讀其他的幾個部分，特別是 肯尼亞 的那篇介紹了我出發的動機，前面的幾個部分鏈接如下：
澳大利亞 西部和北部(North/West Australia)： http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7279190.html
肯尼亞 大草原動物遷徙(Kenyan savannah)： http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7344302.html
坦桑尼亞 登頂 非洲 最高峰(Tanzania summitting Kilimanjaro)： http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7458176.html
This is part four of my series in my 200 days around the world. I strongly recommend you read other parts before this first, especially the Kenya one which details my motivation to do this. The links are above.
註：中英版本由於翻譯原因可能不同,我的中文不好請見諒。
Note: the Chinese and English contents may differ due to translation. I apologize for my lack of English proficiency.
行程：
第一天： 盧薩卡
第二天： 盧薩卡
第三天： 盧薩卡 \--->列文斯通
第四天： 維多利亞 大瀑布，日落游船
第五天：拜訪當地村落
第六天：列文斯通---> 約翰內斯堡
第七天： 約翰內斯堡 \---> 多哈 \---> 愛丁堡
Itinerary:
Day 1: Lusaka
Day 2: Lusaka
Day 3: Lusaka ---> Livingstone
Day 4: Victoria Falls, sunset boating
Day 5: visiting local villages
Day 6: Livingstone ---> Johannesburg
Day 7: Johannesburg ---> Doha ---> Edinbourgh
我睡眼惺忪的走進了到達大廳。深夜兩點了，只有一個略顯肥胖的黑人大媽在唯一開通的一條入關線內給那8個從我這架飛機上走下來的人慢悠悠地蓋章。大部分人都是留在飛機上繼續前往 津巴布韋 首都的 哈拉雷 ，還有很多人要在這裡轉機去 馬拉維 的利隆偉。我把我的護照交給了大媽，然後也給了她信用卡，在她隨性的一刷之後，我的荷包縮水了50美金，但是我的護照上面多了一張皺巴巴的貼紙簽證，原因就在於她連續兩次都貼歪了，所以就要重新扯下來然後再貼上去。更要命的是，她還把我的名字弄錯了。。。我走出行李大廳的時候還準備著要被一大群人圍著拉攏著推推搡搡爭相搶生意，世界上機場都一個樣嘛，結果外面什麼都沒有，一個人也看不到，連流浪狗都沒有一隻，只有深夜蛐蛐尷尬的叫聲。。。
I walked into the immigration hall with a sleepy eye: it was 2 a.m. Only one line was open, and only 8 passengers got off the airplane. Most of them were heading to Harare, Zimbabwe, where the plane would continue to, or transferring to Lilongwe, Malawi. I handed my passport to the lady, and handed her my credit card as well. She swiped it for 50 dollars of visa fee, slapped a piece of sticker onto my passport, fucked up in doing so and awkwardly tore it off just to slap it on again, filled in my name and allowed stay duration, (and she wrote my name wrong), and waved me away. I walked out of the terminal, expecting a line of taxi waiting and a lot of drivers hustling, like every other airport, but I was wrong.
真的也是一輛車也沒有，一個人也沒有，我勒個去去。我站在航站樓外面簡直無法相信這個國家最大的機場居然什麼東西都沒有，這還是我這麼多年來周游世界的第一次。五分鐘之後，當我意識到我所處的境地和整個 中國 影業的未來一樣絕望的時候，一個人靠近了我，他甩著手裡的車鑰匙，抖著腳，問我：“要出 租車 嗎？”我看了看，思考著我如果今天單身一輩子之後死在這個地方到底值不值，仔細思考了一下之後覺得我反正也是死而無悔了，怎麼樣都要單身一輩子的，於是乎我跳上了他髒兮兮的本田車。
There was no car, no human, or even a dog. Nothing. Nada. I stood in the chilly night dumbfounded. I thought I was in the biggest airport of a country’s capital, but it felt like I was standing in the middle of the jungle and ready to do some camping. After 5 minutes of walking around and looking for something alive, a person approached me. He asked: taxi? And I looked at him, and feared that if I said yes I would be taken to a slaughterhouse and be fed to hungry pigs. It was the shadiest taxi driver I had ever seen. He wore a pair of jeans and a dark blue shirt, while swinging his car keys and shaking his left foot. He took me to his toyota sedan, and I silently made a prayer as he loaded my bag into the trunk. I needed to pay him 250 Kwacha (local currency, about $25) to be thrown into a ditch in middle of Zambia, great.
貌似他自己也不是很清楚到底我住的地方是在哪裡，所以在問了好多個人之後，我終於安全的到達了我的青年旅社。這是一個小小的四合院，裡面是一個沒有人用的泳池，還有一個一直人滿為患的酒吧。還好我只是有點敏感（去了這麼多地方我其實很少這樣子的，相信我，各種瘋狂的事情我都做過了），其實這個出 租車 司機還是不錯的。
However, after some asking around and turning around, (apparently he had no idea where my hostel was) we finally arrived at the hostel. He was actually a nice guy, and I realized this was as legit as taxi could get in Lusaka. Well, just me overreacting I guess, but it is quite rare for me to do that.
安穩的一個晚上之後，我發現 盧薩卡 和我之前去過的好幾個 非洲 首都一樣， 達累斯薩拉姆 和 內羅畢 都沒什麼特別吸引國外游客的地方。我唯一能做的事情就是去商場裡面走一圈。結果發現這個商場居然比我們在 加拿大 的一些商場還要好，有一家 非洲 的盜版肯德基，叫做饑餓的 獅子 ，我去嘗試了一下，結果7美元的美食居然吃的我飽飽的。
I slept awfully well, and woke up to a beautiful day. Lusaka, like Nairobi and Dar Es Salaam, has little interest for foreign travellers. The only thing I could see myself doing was going to the mall. I had a lovely breakfast, and took a walk in the local street. I found out that the mall was quite nice, actually VERY NICE. It was definitely better than my local mall back in Canada, anf it features 1 dollar ice cream!!! Seriously! 9 kwacha for a cone? sign me the fuck up! I think I just fell in love… They also have this KFC-like restaurant called Hungry Lion. I ordered a huge combo meal, and it ended up only costing me 7 dollars, and oh my sweetcorn it was great.
