【版圖】(220)—【星月迷途】(土耳其)
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梅烏拉那於1273年12月17日逝世,就安葬在 孔亞 城內旋轉苦修者們祈禱所用的清真寺內,後來那些重要的蘇菲教徒也 都安 葬在這裡,他們的石棺上都擺放著他們生前所用的大頭巾,這是精神權利的象徵。
由這座對於蘇菲教派來說最重要的清真寺改建而成的梅烏拉那博物館,擁有一座巨大的綠色尖頂和數座高聳的宣禮塔,博物館中還陳列著《瑪斯維納》原稿、先知穆罕默德的一撮鬍鬚,還有世上最袖珍的《古蘭經》等,引得無數信徒和游客前來瞻仰和朝聖。
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在 孔亞 匆匆而過,突厥人建立的塞爾柱王朝早已遠去,但即使是故紙堆中的寥寥記載和早已毀棄的殘垣斷壁,依然構成一個民族的精神內涵,曾經強盛一時的帝國,不論沉淪到何種地步,血脈中仍然保留著強者的尊嚴,以及復興的希望。
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安塔利亞 是世界著名的度假勝地,主打千年港口老城和 地中海 風光,尤其吸引那些每年一大半黑天一小半白天的 北歐 人士,而對於天天住在家裡看大海的本人來說,無論多麼風騷的海景都不能引起我的興趣,要是去海邊或是海島游玩,無外乎就是住酒店和看MM兩種目的。各位準備跟我同去海島的MM們註意了,還不乖乖到我碗里來!千里迢迢來到 安塔利亞 ,酒店也就是星級酒店的常規款式,沙灘一般般,天氣一般般,而且伊斯蘭國家也沒有噴火美女可以看,所以逛老城就成為我唯一的追求。
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日出之前,從擁有上千年曆史的哈良德門進入 安塔利亞 老城,正在發自內心地感慨歲月之變遷和歷史之滄桑,卻迎面碰上一群帶太陽帽穿防曬服不分男女都燙著頭的 韓國 夕陽紅旅行團,仿佛一頭闖進了菜市場,氣氛一下子就垮掉了有木有,那種威嚴肅穆的歲月感一下子就蕩然無存了有木有?
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早上的老城空無一人,店鋪沒有開門,廝混整夜的游客還沒有起床,一場久違的夜雨之後,走到哪裡都是水汽蒸發後的潮熱感覺。清真寺的宣禮塔開始了清晨的吟唱,對於每一個穆斯林來說,這又是平凡一天的開始。
繁花似錦,綠蘿清碧,曲巷通幽,跟著一位早起散步的老者,慢慢走到老城的港口。港口裡泊滿了專供游客出海的游船,船首像不是海王就是傑克•斯派羅,要麼就是美杜莎,大航海時候的船首像是為了祈禱平安或是恐嚇敵人,現在的船首像是為了招攬游客,完完全全就是海洋公園的既視感。人們都說地理大發現那樣波瀾壯闊的時代已經遠去了,對於好奇心旺盛的人類來說,現在的世界已經沒有了樂趣。實際上,人類未來的命運在星辰大海,註意,不是星辰和大海,而是星辰的大海,每一顆星辰只是大海裡的一顆水珠而已,驕傲的人類才剛剛起步。
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朝陽 在醒來,老城在醒來,人們在醒來,萬物在醒來,一切都是想象中應該就有的樣子,這裡就是 安塔利亞 ,這裡就是浪漫的 土耳其 ,一眼穿心。
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