【行走意大利】從西西里島到托斯卡納,多少個世紀,多少種時光
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我想到的是這座城市真古老,
古老到你所見到的建築仿佛都有著幾百年的歷史,
古老到你穿梭在每個街巷或者角落裡而當你回頭總是能看見那一處處的古 羅馬 廢墟,
古老到除了在 梵蒂岡 城附近的那處大眾汽車的廣告牌就再沒有看見一處現代的戶外廣告,
古老到鴿子在你所經過的城市的每一處上空飛翔,
而我對這隨處都是的古老沒有絲毫的不喜歡,相反的,是很愛 羅馬 。
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巴勒莫 機場的小讓你沒有絲毫的局促, 地中海 的廣闊和如此接近讓你瞬間就意識到自己分明在遠離故土近萬公里之外,而眼前的這片土地熱情、陽光、美麗,又有著似乎與之格格不入的陰暗和落敗。
也正是這些,是我深深留戀 西西里 的地方。
巴勒莫 那些破舊斑駁的牆壁,灰暗的色彩,黑手黨的傳說,秩序又雜亂的房子排列著,縫隙中忽隱忽現的不著綠色的山。
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巴勒莫 在 意大利 語中的發音很重,就如同這座城市的過往、經歷一樣,也很沉重。
你很難想象眼中所見這繁華散盡的景象曾經是怎樣的無上光榮,那座外觀讓你感到驚嘆的主教堂,走進去會肅然起敬,會一下子內心 平和 舒緩;
馬西莫劇院,我們所熟知的大概是電影《教父》里他坐過的包廂,站在劇院里中心的點我說出了中文“你好”,聲音不只在空間里迴蕩,仿佛從心底裡蔓延開去又回到原點;
如果不是穿行的車流,我想站在四首歌廣場的中央,仰起頭,我相信這個視角一定比從廣場任何一個方位和角度都更能拍攝出或者觀察出那些建築的美麗 和美 好;
即使是短暫的一夜,我們就行走在那些街巷中,不刻意,隨處可見的教堂,隨處可見的斑駁牆壁甚至有牆皮脫落下來,隨處可見的游客和居民,他們悠然自如;
在一家很有格調的遠離主街道的餐廳里,吃了一頓美味的晚餐,風吹進來,牆上掛滿了畫,有一杯白葡萄酒,我想用愜意來形容那一切。
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那天從 羅馬 一路奔波到 巴勒莫 ,
放下行李,頂著大太陽,從馬西莫劇院,到大教堂,已然有些疲憊。
胡先生自己登頂,我在廣場的臺階上曬了許久的太陽,
偶爾幾個路人看著我奇怪的姿勢,
我卻不覺得有多尷尬,
在 意大利 的那幾日,習慣了席地而坐,臺階上、路邊,哪裡都好,
曬太陽。
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