↑盧薩卡 
↑盧薩卡 上圖：饑餓的 獅子 餐食/Above: Hungry Lion Meal
我也非常欣賞他們的超市,不但非常的乾凈整潔，還非常便宜。我覺得我的期待值實在是太低了，所以這樣子現代化的商場真的著實讓我驚訝。永遠不應該因為一個國家很窮就認定了他們的生活質量也是非常差的，我就覺得這個商場甚至比我在 加拿大 的商場還要好呢！
I also greatly enjoyed their supermarket. It was l avis hly decorated, and I think it surpassed my local Whole Foods with literally 1/10 of the price. All kinds of local fresh produce and international imports lined the well-decorated aisles. Homestyle bread, jam, salad, pasta, and cured meats all were made in store with some very friendly prices. I cannot praise the supermarket more, as you can see, and I guess it has something to do with expectations. Never underestimate a country just because you have never heard of it. Some of the less developed countries have much better facilities than USA or Canada in a lot of cases that I have encountered, and this mall in Zambia is the prime example!
↑盧薩卡 上圖：商場/this cannot be real, it is my perfect market
之後我去了公交總站，需要去買一張去列文斯通的車票。5個多小時的車程只要十塊錢美金。整個站頭上全是各種商店，小販，還有很多推銷巴士票的人。再去了超市買了些東西之後，我回到了青旅享受了一杯啤酒。
I paid a visit to the bus terminal as well. I needed a ticket to Livingstone, and I got one for under 10 dollars for this 5 hour ride. The entire terminal was a huge hodgepodge of bus, shops, people hustling, and just endless touts circling around me like pesting flies. I ended the day with more food in the supermarket and some beer from the bar in my hostel.
起床之後便是準備打包前往列文斯通的巴士的時候了。十點半我向 盧薩卡 道別，這幾天很悠閑，也給我沖滿了電，以便應對之後的冒險。
I woke up to pack and prepare for my bus ride down to Livingstone, and I boarded the bus right on time. At 10:30, the bus slowly rolled out the station, and I waved Lusaka goodbye. It was a relaxing time, thanks, Lusaka.
大約三點多時候，我來到了列文斯通，走了一點路來到了Jollyboys青旅之後，我發現這裡無事可做。既然沒有事情做，當然就要去吃晚餐啦~！
I arrived at the township of Livingstone around 3 pm. I went to the Jollyboys hostel and found nothing much to do besides hanging out by the cool pool and drinking expensive drinks. I decided to go for dinner because food=life>friends>basically everythinh else in life. I think all the delicious food I have not eaten is basically the only thing that supports me through those cold, lonely nights.
我來到了一家非常擁擠的餐廳，這個有名的小地方有一個很好玩的露天院子以供食客們擺放餐桌吃飯，我看了看今日的特別菜單，發現今天居然有羚羊 漢堡 ，抱著一個吃貨一定要唱遍全世界亂七八糟東西的精神，我果斷點了一個。要知道那些羚羊長什麼樣，請到我的 肯尼亞 篇去看看。
I arrived in a crowded restaurant. I was led to a table in the lovely backyard, and a candle was swiftly lightened up as light was dimming from the horizon. I looked at the menu, and saw the "daily special" billboard hanging by the counter. It said:"daily special: impala burger". Impala? HECK YEAH. Just in case you have not realized what it is, just look into my first part of around the world travel in Kenya. It has a lot of game viewing and of course, shows you how an impala looks like. I have the holy duty to try everything, especially food, so I had to order this.
很快夜晚降臨了，由於是冬天，我很快便感覺到了絲絲涼意，貼心的服務生們很快拿出了一個又一個火盆，一個桌子給一個，大的桌子給三個，而我的桌子一個也不給。單身狗的單身狗糧吃的真的又冷又寂寞啊。。。。
While it was not windy, it quickly got chilly. (let me remind you it was in the dead of winter) The wind swept through the garden like me sweeping through a cheap Asian buffet, and I was shivering even before my drink arrived. The staff started bringing out fire baskets to be put underneath the tables. Every other table quickly got one, and some big tables even got three, but I did not. Before I could think too much, I got my impala burger, and suddenly nothing in this world was a problem.
↑列文斯通 上圖：羚羊 漢堡 /Above: impala burger
很快我便把那個 漢堡 吞下了肚子，然後在毫無照明的漆黑夜晚之中走回了家，早上我起來趕上了前往 維多利亞 大瀑布的免費青旅班車，由於這個瀑布是 津巴布韋 和 贊比亞 的邊界，所以要看到完整的瀑布兩邊需要到兩個國家去才行。但是我看到了這種不講道理的簽證條款，想想還是算了吧。去 津巴布韋 ，不論是多久，都要付50美金簽證費，然後回到 贊比亞 的時候，還要重新入境，付50美元簽證費，去你的傻叉 非洲 國家，只要錢也沒想過為了多收簽證費你們不知道放置了幾十倍幾百倍的游客入境消費，撿了芝麻丟了西瓜。
I quickly devoured the burger, then walked the five blocks back home. I woke up to catch the hostel's free shuttle to Victoria Falls proper. The falls sit at the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. So in order to see all of it, you have to cross the border which is a hassle as the nearest border crossing is a solid hour drive. What deterred me was the horrendous visa fee. You have to pay $50 to enter Zimbabwe, even for 2 hours, and you have to pay $50 to re-enter Zambia even though you literally left that very morning. Maybe next time when I am visiting Zimbabwe, I guessed.
巴士把我們放在了國家公園大門，正好路上和我一起同行的還有前幾天認識的Tiffany和Katrina,一個 美國 姑娘，和一個 挪威 女生，Tiffany比較不像我們其他背包客，想要享受瀑布旁邊的五星級賓館的奢華早餐，於是我只能和Katrina一起付了20美金進入國家公園。我們早就聽到了瀑布隆隆震耳欲鳴的響聲了，也看到了從數從另一端冉冉升起的百元，本地語言裡面這個瀑布的名字就叫做“雷煙”。幾分鐘之內激動無比的我便走到了瀑布的旁邊。
The bus dropped us off at the entrance to the park. On the way I was lucky enough to re-connect with Tiffany and Katrina whom I briefly talked with the previous day. Tiffany (from Colorado) wanted to enjoy herself at a luxury hotel by the edge of the falls, as she had already been to the park before. Katrina (from Bodø, Norway) and I then paid $20 to enter the Victoria Falls National Park. Before we enter, we could already hear the crashing sound and see the rising smoke from the falls. In the local language, it has the name that literally means “smoke that thunders”. Within a quick walk, we were beside the edge in no time. Katrina took a great shot of me along with my excitement.
↑列文斯通 上圖：快看我多麼的雞凍！！/Above:look how happy I was~!
