【摩洛哥】夢幻天堂與殘酷現實同在
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走進撒哈拉,一望無際的黃沙,它比起我見過的塔克拉瑪乾和其他的小沙漠,它真的要壯觀很多,裡面行走,仿佛進入另一個時空。為了趕在太陽下山之前到達沙漠裡面看日落,我們幾乎下車就被安排上了駱駝,很多小團隊聚集在一起大概有十幾匹駱駝用繩子首尾連著,每兩匹用繩子再連一下,防止走散。騎駱駝真的是一件非常辛苦的事情,駱駝深一腳淺一腳搖搖晃晃的蹬的我屁股好痛。在我前面的是一個 英國 胖女生,我在後面看著她雙手緊扶著扶手,動也不敢動一下,不到半小時,她已堅持不住從駱駝背上下來快要休克的樣子,我們整支隊伍為了等她,最後只能在駱駝背上回頭看一眼日落,太陽隱去月亮高懸在天空上,整個撒哈拉是如此得安靜與神秘,我們的駝隊伴隨著月光終於在兩小時後到達了營地,一個平坦的沙丘底部。牽駱駝的柏柏爾人早就支好了帳篷,然後為我們準備好了傳統的庫斯庫斯,(一種雞肉加上胡羅卜塊,土豆塊煮成的食品,加上小米做主食。)
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“每想你一次,天上飄落一粒沙,從此形成了撒哈拉”真是佩服三毛把一個這麼堅苦的地方寫的這麼唯美浪漫。
昏昏沉沉到半夜一點,頭痛依然欲裂,周圍的人都熟睡了,我走出帳外仰望星空,夜晚的沙漠,天空與沙丘和我似乎完全溶為一體,黑暗中無法分清彼此,沒有尊卑貴賤,只有黑暗、死寂和自由的靈魂。夜晚的撒哈拉很冷,我拿出睡袋把自己裹上然後再披上毯子感覺還是有點兒冷,此時的我真覺得撒哈拉是個無關風月的地方。沒有浪漫和激情,一切的一切在這裡都被簡化為一個最純粹的信念----活著。回到帳蓬並調好三點鐘的鬧鐘,無論如何,我一定要嘗試一下星空的拍攝。
為了這次的星空拍攝,我還專門請教了幾位大師級的高手。但是,手賤的我在途中不小心把微信App給刪除了,我所有的資料都存在微信。營地里手機沒有任何信號網絡,僅憑著幾個依稀的數值記憶,架起三腳架,搗鼓了40分鐘,最終以失敗告終。
回到房間躺下不到一小時,半睡半醒間聽見柏柏人叫起床看日出要回程了,一陣手忙腳亂,大家臉都來不及洗,騎上駱駝,早晨的撒哈拉充滿了祥和的氣氛,太陽升起,氣溫迅速上升,嶄新的一天開始了。兩個多小時,所有人一路不停的叫喚著既痛苦又興奮,終於回到村莊。從駱駝背上下來發現兩隻小腿紅了一大片很多擦傷,屁股上的細胞神經感覺都死光了。真是痛並快樂著。
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此時的我正在前往下一站菲斯的路上,九個小時的車程,本來覺得坐長途車是一件很痛苦的事情,但是比起騎駱駝,真的不要太幸福。
(此篇文字是在坐車的途中用手機敲下的,是當時最真實的感受,我也不想在優化和豐富了。)
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放下行李的第一件事情就是買一杯橙汁解渴。不得不說,這裡的橙汁比 馬拉喀什 的純正多了,3個大橙子才能榨出一杯,滿滿的維C。
然後拿著橙汁走在9000多條瘡痍斑駁、迷宮般的巷道中,看著周圍陌生的一切,我很享受這種迷失的奇妙感覺。據說迄今為止,世界上還沒人能為菲斯古城的街道繪製地圖。所以谷歌在這裡也不怎麼管用。 摩洛哥 人看起來很有滄桑感,眼神犀利,一臉的故事。老城的生活方式延續了上千年,因為巷道逼仄,至今還是靠毛驢來運輸貨品,在老城裡,隨處都可以感受到當地的市井生活,店鋪里阿拉伯音樂、清真寺的傳召聲、穿大袍來去的伊斯蘭男女、各種香料的味道以及鋪天蓋地的五光十色的商品……這簡直就是《一千零一夜》現實版本,那種神秘和未知的味道,讓人迷惑,也讓人迷戀,這種獨特的氛圍,是那種現代商業化的旅游景點無法複製的,它還曾被 美國 雜誌評為全球最浪漫的十 大城 市之一。 雖然我沒有感受到它的浪漫,但我不得不承認,它確實很有意思並且充滿了神秘。
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