撿與被撿的雲南紀實之旅——1.3萬字,344幅照片,蜂首我等你
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到了 麗江 ,想起他曾經推薦的小酒館——我在這裡等著你,導航走進來後找位子坐下,駐場依然是他來時的那個小伙,同角度拍了張照片留念,有種“拿著你給的照片,走過你來時的路”的感覺。和古城其他夜店不同,這個小館兒沒有哐哐哐的勁爆舞曲,沒有晃得人頭昏眼花的探燈,也沒有光著大白腿站在客人餐桌上賣弄的艷俗妹子,駐唱小伙一個人抱著吉他,在這個裝修風格好似上世紀80年代的屋子裡,哼唱著90年代初 香港 流行音樂,對極了我這個老古董的胃口。
一瓶百威下肚後,居然不覺漲肚,想起人家說心情好多喝兩杯也無妨沒準是真的,駐唱小伙休息時,我下一旅程的小伙伴終於出現了——王老師 和龍 哥。王老師得此雅號全因後面行程中各種pose擺拍指導如網紅街拍一樣潮,不過我還是喜歡稱呼這個90後顏值擔當的妹子為娜娜,一席白衣黑裙走進酒館兒的瞬間,看著就賞心悅目。龍哥在汽車領域算是行家,和嗜車如命的劉同學相見恨晚,把酒言歡。
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2、真的不建議 自駕 ,也許你技術真的很好,但是畢竟高原開車,路況不熟,莫要像文中那個小轎一樣,自己作死還要搭上別人的性命。
3、在馬蜂窩上包車或者找個6人品質團其實很好,行程不趕,專業司機,畢竟比玩嗨更重要的是安全。
10.6 差點成為被扎西娶了的卓瑪早上7:00,天氣冷得可以呼出哈氣,站在金虹路上,等著藏民扎西來接。坐在副駕,打量著這個藏民,頭戴皮帽,牛仔上衣里罩著一件半袖T恤,牛仔褲下一雙咖色牛皮靴,黑黝且粗糙的皮膚,健碩的體格頂著鍋蓋一樣的肚子。在藏區,人們只有名字沒有姓氏,孩子生下來七天就被送進寺廟,由活佛賜名,接著,在氂牛奶的喂養下長大,男性稱為扎西,女性稱為卓瑪,問候稱為“扎西德勒”。
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藏傳佛教僧人畢業後若不在寺廟任職,便要下山靠技能謀生,化緣這種事是不被允許的,也正因如此,藏傳佛教僧人都有一門手藝——唐卡,如果一副唐卡的製作需要一年時間,那僧人會根據這年的日常開銷對作品進行估價,當然還包含了唐卡製作的成本,因為染料通常包括藏紅花等比較貴重的天然染色體,因此天價唐卡,也就可以理解了。
藏區允許一夫多妻和一妻多夫,前者大概會為漢族男同胞所羡慕,至於後者,多是因為窮苦家庭有兩個兒子卻只娶得起一房媳婦,兄弟倆只能共享了。
“那要共處一室啊!”我瞠目結舌。
“藏民夫妻同房後,妻子多是趕在天亮前偷偷回到自己的房間睡覺。”
“那如果有了孩子怎麼知道是哥哥還是弟弟的呢,都要叫爸爸麽?”
“哥哥放牧時,媳婦和弟弟生活,反過來也一樣,所以算日子就知道了。”扎西解釋道:“親生的叫爸爸,另一個稱為叔叔。”
車子行駛到一條蜿蜒綿長的河流變,扎西搖下車窗示意我遠眺那條河流:“那裡面會有人的骸骨,我們稱為水葬。”經扎西介紹,藏民習俗中有塔藏、天葬、水葬、土葬、火葬,和漢文化不同,在藏民眼中,通常不得善終或是品性惡劣的人才會被火葬,至於最被廣為流傳的天葬,可以到松贊林寺遠眺天葬台。
見識過 虎跳峽 的洶涌氣勢,到依拉草原運氣就不怎麼好了。因為水大,依拉草原並沒有出現“風吹草低見牛羊”的美景,但卻完全不能扼殺一顆嗨爆的心,在高原的草地上瘋跑、瘋跳,後果是,半小時後,我有點蒙圈了,大概是腦供氧不足。
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