滑鐵盧的夕陽和雨季的晚高峰【倫敦/湖區/愛丁堡】
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倫敦 的地鐵是真的完全沒信號,這程度和早幾年的 北京 地鐵有的一拼,只有車輛到站的時候能微弱地,集中地收一下前1-2分鐘收到的所有消息。零零星星在車廂中看書的行人,也都在車輛到站的一刻,匆匆拿出手機刷著,等車輛關門啟動的時候,再繼續翻著報紙。這麼比起來, 上海 地鐵的花生WIFI簡直要給一萬個贊。回過頭來想想,如果 上海 也可以做到地鐵完全屏蔽信號,那廣大“網癮患者”也不至於被網絡公眾號定性為被手機偷走了全部生活吧。
*千萬!要預定!有電梯的!地鐵附近!的房!
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除了信號不好,地鐵的換乘設計也受到了很大局限,可能是因為年代久遠,陸陸續續有新的地鐵建成,明顯感覺好多老站還保留著強烈的工業革命的痕跡。冷硬的金屬扶手欄桿,發黑暗淡的弧形穹頂,和極富年代感的瓷磚牆面,都在和行人講述著他們走過了太多年的故事。故事太多的時候,他們始終不能友好的面對新時代的人們,很多老站完全不設置電梯,就像是代溝難以刮越。這地鐵對於拖家帶口的人來說,簡直是噩夢。好在紳士的 英國 男人,大多會幫助姑娘們搬行李,顯得這冷冰冰的地鐵,有了那麼一點溫度。
*穿過碎片大廈的街
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良好的自洽能力,是不讓自己陷入僵局的很好地方式。這種自我約束又自由發展的態度,正體現了 倫敦 此時的樣子,像是實用主義的另類回歸。
但凡規模龐大的國際性都市,多少都會有矛盾性的存在。 上海 是這樣, 巴黎 是這樣, 倫敦 也是。當你坐在碎片大廈樓下的PRET喝著咖啡避雨,看著窗外匆忙路過的,甚至駕著電腦邊走邊開電話會的,你會一直被提醒這是個不存在休息的世界。而一旦離開高樓櫛比的行政區域,真實而緩慢的 倫敦 會再一次把你送回這個真實的世界。
這個真實的世界有著一點古板,和固執,冰冷的看時間流逝。地鐵站陳舊的設施和站台就像是被上個世紀丟棄的遺跡,一動不動的用它的固執來接待新世界的人們,不帶一丁點要進步的意思。而每一個地鐵口,就像是一個新世界的大門,當你踏出的那一刻,你可能看到儘是美食的Borough Market,熙熙攘攘的街角咖啡店,和熱鬧的博物館和充滿了塗鴉的街,也可能看到的擁擠的廣場,和高喊著口號的激進環保主義示威者們。他們格格不入地存在,但又平衡地與之相處。
讓你看得到他們的教條,也看得到他們內心期待釋放的自由。
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