真的是太壯觀了，世界上沒有任何辭藻可以修飾這個瀑布的偉大景象，濃濃的濕氣遇上了 非洲 的教養，形成了兩道彩虹。
It was absolutely amazing, and there is little that I can say to justify its might. The moisture met the sun, creating a double rainbow.
↑維多利亞瀑布 上圖：大自然母親的鬼斧神工/Above: this is what mother nature can do
水勢實在是太強烈了，在河面上50多米的我們還是感覺到貌似天空一直在下著雨。
The water clashed with rocks so vehemently that caused the rising moisture to become some kind of constant drizzle even 50 meters above the surf ace .
↑維多利亞瀑布 Katrina與我繼續往深處進發，這麼美麗的景象幾乎讓每一名游客都無法專心的看路。瀑布從懸崖的一遍滑落，從 贊比亞 延伸到 津巴布韋 足足有500多米寬，像是一牆的瀑布到處都是，然後掉進這深溝溝的最底端，從另一邊懸崖當中的一個缺口流出來，像是一個T形狀。
Katrina and I explored further, and the fascinating features just kept our eyes on two sides. The waterfall comes down into a gap in the Earth from one side, which stretches from Zambia to Zimbabwe for more than 500m. It was basically a wall of waterfalls when we viewed from the other side. It then falls into the canyon, and there is an opening on the other side, making the water flow a T shape.
↑維多利亞瀑布 感覺就像是整個蒼穹都在你幾十米開外的面前噴泄而下，它的一切也跟著它一路往下，雲彩，星星，甚至電閃雷鳴，全部都一股腦的再往下沖。我從來沒有感受到這麼令人敬畏的奇觀了。
It was truly a marvel to behold, a wall of water falling into the deep canyon just a few dozen meters from you, like the sky is falling along with its clouds, its stars, its thunder and its linghtning. I had not felt such fear of this world for such a long while. This is the kind of things that makes you humble, and willing to learn from mother nature.
↑維多利亞瀑布 上圖：思考人生/Above: Young pondering life
↑維多利亞瀑布 這裡還有一個很壯觀的鐵路橋，100多年前建造出來的跨河大橋。
There was also a railway bridge that spanned across the deep trench, and it was built more than 100 years ago.
↑維多利亞瀑布 上圖：遠眺瀑布/Above: the falls from afar
之後咱倆決定下到瀑佈下面去感受它的美麗，但是在下去的路上，很不幸，殺出了一群陳咬狒狒擋住了去路，很大，很大的狒狒。
We then decided to go down to the depth of the canyon, and view the waterfall from beneath. However, before we could hike down, the path was conjested with a clusterfuck of baboons. Yes, baboons, big, scary baboons. And they were doing something that humans should feel ashamed of.
↑維多利亞瀑布 上圖：狒狒吃垃圾/Above: baboons eating trash left by tourists
他們終於吃完了垃圾，放行我們前行，但是這個很陡的山坡上面全是他們的領地，而有幾隻狒狒非常的好奇，很想看看我們背包裡面是啥，於是乎，幾隻很強壯的公狒狒試圖著搶奪我們的包，但是我如英雄救美一般保護著Katrina(的包)，他們終於在十分鐘之後放棄了。一隻狒狒很喪氣地坐在了長椅子上面，於是乎我用了一個自拍去安慰它。
After they were done with the garbage, we finally started our descent. It was a steep climb, and we were surrouunded by baboons: it was their territory. They seemed to take a particular interest in backpacks like Leonardo DiCaprio’s interest in tall blonde girls. (seriously, look it up, I will wait here, I am not going anywhere) It was a crazy struggle with them, because they had some incrdible skills sneaking up on us, and they were outrageously strong. I eventually refused long enough so that they gave up. One of the males sat on a bench, quite vanquished. I sat down with him, and comforted him with a selfie.
↑維多利亞瀑布 (＾－＾)V
來到了下麵之後，我們才發現河流的一個急轉彎把大部分的瀑布都擋住了，所以唯一看得到的只是一些很壯觀的橋景而已啦。打開 三明 治包，坐下來看著湍急的河水，一起享受一頓野餐吧~！
The bottom was the entrance of a river into the major falls. The bend, however, perfectly blocked the waterfall. As a result, we only had some great views of the bridge from below. Katrina and I sat down in the rock pile, quietly watched the feirce water blow by.
↑維多利亞瀑布 上圖：從下向上看鐵路橋/Above: railway bridge from the bottom
在回去的路上，我們聽到了三個女生此起彼伏的尖叫聲，原來一隻大狒狒攻擊了她們，把他們的包都拽走了！東西掉的滿地都是，剩下的都跑到了狒狒的嘴裡面去了。
After a while, we returned back up and wanted to go back to the hostel. However, on our way back, we heard the traumatic screaming of three girls: the baboons attacked and tore apart their backpacks like I tear apart chicken tenders! Stuffs were scattered all around, and the rest were deep inside the baboons’ mouth. Well, apparently they were not a fan of that selfie.
回到鎮子上之後便是下午茶的時間了，本來要去看的一家7-11（著名連鎖便利店）結果發現是山寨的，裡面其實是專門賣各種酒的專賣店！傍晚時分就是要去贊比茲河上面游船晚餐的時間啦~！到了之後大家才發現，與其說這是一條船，還不如說這是一個漂浮的平房。
Upon returning from the park, we had some great meals in one of the cafes. We originally wanted to go into the store that was dubbed “7-11” and found out it only had alcohol! A 7-11, FULL OF ALCOHOL!!! Let that sink in for a while. After the food, we got ready for a boat ride~! woohoooooooo~! We were picked up by a bus and led to the Zambezi riverside. It was more like a floating shack with an engine than a boat.
↑列文斯通 上圖：再美妙的 非洲 大河上烤肉大概是世界上最好的工作了吧。
Above: probably the best job ever, barbeque artist on a boat in Africa
↑列文斯通 上圖：我們的“船”/Above: the shack
在船上大家都撒開了性子吃喝玩樂，反正酒也是無限自助的，河裡面全是河馬，岸上也有好多大象，甚至還有一條鱷魚游過了我們身邊！
We had a great dandy ol’time on the boat with unlimited alcohol, food and fun. A lot of hippoes could be seen around the area, and elephants as well, we even saw a crocodile swimming right next to us!
↑列文斯通 上圖：大象的鼻子長啊長/Above: elephants!
夕陽漸漸地往西邊的河面沉下，只留下了一群飛鳥在烤肉的裊裊青煙之下歸巢。
The sun slowly descended into the forested horizon, leaving a flock of birds flying back to their nests.
