寒冬之前,深秋之後(瑞典、挪威、冰島)【2015.10.16-10.27】
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/0D/52/wKgBs1Z6CYaAPyhzAAS8dF_2slM46.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/0D/A1/wKgBs1Z6CgyAM6cDAARgs_OfnF075.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://n4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/5F/22/wKgBs1Z6s3eAYNOMAAgzPOyss-A33.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/0D/C7/wKgBs1Z6CpGAW2JSAAEbM-SUVQs11.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fh%2F150%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
我是快中午的時候出門的(上午趕作業來著TT),主要是為了趕著去看 挪威 皇宮(Det Kongelige Slott)前的換崗儀式。不過因為從我住的地方走去皇宮會經過工藝博物館(Kunstindustrimuseet),所以就順便去逛了一下。(工藝博物館、國家美術館(Nasjonalgalleriet)、現代美術館(Museet for samtidskunst)以及建築博物館(Nasjonalmuseet – Arkitektur)是通票——在同一天內買了一張門票就可以參觀這四間博物館,所以記得保留好門票。)
工藝博物館一共四層,一樓是臨時展,二樓是現代主義興起之後的設計,三樓的展品是家居裝修一類的,四樓是時尚和玻璃瓷器。大概花個半小時到一小時能逛完。
因為有了再 斯德哥爾摩 看換崗的經驗,我看時間快一點了就趕緊奔赴 挪威 皇宮,準備占領個好位置看換崗。然而……並沒有這個必要,根本就沒有什麼來看換崗——感覺不超過30個人吧。當然,看了換崗你就知道為什麼了,因為並沒有什麼特別精彩的,就是最基本的儀式。不過還是傳個視頻讓大家感受一下 挪威 皇宮換崗的朴素。
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/5F/93/wKgBs1Z6tJaAF89xAAlp0X7FbxU23.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p3-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/5F/99/wKgBs1Z6tJ-AZqOwAA25NjOmyqA17.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
皇宮本身也挺朴素的,但因為建造在一個山丘之上,所以從這裡往城市方向看還是挺有氣魄的。可惜的是,皇宮旺季對外開放,我去的時候已經是淡季了,所以沒能進去參觀。(去 北歐 甚至 西歐 反季節旅游總會碰到這個問題,或者是開放時間大大變短,或者就直接關閉了。)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/60/32/wKgBs1Z6tkqAZdNIAAUVMxdtpTs09.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/60/34/wKgBs1Z6tk6AXFpuAAWOEviplNo17.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p3-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/60/48/wKgBs1Z6toGAQckDAAZA0S996yg50.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
相較而言,皇宮所在的皇宮花園(Slottsparken)才是驚喜。很大就不說了,關鍵深秋時節,整個色彩特別美好,可能反而比旺季的時候更美。
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/60/B8/wKgBs1Z6t66AUEobABIgnkMBhGA27.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/61/26/wKgBs1Z6uMuAJS0HAAZ_igKvjyw47.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/61/27/wKgBs1Z6uNCAM1HuAAXsQL6mAn066.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/62/62/wKgBs1Z6vAeARF_KAAhmh88mH-Q74.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/62/69/wKgBs1Z6vBaAbO4wAA44t_jCDho52.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/62/6E/wKgBs1Z6vCCARCZ8AAl1HYQ_-J836.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
建築博物館不遠就是阿肯修弗斯城堡(Akershus Festning). 因為是淡季加之傍晚(城堡所在的公園關門比較晚,但建築很早就關了),沒有進去城堡,但看看城堡的外景、在所在的公園裡逛逛也是不錯的。
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BB/6B/wKgBs1aABNKAcNWRAAbipui3KaY11.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BB/97/wKgBs1aABW6APJGbAAvjXfoVXkI65.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BB/B3/wKgBs1aABbeAa90VAAQN1q0Hwvs11.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BB/CD/wKgBs1aABiWAbgOyABESiCpsD6A56.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BB/DD/wKgBs1aABmOASWPGAAfYq7JR-G816.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
走出城堡景點區從西往東沿著所在的“半島”的邊緣散步,一路的日落景象盡收眼底。
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BB/F7/wKgBs1aABriAFL8FAATQEEz_zqw35.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BC/61/wKgBs1aACAeAKFr2AAYFap7LJDg27.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BC/7B/wKgBs1aACE-AVidIAAb2H9VGaW815.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
奧斯陸 的最後一站是維格蘭雕塑公園(Vigelandsparken), 也是在 奧斯陸 唯一一個需要買張公交票才能到達的景點。( 奧斯陸 公交票的有效時間好像是是70分鐘左右,所以算好時間,可以一張公交票同時搞定回程。)公園很大,不過游客主要就在正中的大路上參觀即可。公園裡的雕塑都是維格蘭的作品,均是生命百態。
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://n4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BD/3B/wKgBs1aACw2AXoryAAYdjnFYSY830.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BD/3D/wKgBs1aACxWAYJOiAAxinStFPr035.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BD/3F/wKgBs1aACxmAJkrYAATRPh2-ozg51.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BD/41/wKgBs1aACx2AVYukAAVw5hGlI2U79.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://p3-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/BE/F0/wKgBs1aAEtOAUWQKAAVR_S6-JR093.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
在 挪威 的第二天起了個大早趕去 卑爾根 方向的火車——這也是無數攻略里強烈推薦的一條鐵路線。很多人推薦坐右邊,我倒覺得差不多,在不同的路段里,兩邊各有千秋。而且因為淡季,火車上也沒坐滿,所以看到哪邊風景好,我就坐到哪邊去了:)不過,整條線本身就是走高海拔地區,加上是秋天,景色有點慘淡,直到到了最高點看到下雪的時候,我才釋懷了——沒白坐。
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/CB/58/wKgBs1aAl_WAW5DgAA1xELzhXxo55.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![北歐自助遊攻略](https://b4-q.mafengwo.net/s9/M00/CB/6B/wKgBs1aAmGiAL_F-AAaEBczBrk407.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)