埃及——不僅有金字塔和神廟,還有那濃濃的煙火味
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師身人面像不同會通過光效變成圖坦卡蒙的頭像
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七點車終於來了,代理跟我們交待後就下車了。來旅館接我們的車已把其他客人接上了,出了 吉薩 ,再過就是10月初六城,再往前就是無盡的荒漠。開了三個多小時,才在一個油站停下來方便。買薯片10埃磅。經過五個多小時的車程,終於來到 巴哈利亞綠洲 。
我們來到代理哥哥開的酒店,先安排午餐。
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一切準備就緒,一行六人換了一臺歷史久遠的四驅車出發。司機是貝都因人,“貝都因”是阿拉伯語譯音,意為荒原上的游牧民、逐水草而居的人,他們習慣頭上圍著頭巾。
第一個點黑沙漠,車駛出綠洲,手機信號時有時無。
沒過多久,一座座曠野中拔地而起的黑色小沙丘不斷映入眼帘,下車後漫步黑黃相間的沙漠中,黑沙漠並非由之前想象的純黑色的沙粒組成,而是黃沙上面鋪滿了粗粗的黑沙石,就像沙丘上撒滿煤炭,黑沙漠千萬年前是火山,火山爆發後熔岩冷卻凝固而成的石英石,鋪在黃沙之上,使整個黑沙漠的錶面被一層黑色煤渣似的沙粒覆蓋著。
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來到Elaqapat Valley,司機讓我們下車走下去,而他開車在這接近40度的沙丘開下去。而下方是一座座風化的山丘。Elaqapat Valley是貝都因人把香料從沙漠深處運往 開羅 的必經之路,在這裡看落日應該是相當的美,只是雲太厚。
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天慢慢暗下來,太陽落下了地平線,慢慢又泛起了彩霞,司機急於找營地始終不肯停車。
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不遠處點上篝火,鋪上鐵架,上面就可烤雞, 埃及 人喜歡吃烤或炸的東西,烤還喜歡烤焦,焦還喜歡非常焦,於是鐵架上的那塊雞即使已是黑乎乎,但司機還是繼續烤。
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晚歺後,大家圍著篝火喝茶聊天跳舞。狐狸聞到香味也趕來了。
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雲多而且月亮正圓正亮,拍星空無望了。
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十點,司機分給每人一個墊子、一個睡袋,地點任君選擇,月亮又大又亮,睡的位置正對著,竟有些耀眼。
D4 黑白沙漠第二天,飛阿斯旺三點多醒來,天上雲依舊很多,日出也是無望,爬起來看看,大家都橫七豎八地睡在不遠處。
六點起來,天邊泛起淡淡的紅雲,趕緊拿相機到營地附近轉轉拍拍,其他人也陸續起來了,司機又開始生火做早餐了。
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