↑列文斯通 上圖：贊比茲的日落/Above: sunset in Zambezi river
我們在 贊比亞 的夕陽下結束了這一天，我們喝完最後一瓶啤酒的時候，小船也停靠在了碼頭上面，一個篝火冉冉升起，這一美妙的 維多利亞 大瀑布之行也在木頭慢慢燃燒的聲音之下結束了。
We slowly finished our beer and our ride, and quickly the beautiful day ended. The boat, uh I mean the shack, slowly docked and a bonfire was set up. It was a great day, as the smoke of the fire slowly faded in the starry sky…
第二天早上，我加入了另外一群人來到了一個本地的小村莊，結果發現另外的三個妹子就是昨天被狒狒偷襲的那幾個受害者：Sara, Sneade和Claire，她們仨爭先恐後的向我描述了昨天的情況到底有多麼的驚險，當然也沒有忘記往裡面添一些油加一點醋，說好十點青旅來接我們的車子十點多好幾分鐘才來，結果我們發現居然是一輛本地選舉的競選車。這輛 新民 主戰線的競選車配備了 非洲 競選的必須配件，當然你先得知道 非洲 是怎麼競選的。這裡每個黨派都買了好多 皮卡 車，然後把後面裝上超大號的擴音器，只要在移動的時候他們就不停地瘋狂播放專門為這個競選人寫的動次打次韻律超強的歌，每一首都是贊頌這個人的領導能力以及他的個人魅力的。然後車裡面的每一個人，包括了司機，都要穿上競選用的T恤然後把整個身體探出窗外瘋狂揮舞旗子。。。話會正傳，我們的司機對使用這公家車載我們去村莊非常的抱歉，但是我們一點也不覺得，我勒個去我們可以做這裡本地有名的大輪子尖叫花痴擴音器3000了！！！！在司機大叔把三個喇叭馬力全開之後，整個車子立刻進入了振動模式，我還把頭探了出去，一邊揮著旗子一邊大叫著競選標語，我和這個候選人八竿子都打不著關係，我也完全不知道他是保守派還是進步派，但是我才管不著呢！
Next morning, I joined another group to tour the local village. I happened to join the three girls who fell victim to the baboons yesterday: Sara, Sneade, and Claire. They re-iterated to me how scary the situation was, and added a little more “excitement.” We waited for the pickup at 10, but at 10:10, some guy showed up with a car we never expected. It was a campaign car for the New Democratic Front. If you don’t know how they campaign for votes in Africa, you are about to have a treat. They drive around with big pickup trucks with huge loudspeakers mounted at back. They play songs specifically written for the party and the candidate, telling how good they are and why you should vote them. Then have everyone dressed up in the party t-shirts, and everyone sticks his/her body out waving flags and shouting slogans, yes, that includes the driver. Back to the story. He apologized profusely of using a politics car to send us to the village, but we were exactly opposite of that: we were goddamn excited. We asked him to turn on the loudspeakers, and the entire van instantly entered earthquake mode. I even stuck my head out of the sky window, flying a banner, and screamed “VOTE OMAR!!!!!” I had 0 idea who Omar was, what his policies were, what position he was running, etc. But as you can see, I cannot give more fucks.
↑列文斯通 上圖：給奧馬爾投票啊！！！/Above: VOTE FOR OMAR! 
↑列文斯通 上圖：莫名其妙的被卷入了政壇/Above: unknowingly got involved in local politics
一行人非常有形的來到了村落裡面，我那時候已經把整個標語當做風衣一樣披在了身上，以190分貝的聲音尖叫著“奧馬爾！！！！”我很肯定很多村民這輩子再也看不到這樣子的情形了，那之後一個村裡面的人帶著我們走了一圈，示範了他們是怎麼去水井取水的，我幫他們打了一些水，而女生們則洗了不少盤子和碟子。
We arrived into the village in style, with me wearing the banner like a cape, with music screaming “OMARRRRRRR” in 190 decibels. I say we got everyone’s attention. We were then led through the village and given a tour. We saw how they get water from underground hand pumps, and we helped some kids wash dishes and plates.
↑列文斯通 上圖：一個小男孩/Above: the villagers and a troubled boy
之後我們拜訪了他們的種植園地，和放牧的動物們，甚至還有一個給孩子們免費教育的私塾，由於國家的公立學校需要一年60美金的學費，而絕大部分人又出不起這麼昂貴的學費，所以窮人的孩子沒有教育，就會繼續延續下去窮養窮的惡性循環。而這所私塾就是為了打碎這個歷史的車輪而設立的。
We saw the plantations, and animals they herd. They even took us to an initiative which had the goal of providing children with free education. The public education system demands 60 dollars a year, which a lot of families cannot afford, and the children go uneducated, and continue the poverty cycle. This free home-run school is aimed at stopping it.
↑列文斯通 上圖：在自家門口的一個小女孩/Above: a girl by her front door 
↑列文斯通 上圖：妹子們和本地小孩子玩耍/Above: the girls playing with children
我們的最後一站是一個本地人的家，她會親手在自家門口幫我們做一頓可口的本地午餐，其實家裡面根本沒有廚房，所以她們也只好在家門口做飯了。她的房子已經算是村裡面最好的了，至少她的是磚塊壘起來的，幾乎所有其他房子都是泥巴和茅草做的，有專門的人做房子框架然後有專門的人糊泥巴上去，然後你就有可以最多支撐五年的一個小房子啦，垮掉了之後重新造一個唄。女主人做了一個非常類似於我在 乞力馬扎羅 上面和背夫吃的那種玉米糊糊(請見上一篇游記)，加上了一個很鹹的菜下飯，啊不對，下糊糊。它是一種菠菜加鹽水然後混上大量的敲碎花生做出來的鬼東西，但是真的好好吃~！我們狼吞虎咽把一鍋全部吃掉了之後和女主人討論了關於 贊比亞 現狀的一些瑣碎事情，和她的兩歲女兒道別了之後依依不捨的離開了。
We eventually ended up at a local’s house, and the owner would prepare us a local meal right in front of her doorstep: because there is no kitchen in the house. Her house was already one of the best in the village: it is made of bricks. Almost every other house is made of mud and straws. Usually you pay some men to make a straw frame and a satched roof, and then pay some women to fill the frame up by mud. Wala, you have a house that can last 5 years! When it collapses, you do it all over again. This house made of bricks, however, can last a lot longer. She cooked a similar starch-glue made of corn that I tried with Frank on my Kilimanjaro trek. She also made a dish that is salty to accompany with it, just like what the porters did on the mountain. It is spinach with tomatoes in salty water, added with crushed peanuts. It was SO GOOD. We all devoured the dish along with the corn starch, and talked about the situation in Zambia and the village. We waved goodbye to her 2-year-old daughter as we left.
