Iceland——Land of Ice and Fire
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回到 阿克雷里 已經快晚上十點了,即使還沒落山,大多數餐廳已經關門或不再接客了,找了好幾家餐廳,終於找到一家還在營業的餐廳,striked,更幸運的是,不僅環境好味道也非常棒。餐前麵包是我至今吃過最好吃的餐前麵包,一份完全不夠,兩份也不嫌多,甚至想再來一份打包帶走。
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位於北緯66°的 胡薩維克 本就是古老漁港,也是 冰島 最早居民點之一,北大西洋暖流給這裡帶來了豐富的魚群,包括鯨魚和海豚,在這裡出海觀鯨能看到鯨魚的幾率高達97%,因此也被稱為“ 歐洲 鯨魚之都”。如果看到這裡你還在糾結要不要來,我想告訴你,一定要來!快艇平穩地行駛在海上,當你邊面對著遠處的雪山和陽光下藍得發亮的大海,聽著觀鯨員介紹周邊海域,突然觀鯨員喊"1 o'clock " 和我們"wow"的一聲,快艇極速朝1點鐘方向開去,到盡可能地接近鯨魚卻不至於傷害到它們的距離,觀看這些地球上最古老的巨型生物。經驗豐富的觀鯨員總能很快地看見鯨魚,並以幾點鐘方向為口令,每一次口令一響大家齊刷刷地望向一個方向,每一次看到鯨魚浮出水面甚至是大甩尾,每一次 成功 拍到鯨魚的照片,都能讓你激動不已。
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之前在懸崖上等半個小時才看到2只puffin,而這片海域里有成千上萬隻,在天上飛、海裡捕食、懸崖上小憩。快艇上能清楚地看到puffin捕魚的過程,作為一名潛水好手,你可能看到它一頭扎進海裡卻再也沒見到它上來了。
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上岸後脫掉厚厚的防凍服,在港口邊上的一家餐廳吃了午飯。
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Blonduos作為一個我們去斯奈山半島的休息站停留一晚,因為 胡薩維克 到的距離比較近,我們沒有延1號公路出發,而是沿著峽灣的公路前行,繞了一個彎,最終到達Blonduos。
這段峽灣風光,是所有沿路風景中讓我印象最深的。行駛在 盤山 沿海公路上,左邊是山,右邊是海,我坐在車后座的左邊,拍不到右邊的景色,這是我全程最最最遺憾的地方,我已經能想象如果此時此刻有一位印象派畫家,他會畫出怎樣一幅把光與色表現得淋漓精緻的畫作。我只能用文字畫下來了,在夕陽斜斜的光線的照射下,順著光的方向望去,先是離我們最近的嫩綠的草場,就在公路旁,上面依然散落著白色的草垛,遠處有幾間小紅房子,再往遠處看,是跳動著金色和藍色波光的大海,海的對岸是雪山,像觀鯨快艇上看到的雪山,山頂的雪順著凹槽流下來,比雪山跟高的,是淺藍色的天空。陽光是世界上最美的東西,所以畫家和攝影師總是在光線好的時候抄起家伙衝出門,多等一秒都覺得是浪費,而此時的夕陽正好。
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“真的太喜歡 冰島 的小紅房子和白草垛了, 冰島 人也會覺得它們可愛嗎?”
“我知道你為什麼喜歡紅色,因為紅色是 中國 的national colour,我喜歡紅色屋頂,也喜歡藍色的。”
“不是這個原因啦,我不是喜歡紅色,只是它們搭配在一起太美了!看起來,你好像覺得它們很平常呀。”
“Well, This is Iceland.”
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繼續往前會到達Snaefellsjoekull國家公園,開車在這個幾乎囊括了 冰島 所有地貌的公園裡繞了一圈後前往酒店(Loftleidir Hotel),到達酒店的時間比較早,還有幾個小時才到晚飯時間,在房間的陽臺喝茶看海,餓著肚子等待晚餐,時間過得格外的慢,決定開車到在陽臺上看到的海邊走走。
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