北非日記 —— 摩洛哥(中)
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鏤空的銅拱圈。
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行宮門前的寬廣大道。
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行宮這一側的大門警備森嚴,不允許抵近拍照。
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離開行宮前往老城。
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遠處宣禮 塔下 面的一大片,就是在菲斯古城中的世界上的第一座大學 卡拉 維因大學所在地。
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菲斯也是 摩洛哥 國土上最早建立的阿拉伯城市,已有2800多年的歷史,是 摩洛哥 四大皇城中最古老的一座。在 摩洛哥 人心中,菲斯是他們的驕傲。 走近布日盧藍門(Bab Bou Jeloud),一眼就看到了它醒目的菲斯藍,一下就將你帶回到那個熱鬧非凡的年代,跨過這道門就一步跨越了千年…
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據說很早以前菲斯就因盛產這種以藍色為主色調的 馬賽 克而聞名於世,於是,相對於 馬拉喀什 的“紅”、 梅克內斯 的“黑”、 拉巴特 的“白”,就有了“菲斯藍”的美稱,有人說,它是菲斯獨有的藝術品,而Fes blue甚至已成了這種“藍色”的專有名詞。
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更有意思的是,城門外側是“菲斯藍”,內側呢?鑲嵌的 馬賽 克花紋圖案幾乎與外側一模一樣,但整個色調則呈現出一種淡淡的綠色——“伊斯蘭綠”。
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城市 LOGO 歡迎詞中已經有中文啦。
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一進大門就是當地的集市,巷子旁的牆壁上懸掛著國王穆罕默德六世的圖像。穿過這段玄關似的安靜前廊,鱗次櫛比的小店,耳邊商販的叫賣聲,帶著濃重當地生活氣息的市井之情撲面而來。
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那一條條鋪就著被時間打磨得閃亮光滑、早已坑坑窪窪的石板路,斑駁的牆壁,窄窄的小巷真真實實的呈現在你面前,等待你去丈量。
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建於1350—1357年的布-伊南 古蘭經學院。
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導游指著這家手工藝店里牆上掛著的、剛纔參觀的皇室行宮銅製大門的照片,說明這家店是唯一被允許懸掛此照片的,因為他們是皇家御用製作銅製大門的手工藝傳人。
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店內各種銅製品琳琅滿目。
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摩洛哥 獨立後,他們失去了只為皇室御用的條件,為了生計也製作民用製品,但其工藝和皇室技藝傳承人的品牌卻是響噹噹的,唯此一家。