↑列文斯通 上圖：燒東西本來就是醬紫的/Above: cooking, the original way 
↑列文斯通 上圖：哦你好呀~！/Above: oh hey there~!
一行人回到青旅之後便圍坐在了一起說笑，Fiagra, Katrina, Claire, Sneade, Sara全部都到齊了，我甚至還認識了一個過幾天就要去 上海 工作的 德國 小伙Till，大家打罵開玩笑，啤酒一瓶接著一瓶的開，夜也漸漸地越入越深了。。。
We got back and talked a lot. Fiagra, Katrina, Claire, Sneade, Sara were all there, and it was definitely a great circle of conversation. I also got to know a German named Till, who would work in Shanghai for a while! We talked and laughed and joked and argued, and the night quietly fell upon us…
早起之後我打車來到了列文斯通國際機場，我不想和那群熟睡的異地親人說再見，所以這隻是一個暫停而已，再次相聚的時候，我們繼續聊。。。辦理完了登機手續之後，很快我坐上了列文斯通前往 約翰內斯堡 的 大英 航空商務艙，對的， 大英 航空有來回 約翰內斯堡 和 贊比亞 以及 津巴布韋 的航班。2個小時的商務艙感覺真的是不夠呢。
I woke up early and took a taxi to the Livingstone Airport. I didn’t want to say goodbye to all these great people, and I chose to let the conversation hang in there, so that we can continue when we meet again. Quickly I arrived at the airport, and checked in to my business class flight to Johannesburg, operated by British Airways. Yes, BA operates flights within South Africa and between Zimbabwe/Zambia and South Africa. The flight was only 2 hours, and business class made it even smoother.
↑列文斯通 上圖：列文斯通機場/Above: Livingstone Airport from the tarmac
本篇游記是我的環游世界200天的第四部分，我強烈推薦先去讀其他的幾個部分，特別是 肯尼亞 的那篇介紹了我出發的動機，前面的幾個部分鏈接如下：
澳大利亞 西部和北部(North/West Australia)： http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7279190.html
肯尼亞 大草原動物遷徙(Kenyan savannah)： http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7344302.html
坦桑尼亞 登頂 非洲 最高峰(Tanzania summitting Kilimanjaro)： http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7458176.html
This is part four of my series in my 200 days around the world. I strongly recommend you read other parts before this first, especially the Kenya one which details my motivation to do this. The links are above.
註：中英版本由於翻譯原因可能不同,我的中文不好請見諒。
Note: the Chinese and English contents may differ due to translation. I apologize for my lack of English proficiency.
第一天： 盧薩卡
第二天： 盧薩卡
第三天： 盧薩卡 \--->列文斯通
第四天： 維多利亞 大瀑布，日落游船
第五天：拜訪當地村落
第六天：列文斯通---> 約翰內斯堡
第七天： 約翰內斯堡 \---> 多哈 \---> 愛丁堡
Itinerary:
Day 1: Lusaka
Day 2: Lusaka
Day 3: Lusaka ---> Livingstone
Day 4: Victoria Falls, sunset boating
Day 5: visiting local villages
Day 6: Livingstone ---> Johannesburg
Day 7: Johannesburg ---> Doha ---> Edinbourgh
I walked into the immigration hall with a sleepy eye: it was 2 a.m. Only one line was open, and only 8 passengers got off the airplane. Most of them were heading to Harare, Zimbabwe, where the plane would continue to, or transferring to Lilongwe, Malawi. I handed my passport to the lady, and handed her my credit card as well. She swiped it for 50 dollars of visa fee, slapped a piece of sticker onto my passport, fucked up in doing so and awkwardly tore it off just to slap it on again, filled in my name and allowed stay duration, (and she wrote my name wrong), and waved me away. I walked out of the terminal, expecting a line of taxi waiting and a lot of drivers hustling, like every other airport, but I was wrong.
真的也是一輛車也沒有，一個人也沒有，我勒個去去。我站在航站樓外面簡直無法相信這個國家最大的機場居然什麼東西都沒有，這還是我這麼多年來周游世界的第一次。五分鐘之後，當我意識到我所處的境地和整個 中國 影業的未來一樣絕望的時候，一個人靠近了我，他甩著手裡的車鑰匙，抖著腳，問我：“要出 租車 嗎？”我看了看，思考著我如果今天單身一輩子之後死在這個地方到底值不值，仔細思考了一下之後覺得我反正也是死而無悔了，怎麼樣都要單身一輩子的，於是乎我跳上了他髒兮兮的本田車。
There was no car, no human, or even a dog. Nothing. Nada. I stood in the chilly night dumbfounded. I thought I was in the biggest airport of a country’s capital, but it felt like I was standing in the middle of the jungle and ready to do some camping. After 5 minutes of walking around and looking for something alive, a person approached me. He asked: taxi? And I looked at him, and feared that if I said yes I would be taken to a slaughterhouse and be fed to hungry pigs. It was the shadiest taxi driver I had ever seen. He wore a pair of jeans and a dark blue shirt, while swinging his car keys and shaking his left foot. He took me to his toyota sedan, and I silently made a prayer as he loaded my bag into the trunk. I needed to pay him 250 Kwacha (local currency, about $25) to be thrown into a ditch in middle of Zambia, great.
貌似他自己也不是很清楚到底我住的地方是在哪裡，所以在問了好多個人之後，我終於安全的到達了我的青年旅社。這是一個小小的四合院，裡面是一個沒有人用的泳池，還有一個一直人滿為患的酒吧。還好我只是有點敏感（去了這麼多地方我其實很少這樣子的，相信我，各種瘋狂的事情我都做過了），其實這個出 租車 司機還是不錯的。
However, after some asking around and turning around, (apparently he had no idea where my hostel was) we finally arrived at the hostel. He was actually a nice guy, and I realized this was as legit as taxi could get in Lusaka. Well, just me overreacting I guess, but it is quite rare for me to do that.
