衝出亞洲——土耳其,巴爾幹半島三國
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早上看熱氣球有個小黑狗一直跟隨,到家門口我們回家了,想著他可能也去別地玩了,結果我倆收拾妥當奔車站,一開門,他還在外面等著,都等睡著了。
又跟我們走到車站,本來想給買根腸,但是只有士力架這類的,他在小賣部門口等我,什麼也沒等到走了。
十點一刻,過路車捎我們到nevsehir,竟然只有一個空座,煮茶的小孩好像給了司機25還是15。
從uchisar到nevsehir二十分鐘,然後等12:15到konya的車,三個小時。 土耳其 的大巴基本準點,準時發,路上進站也不多停留,上了人就走,三五分鐘。
其實我們也沒有什麼計劃,後半程都在海邊,但是直接到 費特希耶 有點遠,中間最好的中轉站是科尼亞konya。
(十八)保守的konyakonya是 土耳其 最古老的城市之一,12—13世紀塞爾柱的首都,是 土耳其 傳統的宗教文化中心。科尼亞以保守主義而聞名。到達konya第一感覺就是保守,體現在女性的穿著上最為明顯, 包頭 ,長褲。它曾是塞爾柱突厥人的首都,展現給你的是數量雖不多但非常漂亮的塞爾柱時建築。13世紀時,詩人魯米(Mevlana Rumi)在這裡創立了伊斯蘭教最主要的神秘儀式之一——旋轉托鉑僧。
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梅夫拉納博物館(Mevlâna Museum)是伊斯蘭蘇菲教派早期的文化與教育中心,寶綠色的尖頂在藍天之下,更加寧靜而神聖。進入館內,可以感受到當地人尊崇的氣氛,輕聲細語,神情專註。館內收藏了很多宗教文物,也介紹了蘇菲教徒的日常生活,對於認識伊斯蘭文化,這裡是個好地方。
九點開館,博物館不大,但是好多好多人,是一個非常有名的博物館。展品都是13,14世紀的東西。
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從博物館出來,試圖去巴扎轉轉,但是沒找到,發現了另一個清真寺,依然不讓我進,我在門口等內人,旁邊一個大爺示意我看看他瓶子里的東西,原來是水蛭,他搞這東西幹嘛。
Konya貓途鷹上排名第一的飯館, 阿裡 巴巴烤肉店,名字是我翻譯的,其實不是烤肉。只有一個菜,手抓羊肉捲餅,燉羊肉非常好吃,給半個洋蔥解膩,不過也不膩。廚師大爺非常有愛,假裝撈羊肉給我擺拍。
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(十九)領教了地中海氣候Side是以阿波羅神廟和歌劇院等 羅馬 時期建築著稱的,當然,我們來這裡並不是看這些,就是想找個安靜的海邊小城,但是事與願違,人特別多,天氣潮熱,一早起來就一身汗。
“ 錫德 (Side)”在當地語言中意為“石榴”,當地也有很多石榴造型的小碗,燭臺。
車站到老城有免費接駁車,好像就兩三個車,循環的往返,一車一車拉的全是游客,可見老城裡人多多。
城裡每條街全是商鋪,住宿很貴,agoda上只有兩家20歐的旅館,選擇side mara找過去。一樹繁花,掩映在三角梅叢中。上樓一個不太會英語的大爺接待,可以溝通多錢,20歐沒早飯,30歐含早,房間很乾凈。
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