安穩的一個晚上之後，我發現 盧薩卡 和我之前去過的好幾個 非洲 首都一樣， 達累斯薩拉姆 和 內羅畢 都沒什麼特別吸引國外游客的地方。我唯一能做的事情就是去商場裡面走一圈。結果發現這個商場居然比我們在 加拿大 的一些商場還要好，有一家 非洲 的盜版肯德基，叫做饑餓的 獅子 ，我去嘗試了一下，結果7美元的美食居然吃的我飽飽的。
I slept awfully well, and woke up to a beautiful day. Lusaka, like Nairobi and Dar Es Salaam, has little interest for foreign travellers. The only thing I could see myself doing was going to the mall. I had a lovely breakfast, and took a walk in the local street. I found out that the mall was quite nice, actually VERY NICE. It was definitely better than my local mall back in Canada, anf it features 1 dollar ice cream!!! Seriously! 9 kwacha for a cone? sign me the fuck up! I think I just fell in love… They also have this KFC-like restaurant called Hungry Lion. I ordered a huge combo meal, and it ended up only costing me 7 dollars, and oh my sweetcorn it was great.
我也非常欣賞他們的超市,不但非常的乾凈整潔，還非常便宜。我覺得我的期待值實在是太低了，所以這樣子現代化的商場真的著實讓我驚訝。永遠不應該因為一個國家很窮就認定了他們的生活質量也是非常差的，我就覺得這個商場甚至比我在 加拿大 的商場還要好呢！
I also greatly enjoyed their supermarket. It was l avis hly decorated, and I think it surpassed my local Whole Foods with literally 1/10 of the price. All kinds of local fresh produce and international imports lined the well-decorated aisles. Homestyle bread, jam, salad, pasta, and cured meats all were made in store with some very friendly prices. I cannot praise the supermarket more, as you can see, and I guess it has something to do with expectations. Never underestimate a country just because you have never heard of it. Some of the less developed countries have much better facilities than USA or Canada in a lot of cases that I have encountered, and this mall in Zambia is the prime example!
之後我去了公交總站，需要去買一張去列文斯通的車票。5個多小時的車程只要十塊錢美金。整個站頭上全是各種商店，小販，還有很多推銷巴士票的人。再去了超市買了些東西之後，我回到了青旅享受了一杯啤酒。
I paid a visit to the bus terminal as well. I needed a ticket to Livingstone, and I got one for under 10 dollars for this 5 hour ride. The entire terminal was a huge hodgepodge of bus, shops, people hustling, and just endless touts circling around me like pesting flies. I ended the day with more food in the supermarket and some beer from the bar in my hostel.
起床之後便是準備打包前往列文斯通的巴士的時候了。十點半我向 盧薩卡 道別，這幾天很悠閑，也給我沖滿了電，以便應對之後的冒險。
I woke up to pack and prepare for my bus ride down to Livingstone, and I boarded the bus right on time. At 10:30, the bus slowly rolled out the station, and I waved Lusaka goodbye. It was a relaxing time, thanks, Lusaka.
I arrived at the township of Livingstone around 3 pm. I went to the Jollyboys hostel and found nothing much to do besides hanging out by the cool pool and drinking expensive drinks. I decided to go for dinner because food=life>friends>basically everythinh else in life. I think all the delicious food I have not eaten is basically the only thing that supports me through those cold, lonely nights.
我來到了一家非常擁擠的餐廳，這個有名的小地方有一個很好玩的露天院子以供食客們擺放餐桌吃飯，我看了看今日的特別菜單，發現今天居然有羚羊 漢堡 ，抱著一個吃貨一定要唱遍全世界亂七八糟東西的精神，我果斷點了一個。要知道那些羚羊長什麼樣，請到我的 肯尼亞 篇去看看。
I arrived in a crowded restaurant. I was led to a table in the lovely backyard, and a candle was swiftly lightened up as light was dimming from the horizon. I looked at the menu, and saw the "daily special" billboard hanging by the counter. It said:"daily special: impala burger". Impala? HECK YEAH. Just in case you have not realized what it is, just look into my first part of around the world travel in Kenya. It has a lot of game viewing and of course, shows you how an impala looks like. I have the holy duty to try everything, especially food, so I had to order this.
很快夜晚降臨了，由於是冬天，我很快便感覺到了絲絲涼意，貼心的服務生們很快拿出了一個又一個火盆，一個桌子給一個，大的桌子給三個，而我的桌子一個也不給。單身狗的單身狗糧吃的真的又冷又寂寞啊。。。。
While it was not windy, it quickly got chilly. (let me remind you it was in the dead of winter) The wind swept through the garden like me sweeping through a cheap Asian buffet, and I was shivering even before my drink arrived. The staff started bringing out fire baskets to be put underneath the tables. Every other table quickly got one, and some big tables even got three, but I did not. Before I could think too much, I got my impala burger, and suddenly nothing in this world was a problem.
很快我便把那個 漢堡 吞下了肚子，然後在毫無照明的漆黑夜晚之中走回了家，早上我起來趕上了前往 維多利亞 大瀑布的免費青旅班車，由於這個瀑布是 津巴布韋 和 贊比亞 的邊界，所以要看到完整的瀑布兩邊需要到兩個國家去才行。但是我看到了這種不講道理的簽證條款，想想還是算了吧。去 津巴布韋 ，不論是多久，都要付50美金簽證費，然後回到 贊比亞 的時候，還要重新入境，付50美元簽證費，去你的傻叉 非洲 國家，只要錢也沒想過為了多收簽證費你們不知道放置了幾十倍幾百倍的游客入境消費，撿了芝麻丟了西瓜。
I quickly devoured the burger, then walked the five blocks back home. I woke up to catch the hostel's free shuttle to Victoria Falls proper. The falls sit at the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. So in order to see all of it, you have to cross the border which is a hassle as the nearest border crossing is a solid hour drive. What deterred me was the horrendous visa fee. You have to pay $50 to enter Zimbabwe, even for 2 hours, and you have to pay $50 to re-enter Zambia even though you literally left that very morning. Maybe next time when I am visiting Zimbabwe, I guessed.
巴士把我們放在了國家公園大門，正好路上和我一起同行的還有前幾天認識的Tiffany和Katrina,一個 美國 姑娘，和一個 挪威 女生，Tiffany比較不像我們其他背包客，想要享受瀑布旁邊的五星級賓館的奢華早餐，於是我只能和Katrina一起付了20美金進入國家公園。我們早就聽到了瀑布隆隆震耳欲鳴的響聲了，也看到了從數從另一端冉冉升起的百元，本地語言裡面這個瀑布的名字就叫做“雷煙”。幾分鐘之內激動無比的我便走到了瀑布的旁邊。
The bus dropped us off at the entrance to the park. On the way I was lucky enough to re-connect with Tiffany and Katrina whom I briefly talked with the previous day. Tiffany (from Colorado) wanted to enjoy herself at a luxury hotel by the edge of the falls, as she had already been to the park before. Katrina (from Bodø, Norway) and I then paid $20 to enter the Victoria Falls National Park. Before we enter, we could already hear the crashing sound and see the rising smoke from the falls. In the local language, it has the name that literally means “smoke that thunders”. Within a quick walk, we were beside the edge in no time. Katrina took a great shot of me along with my excitement.
真的是太壯觀了，世界上沒有任何辭藻可以修飾這個瀑布的偉大景象，濃濃的濕氣遇上了 非洲 的教養，形成了兩道彩虹。
It was absolutely amazing, and there is little that I can say to justify its might. The moisture met the sun, creating a double rainbow.
水勢實在是太強烈了，在河面上50多米的我們還是感覺到貌似天空一直在下著雨。
The water clashed with rocks so vehemently that caused the rising moisture to become some kind of constant drizzle even 50 meters above the surf ace .
Katrina and I explored further, and the fascinating features just kept our eyes on two sides. The waterfall comes down into a gap in the Earth from one side, which stretches from Zambia to Zimbabwe for more than 500m. It was basically a wall of waterfalls when we viewed from the other side. It then falls into the canyon, and there is an opening on the other side, making the water flow a T shape.
It was truly a marvel to behold, a wall of water falling into the deep canyon just a few dozen meters from you, like the sky is falling along with its clouds, its stars, its thunder and its linghtning. I had not felt such fear of this world for such a long while. This is the kind of things that makes you humble, and willing to learn from mother nature.
There was also a railway bridge that spanned across the deep trench, and it was built more than 100 years ago.
之後咱倆決定下到瀑佈下面去感受它的美麗，但是在下去的路上，很不幸，殺出了一群陳咬狒狒擋住了去路，很大，很大的狒狒。
We then decided to go down to the depth of the canyon, and view the waterfall from beneath. However, before we could hike down, the path was conjested with a clusterfuck of baboons. Yes, baboons, big, scary baboons. And they were doing something that humans should feel ashamed of.
他們終於吃完了垃圾，放行我們前行，但是這個很陡的山坡上面全是他們的領地，而有幾隻狒狒非常的好奇，很想看看我們背包裡面是啥，於是乎，幾隻很強壯的公狒狒試圖著搶奪我們的包，但是我如英雄救美一般保護著Katrina(的包)，他們終於在十分鐘之後放棄了。一隻狒狒很喪氣地坐在了長椅子上面，於是乎我用了一個自拍去安慰它。
After they were done with the garbage, we finally started our descent. It was a steep climb, and we were surrouunded by baboons: it was their territory. They seemed to take a particular interest in backpacks like Leonardo DiCaprio’s interest in tall blonde girls. (seriously, look it up, I will wait here, I am not going anywhere) It was a crazy struggle with them, because they had some incrdible skills sneaking up on us, and they were outrageously strong. I eventually refused long enough so that they gave up. One of the males sat on a bench, quite vanquished. I sat down with him, and comforted him with a selfie.
來到了下麵之後，我們才發現河流的一個急轉彎把大部分的瀑布都擋住了，所以唯一看得到的只是一些很壯觀的橋景而已啦。打開 三明 治包，坐下來看著湍急的河水，一起享受一頓野餐吧~！
The bottom was the entrance of a river into the major falls. The bend, however, perfectly blocked the waterfall. As a result, we only had some great views of the bridge from below. Katrina and I sat down in the rock pile, quietly watched the feirce water blow by.
在回去的路上，我們聽到了三個女生此起彼伏的尖叫聲，原來一隻大狒狒攻擊了她們，把他們的包都拽走了！東西掉的滿地都是，剩下的都跑到了狒狒的嘴裡面去了。
After a while, we returned back up and wanted to go back to the hostel. However, on our way back, we heard the traumatic screaming of three girls: the baboons attacked and tore apart their backpacks like I tear apart chicken tenders! Stuffs were scattered all around, and the rest were deep inside the baboons’ mouth. Well, apparently they were not a fan of that selfie.
回到鎮子上之後便是下午茶的時間了，本來要去看的一家7-11（著名連鎖便利店）結果發現是山寨的，裡面其實是專門賣各種酒的專賣店！傍晚時分就是要去贊比茲河上面游船晚餐的時間啦~！到了之後大家才發現，與其說這是一條船，還不如說這是一個漂浮的平房。
Upon returning from the park, we had some great meals in one of the cafes. We originally wanted to go into the store that was dubbed “7-11” and found out it only had alcohol! A 7-11, FULL OF ALCOHOL!!! Let that sink in for a while. After the food, we got ready for a boat ride~! woohoooooooo~! We were picked up by a bus and led to the Zambezi riverside. It was more like a floating shack with an engine than a boat.
Above: probably the best job ever, barbeque artist on a boat in Africa
在船上大家都撒開了性子吃喝玩樂，反正酒也是無限自助的，河裡面全是河馬，岸上也有好多大象，甚至還有一條鱷魚游過了我們身邊！
We had a great dandy ol’time on the boat with unlimited alcohol, food and fun. A lot of hippoes could be seen around the area, and elephants as well, we even saw a crocodile swimming right next to us!
夕陽漸漸地往西邊的河面沉下，只留下了一群飛鳥在烤肉的裊裊青煙之下歸巢。
The sun slowly descended into the forested horizon, leaving a flock of birds flying back to their nests.
我們在 贊比亞 的夕陽下結束了這一天，我們喝完最後一瓶啤酒的時候，小船也停靠在了碼頭上面，一個篝火冉冉升起，這一美妙的 維多利亞 大瀑布之行也在木頭慢慢燃燒的聲音之下結束了。
We slowly finished our beer and our ride, and quickly the beautiful day ended. The boat, uh I mean the shack, slowly docked and a bonfire was set up. It was a great day, as the smoke of the fire slowly faded in the starry sky…
第二天早上，我加入了另外一群人來到了一個本地的小村莊，結果發現另外的三個妹子就是昨天被狒狒偷襲的那幾個受害者：Sara, Sneade和Claire，她們仨爭先恐後的向我描述了昨天的情況到底有多麼的驚險，當然也沒有忘記往裡面添一些油加一點醋，說好十點青旅來接我們的車子十點多好幾分鐘才來，結果我們發現居然是一輛本地選舉的競選車。這輛 新民 主戰線的競選車配備了 非洲 競選的必須配件，當然你先得知道 非洲 是怎麼競選的。這裡每個黨派都買了好多 皮卡 車，然後把後面裝上超大號的擴音器，只要在移動的時候他們就不停地瘋狂播放專門為這個競選人寫的動次打次韻律超強的歌，每一首都是贊頌這個人的領導能力以及他的個人魅力的。然後車裡面的每一個人，包括了司機，都要穿上競選用的T恤然後把整個身體探出窗外瘋狂揮舞旗子。。。話會正傳，我們的司機對使用這公家車載我們去村莊非常的抱歉，但是我們一點也不覺得，我勒個去我們可以做這裡本地有名的大輪子尖叫花痴擴音器3000了！！！！在司機大叔把三個喇叭馬力全開之後，整個車子立刻進入了振動模式，我還把頭探了出去，一邊揮著旗子一邊大叫著競選標語，我和這個候選人八竿子都打不著關係，我也完全不知道他是保守派還是進步派，但是我才管不著呢！
Next morning, I joined another group to tour the local village. I happened to join the three girls who fell victim to the baboons yesterday: Sara, Sneade, and Claire. They re-iterated to me how scary the situation was, and added a little more “excitement.” We waited for the pickup at 10, but at 10:10, some guy showed up with a car we never expected. It was a campaign car for the New Democratic Front. If you don’t know how they campaign for votes in Africa, you are about to have a treat. They drive around with big pickup trucks with huge loudspeakers mounted at back. They play songs specifically written for the party and the candidate, telling how good they are and why you should vote them. Then have everyone dressed up in the party t-shirts, and everyone sticks his/her body out waving flags and shouting slogans, yes, that includes the driver. Back to the story. He apologized profusely of using a politics car to send us to the village, but we were exactly opposite of that: we were goddamn excited. We asked him to turn on the loudspeakers, and the entire van instantly entered earthquake mode. I even stuck my head out of the sky window, flying a banner, and screamed “VOTE OMAR!!!!!” I had 0 idea who Omar was, what his policies were, what position he was running, etc. But as you can see, I cannot give more fucks.
一行人非常有形的來到了村落裡面，我那時候已經把整個標語當做風衣一樣披在了身上，以190分貝的聲音尖叫著“奧馬爾！！！！”我很肯定很多村民這輩子再也看不到這樣子的情形了，那之後一個村裡面的人帶著我們走了一圈，示範了他們是怎麼去水井取水的，我幫他們打了一些水，而女生們則洗了不少盤子和碟子。
We arrived into the village in style, with me wearing the banner like a cape, with music screaming “OMARRRRRRR” in 190 decibels. I say we got everyone’s attention. We were then led through the village and given a tour. We saw how they get water from underground hand pumps, and we helped some kids wash dishes and plates.
之後我們拜訪了他們的種植園地，和放牧的動物們，甚至還有一個給孩子們免費教育的私塾，由於國家的公立學校需要一年60美金的學費，而絕大部分人又出不起這麼昂貴的學費，所以窮人的孩子沒有教育，就會繼續延續下去窮養窮的惡性循環。而這所私塾就是為了打碎這個歷史的車輪而設立的。
We saw the plantations, and animals they herd. They even took us to an initiative which had the goal of providing children with free education. The public education system demands 60 dollars a year, which a lot of families cannot afford, and the children go uneducated, and continue the poverty cycle. This free home-run school is aimed at stopping it.
我們的最後一站是一個本地人的家，她會親手在自家門口幫我們做一頓可口的本地午餐，其實家裡面根本沒有廚房，所以她們也只好在家門口做飯了。她的房子已經算是村裡面最好的了，至少她的是磚塊壘起來的，幾乎所有其他房子都是泥巴和茅草做的，有專門的人做房子框架然後有專門的人糊泥巴上去，然後你就有可以最多支撐五年的一個小房子啦，垮掉了之後重新造一個唄。女主人做了一個非常類似於我在 乞力馬扎羅 上面和背夫吃的那種玉米糊糊(請見上一篇游記)，加上了一個很鹹的菜下飯，啊不對，下糊糊。它是一種菠菜加鹽水然後混上大量的敲碎花生做出來的鬼東西，但是真的好好吃~！我們狼吞虎咽把一鍋全部吃掉了之後和女主人討論了關於 贊比亞 現狀的一些瑣碎事情，和她的兩歲女兒道別了之後依依不捨的離開了。
We eventually ended up at a local’s house, and the owner would prepare us a local meal right in front of her doorstep: because there is no kitchen in the house. Her house was already one of the best in the village: it is made of bricks. Almost every other house is made of mud and straws. Usually you pay some men to make a straw frame and a satched roof, and then pay some women to fill the frame up by mud. Wala, you have a house that can last 5 years! When it collapses, you do it all over again. This house made of bricks, however, can last a lot longer. She cooked a similar starch-glue made of corn that I tried with Frank on my Kilimanjaro trek. She also made a dish that is salty to accompany with it, just like what the porters did on the mountain. It is spinach with tomatoes in salty water, added with crushed peanuts. It was SO GOOD. We all devoured the dish along with the corn starch, and talked about the situation in Zambia and the village. We waved goodbye to her 2-year-old daughter as we left.
一行人回到青旅之後便圍坐在了一起說笑，Fiagra, Katrina, Claire, Sneade, Sara全部都到齊了，我甚至還認識了一個過幾天就要去 上海 工作的 德國 小伙Till，大家打罵開玩笑，啤酒一瓶接著一瓶的開，夜也漸漸地越入越深了。。。
We got back and talked a lot. Fiagra, Katrina, Claire, Sneade, Sara were all there, and it was definitely a great circle of conversation. I also got to know a German named Till, who would work in Shanghai for a while! We talked and laughed and joked and argued, and the night quietly fell upon us…
早起之後我打車來到了列文斯通國際機場，我不想和那群熟睡的異地親人說再見，所以這隻是一個暫停而已，再次相聚的時候，我們繼續聊。。。辦理完了登機手續之後，很快我坐上了列文斯通前往 約翰內斯堡 的 大英 航空商務艙，對的， 大英 航空有來回 約翰內斯堡 和 贊比亞 以及 津巴布韋 的航班。2個小時的商務艙感覺真的是不夠呢。
I woke up early and took a taxi to the Livingstone Airport. I didn’t want to say goodbye to all these great people, and I chose to let the conversation hang in there, so that we can continue when we meet again. Quickly I arrived at the airport, and checked in to my business class flight to Johannesburg, operated by British Airways. Yes, BA operates flights within South Africa and between Zimbabwe/Zambia and South Africa. The flight was only 2 hours, and business class made it even smoother.
